John Kent Odd Coat

[andreyb2]

Gentlemen,

Here is an odd coat John Kent cut for me.

I post it here for two reasons:

1) To present an example of Mr Kent's work -- which, to my knowledge, is not readily available on the forums.
2) To solicit your feedback -- it proved to be extremely useful in the past.

This is the first coat John made for me. Cloth is W Bill shetland tweed. We had two fittings during my 10 days stay in London. Then I got the coat by mail, and noticed a few small problems after a couple of wearings. They were all agreed upon and fixed during my second visit to London. So, in effect I had something similiar to three fittings.

One interesting thing is the shape of the breast pocket. Initially, I disliked it (considering it to be too "squarish"), and wanted it to be changed. After discussion with John, though, I decided to give it a chance, and try for a year -- with the agreement that he will change the pocket (make it narrower) if I would still want so. John believes that this shape is more "old and traditional", "like they were in the 30s".

Andrey

 

[ter1413]

It looks like you are carrying stuff in the pockets. If so, take it out and it will look pretty good IMO.

 

[a tailor]

Originally Posted by andreyb2

Gentlemen,

Here is an odd coat John Kent cut for me.

I post it here for two reasons:

1) To present an example of Mr Kent's work -- which, to my knowledge, is not readily available on the forums.
2) To solicit your feedback -- it proved to be extremely useful in the past.

This is the first coat John made for me. Cloth is W Bill shetland tweed. We had two fittings during my 10 days stay in London. Then I got the coat by mail, and noticed a few small problems after a couple of wearings. They were all agreed upon and fixed during my second visit to London. So, in effect I had something similiar to three fittings.

One interesting thing is the shape of the breast pocket. Initially, I disliked it (considering it to be too "squarish"), and wanted it to be changed. After discussion with John, though, I decided to give it a chance, and try for a year -- with the agreement that he will change the pocket (make it narrower) if I would still want so. John believes that this shape is more "old and traditional", "like they were in the 30s".

Andrey

just my opinion. all three patch pockets seem too big. they are over powering the coat.

 

[andreyb2]

Originally Posted by ter1413

It looks like you are carrying stuff in the pockets. If so, take it out and it will look pretty good IMO.

Yes, as far as I remember, a mobile phone in right one and an iPod in left one. One of the reasons why I decided to have patch pockets is to carry things around.

Originally Posted by a tailor

just my opinion. all three patch pockets seem too big. they are over powering the coat.

Maybe you are right... It is hard to imagine during initial order how the whole thing will look in the end... well, at least for me.

Do you think that smaller patch pockets (or at least smaller breast pocket) would help to mitigate this "overpowering" effect?

Andrey

 

[ter1413]

Originally Posted by andreyb2

Do you think that smaller patch pockets (or at least smaller breast pocket) would help to mitigate this "overpowering" effect?

Andrey

yes...and also not carrying things in the pockets. use the inside jacket pockets..

 

[banis]

Originally Posted by andreyb2

Do you think that smaller patch pockets (or at least smaller breast pocket) would help to mitigate this "overpowering" effect?

Andrey
This effect is probably caused by the shape and how patches are located on the coat.

Originally Posted by ter1413

yes...and also not carrying things in the pockets. use the inside jacket pockets..
Those are pockets and are meant that random **** would be carried there. However, I try not to carry anything in the suit jackets.

 

[Manton]

You look a little "hippy". Not sure if that's body shape or if cutting could help.

I agree, get the stuff out of the pockets. Carry stuff in your inside pockets. That's what they're for. Does not mess up the line of the coat.

If that doesn't solve the problem, perhaps you could use more shoulder extension to balance out the hips.

I think I would prefer to see a much more rounded patch shape. The size per se does not bother me. The squareness looks vintage in a bad way.

Overall it fits superbly, I must say.

 

[Slewfoot]

Originally Posted by Manton

perhaps you could use more shoulder extension to balance out the hips. I think I would prefer to see a much more rounded patch shape. Overall it fits superbly, I must say.
I agree with these points. I might also add making the lapels a touch wider especially if you extend the shoulders a touch. The quality of the fabric can be seen even in the photo. Enjoy it and thanks for posting!

 

[em36]

That is a very nice coat. I had two suits made at John Kent on Stafford St. when Darren Beaman was there. These are fantastic, my wife loves them.

 

[landshark]

Haha, I have to laugh at people who say not to put things in the outside pockets. That is exactly what they are for. Sure they don't make a great fit pick when they are utilized, but day to day having stuff in them is just fine. They are not purely aesthetic. The coat looks great by the way.

 

[andreyb2]

Originally Posted by Manton

You look a little "hippy". Not sure if that's body shape or if cutting could help.

Yes, I am.

Not sure this can be fixed with cutting (of a coat, not my body!

), but still a good topic to discuss with the tailor. Thanks!

Originally Posted by Manton

I agree, get the stuff out of the pockets. Carry stuff in your inside pockets. That's what they're for. Does not mess up the line of the coat.

Originally Posted by Slewfoot

I agree with these points. I might also add making the lapels a touch wider especially if you extend the shoulders a touch.

OK, no stuff in the pockets, I promise!

Manton, Slewfoot, em36, landshark, thank you for the nice comments.

Andrey

 

[Maccimus]

Pretty nice.

 

[scruff]

I quite like it, and would recommend you post on the London Lounge for proper feedback.

 

[mmkn]

Originally Posted by Manton

You look a little "hippy". Not sure if that's body shape or if cutting could help . . . perhaps you could use more shoulder extension to balance out the hips.

Along this line of thought I would add a some thoughts to distract the eyes away from your hips. It's a trade off, obviously.

1 - Slightly wider/fuller lapels. Would cover a small part of your breast pocket.

2 - Collar angle [where it meets the lapel gorge line] more obtuse [90-180 degrees] than acute [0-90]. An acute one [fishmouth or whatever it is called] adds "downward effects" to the your shoulders, hips, and lapel gorge line.

- M

Re: Scruff's comments, for whatever reason I no longer have the Lounge's shortcut on my internet shortcut bar. Not enough return for time spent on the interwebz, I suppose.

 

[ctp120]

IMHO:

Fit seems fine, though I agree that more shoulder extension might mitigate the "hippy" appearance. It's the styling that's off to me. I would want to change pocket size, shape and location (I think their proximity to the sides of your hips compounds the hippy-ness too); lapel and notch shape; and the disproportionately narrow sleeves relative to how the coat fits through the body.

To reiterate, your tailor is obviously more than competent at getting the fit right; it's the styling choices (obviously more subjective, in a sense) which bug me.

Edit: I know you didn't ask for this input, but I also think a white shirt with more spread and a taller collar band would really help the look too.