Jm weston question

[T4phage]

Originally posted by William Massena:

At first I must admit that Perry's collection was not something I appreciated. I did find the shoes too fashion, but I must admit that his Chelsea boots are killers. However, if I had to choose this style, narrow long, I would go with Berluti.

Having just taken possesion of my first bespoke Berlutis, and seeing the various styles in their Paris shop, the Perry Westons have a distinct personality of thier own, specifically the nose. I wouldn't mistake the two.

Originally posted by Jcusey:

Kangaroo is another interesting skin. Around here, a lot of people get formal shoes made up in black kangaroo because it takes a shine so well and is so tough.

I personally HATE Kangaroo skin. Yes they take on a nice shine, but it creases so very very easily. Having seen the new Ferragamos made with the hide ..... ugh... Ugh.

 

[William Massena]

Having just taken possesion of my first bespoke Berlutis, and seeing the various styles in their Paris shop, the Perry Westons have a distinct personality of thier own, specifically the nose.  I wouldn't mistake the two.

I agree that Perry's style is absolutely his. You will have to forgive me on that comment. While still young (I am in my mid thirties), I am extremely old fashion when it comes to shoes. Weston IMHO is the shoemaker of 180, which I believe is an amazing loafer compared to others including EG and Lobb's Lopez and Rio. While Weston makes very decent shoes, along maybe with the 677, the 180 is somewhat their original design (albeit much copied today by Tim Little and others),  the Perry collection is again a very nice assortment of shoes. I did feel that it was a JM Weston reaction to this "Men's shoe fashion " started a few years ago By Santoni,  Berluti and others.

I am far from being a purist, but I feel that if you look at the classic Weston collection with the 180, the 598 and of course the 677 there is a defining "french look and style" which is rather lost with the Perry. While the shoes are beautiful I have a hard time deciding if it is an Italian shoe with a british sole (soul?) or a British shoe with Italian look.

Weston was until the Perry collection losing its touch. The Perrys did give a nice jolt to the brand and many believe that the Perrys will be the signature line of the brand replacing the rather stuffy for many 180, Golf , 598 etc...
Hiring high profile Designers to revive a brand has been a  french luxury brand concept for a long time, Lagerfeld for Chanel in the early eighties to Marc Jacob for Vuitton. While I think it works wonders, giving a new vision to the brand. I am somewhat a partisan of evolution rather than revolution in shoes.

Finally, I would love to read your comments on bespoke Berlutis. I have a few pairs, Andys, Alessandro, Olga one bought RTW on Conduit Street and have mixed feelings.

William

 

[T4phage]

Originally posted by William Massena:

Finally, I would love to read your comments on bespoke Berlutis. I have a few pairs, Andys, Alessandro, Olga one bought RTW on Conduit Street and have mixed feelings.

This is my first bespoke Berlutis, not unlike that which is posted in her website, club 2. Mine has four eyelets and a mahogany colour. I have yet to wear it for any length of time since the weather in Holland has not been too co-operative lately. (Looking to Improve, love the weather today - windy, wet, cold, dark...

). The fit is absolutely perfect, and the shoe is a piece of artwork. Like all good bespokes, no inappropriate creasing. Totally different in looks and sensibilities from any of my other bespokes. The only thing is to try to keep the finish looking as it is.

I did feel that it was a JM Weston reaction to this "Men's shoe fashion " started a few years ago By Santoni, Berluti and others.......While the shoes are beautiful I have a hard time deciding if it is an Italian shoe with a british sole (soul?) or a British shoe with Italian look.

A few years back, the Santonis, Berlutis/StefanoBis were all into the heavy Norwegian welting, which the Perry Weston is most certainly not. In my mind, the Perry Westons (I'm talking about the 63x series) have a bespoke look about them, albiet with a modern angular take. As for being English, maybe Cleverley. Italian? Maybe the goodyear Lattanzis. Not the current crop of long snouted Santonis which to me look tragic.

While still young (I am in my mid thirties), I am extremely old fashion when it comes to shoes.

But not old fashioned enough to try Berluti

. I'm in my early thirties.

 

[William Massena]

T4phage wrote:

The fit is absolutely perfect, and the shoe is a piece of artwork. Â Like all good bespokes, no inappropriate creasing.

This is exactly my biggest criticism of the RTW Berlutis I bought. Creases are driving me nuts. Â

 I am glad to read that the bespoke don't have that problem. I was told that Berluti bespoke were much better than to their RTW (which I heard were made by Stephano bi). I really cannot understand that such an expensive RTW shoe has only one width.

A few years back, the Santonis, Berlutis/StefanoBis were all into the heavy Norwegian welting, which the Perry Weston is most certainly not

Touche. I guess my contradiction shows my lack of sophistication when it comes to these Stephano Bi. Santoni, etc.. shoes which I agree are famous for the Norwegian welt (I always thought it was fake). Â You may have convinced me to try a pair of 63X maybe the 634. I have already an obscene amount of Westons (I was once told in the Madeleine boutique that I may old some kind of record in the number of 180 I own). But I must admit that I may have made a fast judgement on that one.

 Alas, I do not see the connection between Perry's Weston and Cleverley. T4phage,  you seem to really know your shoes, you must be travelling to Belgium or France often since I seriously doubt that Weston/Berluti are easily available in your beautiful country. Finally, I just read in the March edition of British Esquire that JM Weston are now available in the UK (London). I am really enjoying this site, its addictive and quite refreshing to see that there are many like me out there. Regards, William

 

[bengal-stripe]

Finally, I just read in the March edition of British Esquire that JM Weston are now available in the UK (London).

I wouldn't trust everything I read in the papers. A shop in London stocks one style of Weston shoes. One might think that is a loafer or one of the chasse or demi-chasse styles Weston is famous for. No it's a Ghillie style, obviously aimed at the tourist market. Big deal.

I'm rather a dunce, as far as Weston shoes are concerned. I presume 180 is the plain butt-seamed loafer (very similar to Lobb's "Lopez"). Unfortunately Weston's website is no help as only the Perry styles are displayed with a model number.

 

[TimelessRider]

Wow. Great topic and interesting links.

The uppers on my Weston shoes were very stiff coming out of the box, and they had a completely different smell from most leather shoes that I've had; so I can believe that the uppers were vegetable tannage. Does anyone know for sure?

I've been curious about the unusual smell as well. I'm not sure if it's the leather or from their beeswax polish that also has a distinctive smelll.

However, regardless the brown suede loafer remains the nicest looking 180 in my humble opinion.

Welcome William. I haven't ventured into exotic skins yet, but their brown suede loafer is absolutely gorgeous. It's on my list for this summer if I have any money left.

I'm rather a dunce, as far as Weston shoes are concerned. I presume 180 is the plain butt-seamed loafer (very similar to Lobb's "Lopez"). Unfortunately Weston's website is no help as only the Perry styles are displayed with a model number.

The 180 is what Weston's signature loafer. A penny loafer like the Lopez. Their French site does a better job of displaying model numbers: it's the first model in the mocassins section.


Regarding Michel Perry - who is this guy and what is his relationship to Weston. I had never heard of this guy before I saw his shoes at the Weston store.

 

[jcusey]

I'm rather a dunce, as far as Weston shoes are concerned. I presume 180 is the plain butt-seamed loafer (very similar to Lobb's "Lopez"). Unfortunately Weston's website is no help as only the Perry styles are displayed with a model number.

Weston's 180 loafer is actually closer in design to Lobb's Campus than to the Lopez. It's a split-toe with a chevron-shaped cutout in the penny strap.

 

[William Massena]

Bengal, these are the 180. The 180 is a rather pedestrian (no pun intended) loafer, it had a large fashion following in France in the eighties. Later  it picked up in French speaking African countries, which explains the large choice of exotic hides, as these type of leathers are prized in those countries. The origin of the loafer is somewhat documented in the Weston marketing mumbo jumbo. Apparently, the shoes were created in the early twenties as the firm's interpretation of the American loafer.  I read somewhere that in May 1968, French university students were rioting in Weston loafers for a new society and thus the shoe became a cult classic for a generation of French kids (I find it a rather amusing story but most likely created for Madison Avenue). Perry was hired in 2001 (I am guessing), He is a French shoe designer who has his own ladies label, and also designed/produced shoes for Gaultier and Lacroix. I bought my first pair of 180, during the weston craze of the mid 80's and still wear them. Weston has been loathed has an overpriced RTW shoe which tries to get the price of EG while providing the quality of a cheap brand (Andre shoes owned by the same family), I have loafers from many makers, EG, Lobb, C&J, Berluti Warhol etc... But yet always seem to go back to the 180. While the shoes are far from perfect, they do age decently and keep my feet dry. I am a man of simple taste. W.

 

[jcusey]

This is my first bespoke Berlutis, not unlike that which is posted in her website, club 2. Mine has four eyelets and a mahogany colour. I have yet to wear it for any length of time since the weather in Holland has not been too co-operative lately. (Looking to Improve, love the weather today - windy, wet, cold, dark...

). The fit is absolutely perfect, and the shoe is a piece of artwork. Like all good bespokes, no inappropriate creasing. Totally different in looks and sensibilities from any of my other bespokes. The only thing is to try to keep the finish looking as it is.

What was the Berluti bespoke process like? I've read that they produce a try-on shoe that you're supposed to wear around for a while and that they examine to make last alterations for your final pair of shoes.

 

[T4phage]

Originally posted by Jcuesy:

What was the Berluti bespoke process like? I've read that they produce a try-on shoe that you're supposed to wear around for a while and that they examine to make last alterations for your final pair of shoes.

Exactly. I placed the order in Feb. 2003 when we were in Paris. Unlike their RTW shoes, you can choose most any style you want (although they suggest certain models which would best be suited to what you intend to wear it for, how you dress, your physical characteristics, etc.). As for the fitting, it was also quite involved, more like Lobb Pairs than Cleverley (i.e, I felt it took ages

, and I am one who is not comfortable with people examining the deformaties of my foot). Anyway, in May I got the try on shoe, which in itself is quite nice, although the sole feels quite different than any other dress shoe: made a totally different noise when you walk, the sensation on footstrike was different, and analysing the sole after some wear, made me think it was some sort of really tough, rough hide or maybe even wood (?). As for the fit, it was quite good, nearly perfect,but I did notice that there was a touch of looseness in the heel. I had to go back to Paris in August because they wanted to see me and discuss the fitting of the trial shoe, any tightness/looseness that I experienced, any soreness, etc. They also wanted to see me walk in the shoe, and we discussed any other modifications that I wanted (four eyelets instead of three). The finished shoe arrived last month, and it fit perfectly, and the colours were exactly as I imagined. The four eyelets makes the shoe look a touch less sportif than the three.

 

[jcusey]

Anyway, in May I got the try on shoe, which in itself is quite nice, although the sole feels quite different than any other dress shoe: made a totally different noise when you walk, the sensation on footstrike was different, and analysing the sole after some wear, made me think it was some sort of really tough, rough hide or maybe even wood (?). As for the fit, it was quite good, nearly perfect,but I did notice that there was a touch of looseness in the heel.

So do you think that all of this fuss produced a better-fitting pair of shoes (that is, a better fit than you achieved from JL Paris or Cleverley or Lattanzi)? And did you feel any twinge of regret that they cut up your try-on shoes?

 

[T4phage]

Originally posted by Jcusey:

So do you think that all of this fuss produced a better-fitting pair of shoes (that is, a better fit than you achieved from JL Paris or Cleverley or Lattanzi)?

No. My Lattanzi's are still the most immediately comfortable bespoke I have. But then again, I have only worn my Berlutis once (other than around the house).

And did you feel any twinge of regret that they cut up your try-on shoes?

YES, I wanted to keep it, but they wanted to analyse the sole plus the cork inside, plus the way my foot was held inside the shoe

.

 

[T4phage]

Originally posted by Bengal-Stripe:

is also a French range of products that is highly regarded: "Saphire". If you can get hold of it without difficulties, try it out and report back.

The cream is really wonderful. Thank you for pointing it out. It smells a heck of a lot better than any cream, and moisturizes as well as Meltonian, and it polishes to a nice sheen. I did not try Saphir's wax polish because apparently they make J.M. Weston's, which I have a supply of. Saphir seems to have two lines, the normal line and the "Medallion d'or". According to the shoe store I bought it from and to the distributor, there is NO difference in the product, just the packaging and cost... So don't get suckered into the "Gold Medal". An online website that sells Saphir products and ships worldwide (in Europe it cost Euro 15) is: AT Cuir

 

[pchong]

William. Good to see you here.

I was having lunch with My View today, and he said he saw you posting here (he saw your name from going to TZ on my recommendation). Didn't I tell you of this and Ask Andy's when we were in NYC?

Cheers.

 

[aquarius1937uk]

Hi there.

I am Brian from England.

I have admired your photograph of the Weston loafers and read your article with interest as I have been searching the internet for a secondhand pair of these shoes.

I contacted a guy in France, asking if I could purchase his, but he said that he was too fond of them. (Personally, I am not surprised as they are a very handsome shoe!)

In view of what you have written I was wondering if you knew of anywhere on the internet where I could purchase a secondhand pair of these handsome loafers - or, indeed, if you would be prepared a sell yours, as featured in the photograph. I have regularly searched on E-bay and was just too late to bid on a beautiful pair of Westons which were worn by a guy in Poland !!!

Anyway, I live in hopes and send you best wishes from a rainy day in England.

Brian.