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JL Powell

bobm

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Any comments/opinions on the JL Powel catalog's offerings? I have bought some items - latest polo shirts aren't so nice, linen pants, shorts and shirts are very nice.


Bob
 

Matt S

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All of their clothes are overpriced, but they used to make really nice forward-pleated trousers with side adjusters. This year they stopped selling forward pleats and now they refer to them as "balloon pants" in their catalogue and criticize Cary Grant for wearing them.
 

countdemoney

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JLP is a wonderful grab bag of stuff, some works, some doesn't. I've never tried any of their basic offerings, but I always enjoy seeing their editorial choices. I've had great luck with their previous sweaters, especially those from Inis Meain and those marked as woven in Italy.

I always joke that one day I'll buy the coyote throw:

http://jlpowellusa.com/product/38_48...ote-Throw.html
 

RSS

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Originally Posted by Matt S
All of their clothes are overpriced, but they used to make really nice forward-pleated trousers with side adjusters. This year they stopped selling forward pleats and now they refer to them as "balloon pants" in their catalogue and criticize Cary Grant for wearing them.
Everyone seems to be going this direction ... and there is NO excuse!
 

bobm

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Originally Posted by RSS
Everyone seems to be going this direction ... and there is NO excuse!

Not sure what you are referring to? Lack of double pleated pants? Style?

Bob
 

RSS

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Trousers with pleats come forward pleated as well as reverse pleated. The few makers of foward pleated trousers have -- over the last ten+ years -- been switching to reverse pleats (far more common). There is a difference between the two.

I'll see if I can find photos and return with another post.
 

RSS

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Forward Pleats:



* * *

Reverse Pleats:

 

bobm

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Originally Posted by RSS
Forward Pleats:



* * *

Reverse Pleats:


Ok, thanks for posting. Being a sort guy 5'6.5" - I tend to stay away from pleats - but these do look elegant.
Like another poster, I have had a mixed bag of results ordering from JLP, but one thing I am noticing is that they have more items made in China than before - not happy about that. But I do enjoy reading their catalog copy - sort of like Peterman's.
 

Wes Bourne

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From F.M. Allen:



Originally Posted by RSS
Trousers with pleats come forward pleated as well as reverse pleated. The few makers of foward pleated trousers have -- over the last ten+ years -- been switching to reverse pleats (far more common).

I don't know when the unfortunate change occured in rtw to mostly reverse pleats, but I do remember most of the chinos and pants I wore in high school (mid to late 80s) had double forward pleats and a flapped coin pocket, very similar to the F.M. Allen pair above. They were very common in dept. stores and I can still picture them in the pages of the LL Bean and Lands' End catalogs my dad used to get in the mail.
 

RSS

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Originally Posted by Wes Bourne
From F.M. Allen:





I don't know when the unfortunate change occured in rtw to mostly reverse pleats, but I do remember most of the chinos and pants I wore in high school (mid to late 80s) had double forward pleats and a flapped coin pocket, very similar to the F.M. Allen pair above. They were very common in dept. stores and I can still picture them in the pages of the LL Bean and Lands' End catalogs my dad used to get in the mail.

LL Beam only just discontinued their version this year. Land's End said goodbye a couple of years back. Brooks Brothers had them for a while ... but stopped sometime in the 90s. Very sad.

I still see them at Paul Stuart, Ben Silver and a couple of other men's stores. I't good to know about F. M. Allen! Thanks
 

bobm

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Ok, I am guessing it's a cost issue?

Bob
 

srivats

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Originally Posted by RSS
Trousers with pleats come forward pleated as well as reverse pleated. The few makers of foward pleated trousers have -- over the last ten+ years -- been switching to reverse pleats (far more common). There is a difference between the two.

I'll see if I can find photos and return with another post.


Here are a couple of pics -- it is IMPOSSIBLE to find RTW pants with a high raise and with pleats (be it forward or reverse). I was lamenting about this just yesterday in another thread.

Originally Posted by brittain
forward


reverse
 

RSS

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It can't imagine that a reverse pleat is less expensive to make than a forward pleat. I'm told that the reverse pleat is more popular. Never mind that the forward pleat is typically more associated with England & America ... and the reverse with Italy & France.
 

RSS

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Originally Posted by RSS
It can't imagine that a reverse pleat is less expensive to make than a forward pleat. I'm told that the reverse pleat is more popular. Never mind that the forward pleat was typically more associated with England & America ... and the reverse with Italy & France.
I hear you ... and I hate to pay Savile Row prices for trousers. The last time I did it was £750! I almost had a stroke. I may have to find a Hong Kong tailor to make what I want.

Have any suggestions here or there?
 

srivats

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This why I love forward pleated, high-waisted trousers -- look how well the trousers drape and how nicely they elongate the line of the legs.



Sadly, it is very difficult something like this in RTW today. I am not a fan of the SF-approves "slim pants" look and prefer wearing fuller trousers, but the ones out there aren't too good. If anyone has a source of RTW trousers that look like the above pic (without breaking the bank), PLEASE share.
 

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