Jiro Dreams of Collars

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by jhilla, Jun 15, 2012.

  1. jhilla

    jhilla Senior member

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    So, I recently saw the documentary Jiro Dreams of Sushi (I recommend if you haven't seen it, dude is straight up awesome) and I noticed that when he visits his home town he's wearing an interesting collar design. I've searched for pictures of it online but haven't found it.

    The best way I can explain it is that it's a button down collar without a collar band. Essentially, the collar rolls from the neck to the points in a single piece of fabric. The closest picture I've come across is something like this (forgive the fact that it isn't a button down).

    [​IMG]

    Also, Vox had some shirts made up by Napolisumisura that were, I believe, similar

    [​IMG].

    Jiro's collar literally looked like an inverse tear drop when viewing from the front. Since there wasn't a collar band, the line of the collar was a continuous roll - a really incredible design. Do you guys think that it would be possible to recreate something like this from a Bespoke maker like Ascot Chang? Has anyone ever seen one before? Is anyone listening to me? Plz HALP.
     


  2. edmorel

    edmorel Quality Seller!! Dubiously Honored

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    I don't know if Chang offers it but yes, you can get it other places. Depending on who you speak to, its called a camp collar, capri collar, and some other names. I will actually be selling some when I get my shirt thing up and running. I've seen AY here get some from freddy vandecastle in LA and loro piana makes a RTW model.
     


  3. jhilla

    jhilla Senior member

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    Ed, that'a awesome that Panta will be creating these. Are you going to be making them button down without pressing a collar line in by any chance?
     


  4. edmorel

    edmorel Quality Seller!! Dubiously Honored

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    That is the thought but I have not had the best of luck launching shirts the way I want them to be made, I am heading towards my third shirt maker but I think this time it will work out.
     


  5. Shirtmaven

    Shirtmaven Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    I have a sample of this shirt in my office with a hidden buttondown.
    it is an Italian collar
    any decent shirtmaker can make it.
    as a button down or like the one in your photo
     


  6. jhilla

    jhilla Senior member

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    Thanks Carl, I've been meaning to stop by your shop since I moved to New York - I'll work up the courage one day. Now, I have an excuse.
     
    Last edited: Jun 15, 2012


  7. Shirtmaven

    Shirtmaven Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    courage? i am not that scary
     


  8. mack11211

    mack11211 Senior member

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    Yeah, a camp collar.

    Not sure whether you're talking about a camp collar button front shirt or a camp collar button front shirt with with collar points that button down.

    The former appears often, the latter rarely.

    I have an old one of the latter from Luciano Barbera.

    The big style choice with camp collars is whether you get a button at the neck or not.

    The collar is so casual that the classical ones, like those pictured above, go without -- for instance, the first time we see Michael Douglas lecturing at a college in WALL STREET II, he is wearing one without. It says, don't wear me with a tie, and subtly indicates how far out of the finance game he is.

    Most RTW camp collar shirts have the button, for example the Paul Stuart Cooper model, but if Carl makes one for you, it is up to you.
     
    Last edited: Jun 20, 2012


  9. jhilla

    jhilla Senior member

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    After keeping my eye out on the innernetez for a few weeks I finally came across this picture on La Maison Degand's website that depicts exactly the type of collar I was referring to.



    [​IMG]

    One continuous line from his placket to his collar points - no collar band and no collar line pressed in, just one smooth line. How awesome is that. I'm sure this is still considered a camp collar but I found it interesting how different it looks from Bill's Napolisumisura commission. Similar to Bill's it doesn't appear as though it has a top button.
     


  10. Wes Bourne

    Wes Bourne Senior member

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    jhilla, I think I had a shirt with a collar like what you describe. It was a white open weave cotton blend shirt I got from Uniqlo in NYC a few years ago. Would still have it if the fit wasn't so lousy... However, unlike Vox's NSM shirts, there's was no hard angle between the collar and where the collar band would be. The collar looked very much like the one in your 1st post. When you pulled it open to its 1st/top button, it looked like this:

    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]

    Fwiw, I don't think Vox's shirts shown in this thread have a traditional camp collar, which, as I understand looks more like this:

    [​IMG]

    Note the collar notch and loop, which you can fasten to a button located under the opposite 'flap'. Often seen on vintage style bowling and aloha shirts.
     


  11. Wes Bourne

    Wes Bourne Senior member

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  12. jhilla

    jhilla Senior member

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  13. radicaldog

    radicaldog Senior member

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    Don't quite see the point of a buttondown Capri collar. If you wear the Capri, have the courage to wear it over your coat's lapels.
     


  14. Shirtmaven

    Shirtmaven Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    it looks good if you are not wearing a sport coat.
     


  15. mack11211

    mack11211 Senior member

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    My Luciano Barbera is like this. And this is pretty much how I wear it.

    I don't see how 'courage' comes into it. It's just another kind of buttondown collar.
     


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