Jil sander

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by Ambulance Chaser, Nov 7, 2002.

  1. Ambulance Chaser

    Ambulance Chaser Senior member

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    Does anyone know what happened to Jil Sander (the designer, not the company)?  I assumed she signed a non-compete clause with Prada prohibiting her from designing or starting another company for a few years.  And what kind of reviews has her successor Milan Vukmirovic been getting?
     
  2. thc

    thc Senior member

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    Yes, she did sign a non-compete clause with Prada. A lot of people forgot this and rumors were spread as to what she was going to do next. The ones I heard: 1) become womenswear designer at Hermes (a great fit, in my opinion); and 2) consulting designer at Banana Republic (if you can believe it.)

    Jil's successor has garnered mixed reviews. I think generally people are saying that he has kept the general aesthetic of Jil Sander, but the subtelty is gone. When he first started designing, I thought the collections looked exactly the same. However the past few seasons now look very different to me. I was a huge fan of Jil Sander but haven't bought anything since she left.

    The brand has now suffered losses, adding to the Prada Group's troubles.

    People have also said the quality has gone down. I can't personally comment on that since I haven't bought anything from the newest collections.
     
  3. GQgeek

    GQgeek Senior member

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    Didn't Prada sales increase like 20% this year despite the economy? I'm pretty sure I read that. What else does Prada own? Or when you said troubles did you mean something other than financial troubles?
     
  4. bengal-stripe

    bengal-stripe Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    None of the luxury good brands is doing well, Prada group (Prada, Helmut Lang, Jil Sander, Church's shoes, Genny) is doing worse. The stock market launch planned for this summer has been postponed. Figures for 2001:

    Earnings decreased to $130.3 million, from $191.4 million, and net income dropped by almost half, from $86.6 million to $41.9 million.

    Jil Sander lost probably the most money, partly due to the costs of new flagship stores in London and New York.
     
  5. Steve B.

    Steve B. Go Spurs Go

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    Bengal:

    How did you come up with those numbers? Do you work in retail or the financial field?
     
  6. thc

    thc Senior member

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    I can't remember the exact figures, but The Prada Group is under hundreds of millions of dollars in debt due to its shopping spree in its quest to become the next LVMH. New flagship stores, such as the incredibly expensive SoHo and London stores, declining luxury goods sales and underperforming brands within the Prada Group also factored into the Prada Group's current financial situation.

    I haven't really read about it this year in the trade journals. But I know last year, for instance, Jil Sander revenues decreased by a 1/2. This year, sales may have increased in the Prada Group's library of brands, but it's not enough of an increase and it's probably still down from 2-3 years ago.

    And yes, the IPO of Prada has been postponed now at least 2 or 3 times--not a good sign.

    Prada is not in good shape right now. They need some serious improvement in sales and serious improvements in cost-cutting.
     
  7. Joe G

    Joe G Senior member

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    And it's hard to cut costs when you built your empire selling nylon for the same price that other marques charge for leather....

    On the bright side, if Prada falls or spins off the marques it can't make work, maybe Helmut Lang's designs will be produced well, and Frau Sander might return to her namesake.

    Peace,

    JG
     
  8. bigbadbuff

    bigbadbuff Senior member

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    IMO, Prada is without a doubt the worst in every aspect of the big designer houses. They're just not even in the same league as far as workmanship, reliability, and price of their competitors. As someone else said, a nylon piece from them costs the same as a pretty good leather jacket. It's not a shock to me that they are struggling... Prada has always been more couture than most houses, thus they are going to have years where no one is wearing their pieces... sounds like they are in a lot of trouble.
     
  9. Ambulance Chaser

    Ambulance Chaser Senior member

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    I just read (in the Washington Post Sunday Business Section of all places) that Jil Sander has returned as the head of the Jil Sander line of the Prada Group.  Based on previous posts, I know that Sander is a minimalist along the lines of Helmut Lang and Calvin Klein.  I would appreciate more detailed comments on her style from any pre-Prada Sander aficionados.
     
  10. Timothy

    Timothy Senior member

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    Actually the rumor I have heard through the vine is that Prada is talking with Hugo Boss about selling Jil Sander to them, and thus Boss wants Jil to come back to her namesake company. I would be surprised if she returned without the deal going through since the falling out she had with Prada's CEO. It will be interesting to see what will happen in the up coming years. . .
     
  11. tlexmark

    tlexmark Member

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    You guys are amazing. How in the world do you keep up with the industry with such precision? Do you know people on the inside? Secret websites that tell all to a select few?

    Very envious of your knowledge banks..
     
  12. hermes

    hermes Senior member

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    jil sander going to hermes is incorrect as hermes has hired jean paul gaultier
     
  13. Ambulance Chaser

    Ambulance Chaser Senior member

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    I realize that this article is ancient news, but some people might not have heard about Jil Sander's return.
     
  14. hermes

    hermes Senior member

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    the odd thing is milan vukmirovic is still seemingly active in the company as the designer for at least the men's wear but i've not really heard as to what will happen to him, if anything
     
  15. thc

    thc Senior member

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    Has anyone see Jil Sander's first return collection? The Spring 2004 is supposed to be her first one since she came back to her label.
     

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