Jil Sander Sartorial (MTM)

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by SoCal2NYC, Dec 4, 2007.

  1. LabelKing

    LabelKing Senior member

    Messages:
    25,745
    Likes Received:
    238
    Joined:
    May 24, 2002
    Location:
    Constantinople
    Well, SoCal2NYC, you certainly didn't strike me as understated.
     


  2. dopey

    dopey Senior member Dubiously Honored

    Messages:
    14,596
    Likes Received:
    1,928
    Joined:
    Oct 12, 2006
    I don't deny people choose what they choose--but that's hardly illuminating. What's the fun in having a forum unless we can discuss why?
    Of course it can be discussed. SoCal has done so now and before, and his answers are interesting to me, the way learning about any foreign culture is interesting. I don't have to share someone's values to be interested in them.
    I don't think he has said that, and if he did, he would be lying. I am pretty sure that he previously said it is an important consideration for him, along with other considerations.
     


  3. Brian SD

    Brian SD Moderator

    Messages:
    9,760
    Likes Received:
    122
    Joined:
    Feb 5, 2004
    Location:
    Tokyo
    Having a bespoke tailor try to re-create the Jil Sander sillhouette would be like asking De Kooning to imitate Pollock. Why would you do it? Just go to Pollock.

    There are plentiful reasons to go to a bespoke tailor to get a one-of-a-kind garment.. but imitating a well-known design is not one of them.
     


  4. Panzeraxe II

    Panzeraxe II Senior member

    Messages:
    1,080
    Likes Received:
    6
    Joined:
    May 6, 2006
    Having a bespoke tailor try to re-create the Jil Sander sillhouette would be like asking De Kooning to imitate Pollock. Why would you do it? Just go to Pollock.

    There are plentiful reasons to go to a bespoke tailor to get a one-of-a-kind garment.. but imitating a well-known design is not one of them.


    I'm with dopey on this - none of these clever little analogies will convince me that a half-decent custom tailor cannot copy a very straightforward cut (like Sanders) while offering a better fit.
     


  5. SoCal2NYC

    SoCal2NYC Fashion Hayzus

    Messages:
    12,204
    Likes Received:
    5
    Joined:
    Apr 8, 2007
    Location:
    Manhattan
    Why go to a bespoke tailor to get a "copy" of what I really want and I have the label that I like behind it?
     


  6. SoCal2NYC

    SoCal2NYC Fashion Hayzus

    Messages:
    12,204
    Likes Received:
    5
    Joined:
    Apr 8, 2007
    Location:
    Manhattan
    "Fabric is cut by hand. Tailors in Milan do 26 steps by hand to make a jacket and 12 to make trousers."

    How many steps would you say are not by hand?
     


  7. Fuuma

    Fuuma Franchouillard Modasse

    Messages:
    25,921
    Likes Received:
    10,539
    Joined:
    Dec 20, 2004
    Out of curiosity - which designers do you find interesting and what about them do you like?
    My tastes are likely different from yours, but I am certainly interested in what you think. Most of my shirts, suits and sportcoats are not RTW, but to the extent I look for brand labels, it is with an interest in labels with a focus on delivering the best made version of a classic design (not, putting a "twist" on a classic, or their "takeoff" on a classic or a "reaction to" or, worst of all, entering into a "dialog" with a classic) or labels that just know what they do and do it well. Examples for me would be brands like Charvet for ties and silks (and even Pucci), Pantharella and Missoni for socks, Brooks Brothers for OCBDs, Malo for simple sweaters, etc. In theory, I would like Flusser, and I have been impressed by what I have seen in his shop when visiting with others, but I have never bought anything there.


    I listed a bunch of the stuff I wear in the thread about what I,d wear if I only wore designers...Now I could also list brands I don't necessarily wear for a variety of reasons (say they're for girls or don't fit my look). But its a good starter. I usually like what their overall vision is or their references if you will.

    I don't want to get into a huge discussion about that but if you don't check all brands that produce jackets every time you purchase a jacket than you do have brand loyalties and they're built on various thing like your experience with the brand or the ideas/image they put forward.
     


  8. SoCal2NYC

    SoCal2NYC Fashion Hayzus

    Messages:
    12,204
    Likes Received:
    5
    Joined:
    Apr 8, 2007
    Location:
    Manhattan
    My appointment is tomorrow.
     


  9. RJman

    RJman Posse Member Dubiously Honored

    Messages:
    18,647
    Likes Received:
    102
    Joined:
    Dec 10, 2004
    Location:
    In the not too distant future
    My appointment is tomorrow.

    An entire world holds its collective breath.
     


  10. A Y

    A Y Senior member

    Messages:
    5,595
    Likes Received:
    380
    Joined:
    Mar 12, 2006
    Location:
    Southern California
    An entire world holds its collective breath.

    [​IMG]
     


  11. GQgeek

    GQgeek Senior member

    Messages:
    17,933
    Likes Received:
    80
    Joined:
    Mar 4, 2002
    Location:
    Canuckistan
    I really want the shirt on the left.

    I think the buttons have a lower stance on the suit.


    Good god, why? :p

    I tend to agree with you. If SoCal wants Jil, he should buy Jil. But in terms of the bespoke suits, how many guys buying bespoke are after something with aggressive style? I imagine many want a luxe, well-fitting, relatively conservative suit. And we see a lot of suits that pretty much match that description. But I don't think that means the right tailor can't give you something unusual and interesting, or that individual tailors/houses don't have their own styles.

    I think that all of Matt's stuff is pretty much perfect, and not the least bit conservative or boring. If I had SoCal's bank account i'd be on the next flight to italy to see mr. rubinacci.

    Still, JS is MUCHHHHHHHHHHHHHH better than that Thom brown crap he likes.
     


  12. LabelKing

    LabelKing Senior member

    Messages:
    25,745
    Likes Received:
    238
    Joined:
    May 24, 2002
    Location:
    Constantinople
    What shoes are you going to wear with the Jil Sander?

    Are the trousers going to be slim?
     


  13. Biscione

    Biscione Senior member

    Messages:
    446
    Likes Received:
    0
    Joined:
    Nov 28, 2007
    I love this thread. After hundreds of years of philosophical and socialogical thought that had all suggested taste was subjective, apparently a few Style Forum members have discovered otherwise.

    Honestly, Socal should be able to wear anything he likes, and although you can argue your personal preferences, nobody can reasonably justify the claim that he should go for an alternative rather than what he obviously wants. I should note: I'm probably a bigger advocate for tailoring than most people here, but I don't happen to think everyone should do what I do, nor would I force Chopin onto someone who likes jazz.
     


  14. Brian SD

    Brian SD Moderator

    Messages:
    9,760
    Likes Received:
    122
    Joined:
    Feb 5, 2004
    Location:
    Tokyo
    It's like paying someone $3000 to imitate something that costs $3000!
     


  15. nioh

    nioh Senior member

    Messages:
    708
    Likes Received:
    2
    Joined:
    Nov 3, 2006
    Location:
    Hong Kong.
    What shoes are you going to wear with the Jil Sander?

    Are the trousers going to be slim?


    Wouldn't anything but slim trousers ruin the JS silhouette?
     


Share This Page

Styleforum is proudly sponsored by