Jefferyd reviews Indochino

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by LA Guy, Aug 18, 2012.

  1. Wes Bourne

    Wes Bourne Senior member

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    I think j.crew's Ludlow suit is quite meh. Lapels are slim, def. too slim for those who prefer a more traditional lapel width, yet aren't quite slim enough for the skinny lapel fashion-forward crowd. Armholes aren't high at all by SF standards, despite the suit's trimmer cut. Shoulder padding feels average and I find the shoulders to be rather boxy irl.

    They've def. marketed the hell out of that suit/cut over the years, but it's perhaps time for them to revamp it or come out with a new cut.
     


  2. TRINI

    TRINI Senior member

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    They're not designing for SF. They're designing for the masses.
     


  3. Wes Bourne

    Wes Bourne Senior member

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    True, but the masses are quickly catching up to SF.
     




  4. jefferyd

    jefferyd Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    No, they're not.


    They promised to ship my suit by September 8. It came yesterday (September 4). I'll try to shoot it before I leave town for the weekend.
     


  5. Wes Bourne

    Wes Bourne Senior member

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    So how do you explain something like this (taken from Esquire magazine, Sept. 2012, p.162 'the Tommy Hilfiger three-piece suit'):

    It seems every other mall brand is incorporating various SF-approved style/cut elements into their suits. Do you think it's just designers/brands pushing this to consumers rather than reacting to an actual demand?
     


  6. philosophe

    philosophe Senior member

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    Utinam!
     


  7. A Y

    A Y Senior member

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    I think there is an intersection between SF-approved features and features desirable to the mass market. Slim-fit is definitely one of them.

    And then there's mass market trying to associate itself with the bespoke tradition, which is probably where high armholes and Neapolitan elements come from. J.Crew and others often talk about bespoke details in their clothes. Tom Ford has the reverse angle shoulder seams and other "bespoke" details in his jackets. Even the word bespoke has been adopted by mainstream media in other consumer areas (eg. cars) to connote higher quality.

    The fora-approved details are probably also pushed by the tastemakers in magazines, some of whom may be influenced by forum talk or $$$, obscure-to-the-lay-person, aspirational brands (eg. Kiton). The whole #menswear movement channels online fora aspirations into mainstream fashion as well.
     


  8. TRINI

    TRINI Senior member

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    Don't underestimate the unfortunate impact of this.
     


  9. jeff13007

    jeff13007 Senior member

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    I would say yes. Because if you look back at the times where all suits were bespoke, the armholes were high and the jackets quite close to the body. Its only really after armani where you see the loose fitting suits. We seem to have gone full circle, and i do believe its because designers are trying to one up each other in terms of coming out with the next "it" thing. Look at Tom Ford for example, when every other designer was going with the slim lapels and shorter jackets he did a throw back to the tommy nutter batwing lapels.
     


  10. Shirtmaven

    Shirtmaven Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    i would guess that menswear has a two-three year lag, by the time something first hits SF and then hits mainstream.
    A company like J. Crew has a few smaller outlets to try out the more interesting details. before they end up in the catalog.

    How long did it it take for Brooks brothers to realize that their slim fit was still too large?
     


  11. A Y

    A Y Senior member

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    I think it's mostly just unfortunate. The latest J.Crew mens catalog has some eye-bleeding pictures, like a TV fold printed silk square. I used to think they had pretty good, mainstream tastes, now it's like they don't know what they're doing.
     
    Last edited: Sep 6, 2012


  12. jefferyd

    jefferyd Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    Fit pics are up. I'll get into more detail about my impressions of it on Monday.
     


  13. hendrix

    hendrix Ill-proportioned

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    Pretty good fit for that GQ style.

    Pity about the fabric choice and the buttons.
     


  14. Cary Grant

    Cary Grant Senior member

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    Thanks J- not bad at all given what you've said about process and their house style. Not convinced on the jacket proportions for a DB but it's not egregious.
     


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