Jeans

[Fuuma]

I'm looking for a new pair of jeans and since I'm not really knowledgeable about the subject I've decided to mine the forums for info.

Some questions:
-What are the different kind of denims (japanese, italian, etc) and what's the difference between them?
-What are the different cuts commonly used?
-How should I care for my jeans?
-What brands should I consider if
a)I'm 5'8 and don't want to cut some jeans made for a 6'0 guy and end up looking ridiculous
b)Those would be worn OUTSIDE of work so I'm looking for some interesting washes not some levis
c)I want to keep them for a few years so I don't mind paying a reasonnable price (of course ebay or some sort of discounter would be best but fit and general look is #1 priority).

thanks

 

[amirrorcrackd]

I'm looking for a new pair of jeans and since I'm not really knowledgeable about the subject I've decided to mine the forums for info.

Some questions:
-What are the different kind of denims (japanese, italian, etc) and what's the difference between them?
-What are the different cuts commonly used?
-How should I care for my jeans?
-What brands should I consider if
a)I'm 5'8 and don't want to cut some jeans made for a 6'0 guy and end up looking ridiculous
b)Those would be worn OUTSIDE of work so I'm looking for some interesting washes not some levis
c)I want to keep them for a few years so I don't mind paying a reasonnable price (of course ebay or some sort of discounter would be best but fit and general look is #1 priority).

thanks

1. Different looms produce different jeans. I'll let LA Guy, BrianSD, and T4phage handle this one, otherwise I'll look like a dolt.
2. Boot cut - opens up slightly at the ankle to accomodate a boot. The jeans fall over the boot. My preferred cut.
Straight leg - cut straight down. Can be flattering with slim jeans and works very well with smaller shoes (e.g. converse all stars).
Tapering leg cut - not a preferred choice of mine. The leg opening gets smaller as it goes to the ankle. Depending on the amount of taper, this could be a disaster.
3. Wash jeans inside out, do not machine dry them. Jeans stretch and shrink regularly. When you wash them, they will get smaller. The length can be stretched out while wet just by pulling on them, if need be. If you buy unwashed denim (Nudies, for example), you aren't supposed to wash them for a LONG time. Kinda nasty in my opinion.
4. a) You're 5'8", but what's your build like? How old are you?
b) I am a staunch supporter of Diesel. They get a lot of **** on this board for their "outlandish" washes, but I generally find them quite handsome. Plus, they cut one hell of a jean and they are built to last. Be VERY careful when looking for Diesel on ebay. In fact, for a beginner, I'd say don't even try. I also really like Hugo by Hugo Boss (their more fashion forward line). Much more difficult to find, but they are a nice comfortable jean, with a good fit, in attractive washes. PDCs are spoken highly of...I don't like them at all. They just don't fit me. And I've given them a shot. I just can't do it. Your milage may vary. Juicy Couture cuts a really nice boot cut jean, but they seemed very frail in the store. I didn't end up buying them. Others to consider: Earnest Sewn (a board favorite), APC (another board favorite, and one I personally like quite a bit - check out their New Standard Jean), JP D'amage (the forum seems to like them, I have no experience), Seven (tend to look best on Asians due to their cut, and I think of them as more of a girl's jean, but they can be nice), True Religion (bleh - ugly and overpriced), Adriano Goldschmied (awsome jeans...why, oh why, can't they have a button-fly though?), Joe's Jeans (no one really mentions these...I like them), Chip and Pepper (why are these popular?), and Helmut Lang (when in doubt, go with a classic).
c) Diesel, Helmut Lang, and APC will survive the apocalypse. Nuff said.

Also consider denim weight. A higher weight will probably last longer, but may not be so comfortable, so you have to find that happy medium.

Dan

 

[Pink22m]

What is the advantage to washing jeans inside out? I am guessing that it helps them to hold their color better?

 

[Luc-Emmanuel]

What is the advantage to washing jeans inside out?  I am guessing that it helps them to hold their color better?

yes.

I second the helmut lang suggestion. And I have a nice pair of jeans from "vintage 55" too : nice work.

.luc

 

[Brian SD]

I think Dan hit it on the mark pretty much...

To be honest, I dont really know any exact differences between Japanese or Italian denim, and to be even more honest I dont think there really are any. The weave, denim weight and loom used are going to have a much greater effect on the end result. Japanese, Italian and American denim mills all have 29 inch looms, but Japan is more famous for them, as they have the original Levis looms. Japanese mills seem to be the most "hardcore" about it, bringing out 16 and even 19 oz denim (heavy weight is 14, typical jeans are 11 or so), so Japan has the largest denim cult following.

It's sort of a buzzword really to say "Japanese denim." It just generally signifies that it's of top quality, even though it doesn't necessarily mean that all denim from Japan.

 

[Fuuma]

4.  a)  You're 5'8", but what's your build like?  How old are you?

I'm slim (36 size suits and 30 inches waist) and in my 20s. I'd like to get something with a slim fit, probably a bootcut. As a first step I'll go try on some APCs, probably next weekend. They seem to be well made but pretty plain, I'm not sure that's exactly what I'm looking for but at least I'll be able to judge in person.

Seven (tend to look best on Asians due to their cut, and I think of them as more of a girl's jean, but they can be nice)

Not sure I follow you here, what do you mean by that?

Brian: you were kind enough to recommend some Jil Sander suits to me and I was extremely satisfied with my purchase (as well cut as Helmut Lang but fits me better) I'm very interested in your opinion on this: Since my inseam must be something like 29-30 (making me a 30X30 or 30X29) what brands should I avoid/look for considering cutting some jeans made for a 6'0 model will completely unbalance the design of some brands IMHO.

Regards

 

[Brian SD]

Glad to hear that you like your JS suit. Firstly, *any* straight leg jean will do you fine for your height. You'd have to be about 4'3" to throw off any of the balance of the cut. I guess I would have to say that Paper Denim and Cloth might be a bad idea for someone under 6'0" (except for the straight leg cut). As discussed here before, hemming the jeans up will put the distressing in the wrong places as well as throw off the boot cut. 5'8" is a pretty versatile height. I might actually recommend getting straight-leg jeans and cuffing them up 2" or so, especially if they are selvage jeans. You can really see how well-crafted the jeans are if you show the cuffs at the bottom. It's also a much tougher, classic look, though I'm not sure if this is what you're looking for. Please do not cuff boot-cut or flared jeans unless it is a very moderate boot-cut that appears straight. You might offend someone. Diesel jeans are often very well built for those with a 30" inseam. In fact I've often thought they look a little too effeminate on the taller sorts. Kunna, a more obscure Japanese brand make some really awesome cut jeans. They are modelled after the 501, but do not taper at the bottom and do not pillow at the seat. If you can find some, check them out definitely. The APC jeans are very plain, but that is part of their appeal. The fit of them is really great, and they are a good example of a jean that is cut slightly long that you can cuff up. If you don't like the stiff, unwashed look (completely understandable), you'll want to throw them in the wash once or twice to get the indigo out (and that awful indigo smell). www.howies.co.uk - Howie's jeans, another good straight-legger , although not as slim as the afformentioned brands.

 

[Pink22m]

I would also like to suggest Zegna jeans, specifically their herringbone models.  I have two pairs, a light blue wash and a dark gray wash.  Both have a very subtle herringbone pattern, and I find their cut to be excellent.  Like you, I am also skinny (36R jacket, 30 inch waist, 140 lbs).  The only issue you might have with them is that the leg openings are a tad narrow, which can be problematic depending on the size of the shoes you typically wear.  For me it is not a problem, since I wear lower profile loafers and lace ups.  Otherwise, they are great jeans.

Additionally, the denim that Zegna uses on their herringbone models is pretty lightweight: 6 oz. The jeans have more drape and are much softer then heavier weight jeans that I own.

 

[MCA]

Japanese mills seem to be the most "hardcore" about it, bringing out 16 and even 19 oz denim (heavy weight is 14, typical jeans are 11 or so), so Japan has the largest denim cult following.

Hi Brian-

The heaviest jeans I own are a pair of Rag&Bone at 13.75 oz. I've never seen denim heavier that 14 oz., but I am intrigued. What brands use the heavier weights? Have you experienced their "wearability"? I wonder how uncomfortable a 19 oz. would feel in dry, new condition..

Thank you.

 

[geosync]

Can anyone recommend some standard, good quality jeans? I have looked at Paper Denim and others, but those seem to be a little too trendy for me. Is their something similar to Bill's Khakis of jeans? I would stick with standard Levi's, but the they seem to wear out quickly.

 

[LA Guy]

Can anyone recommend some standard, good quality jeans? I have looked at Paper Denim and others, but those seem to be a little too trendy for me. Is their something similar to Bill's Khakis of jeans? I would stick with standard Levi's, but the they seem to wear out quickly.

For a standard rigid style, APC has made the same jean with hardly any changes for years. Straightleg.

 

[benchan]

Those would be worn OUTSIDE of work so I'm looking for some interesting washes not some levis

These are nice if you were still in your 20s.

 

[T4phage]

My suggestions:
1) Levis Vintage Clothing 501's raw... 1966 cut

2) Nudie Jeans Regular Ralf Dry Selvedge raw

3) Denime Type 66

 

[hermes]

as i understand from something i read recently (can't recall which publication it was) but the average weight of denim today is now 13oz

it should also be clarified that selvage denim is made on 29 inch looms (the original size for denim weaving), all other denims are made on the modern 56 or 62 inch looms

as such, weight is determined by one square yard of 29 inch denim, however, i have no idea what you do if you have 62 inch denim, is it calculated by taking a proportionate ratio or something? anyone know?

 

[j]

A-ha, a-ha, the letter two my friend... Is not one square yard of 29" denim the same size as one square yard of 62" denim?