Japanese Shoes: Bespoke & RTW Super Thread

[Stefan88]

Quite excited for this new workshop I've been working with. Handwelted, handstitched outsole stitch at the waist, and superb finishing. Also, the maker is a great guy!

The finishing is definitely at a high standard, and the waist is sublime

 

[ericgereghty]

Gorgeous! Is this to be a house brand/offering?

 

[Stefan88]

Gorgeous! Is this to be a house brand/offering?

Thank you!
Yes, I've been working on finding something really good for years now. We've made a new, rather unique last, and will offer them as RTW and MTO.
It's really great to work with passionate people

 

[ThinkDerm]

Thank you!
Yes, I've been working on finding something really good for years now. We've made a new, rather unique last, and will offer them as RTW and MTO.
It's really great to work with passionate people

Price point and when available?

 

[Stefan88]

Price point and when available?

Aiming at around 1050 euro ex vat. Lasted shoe trees for around 80.
Some leathers and makeups will be extra, but no mto surcharge.

We're getting the first round now in August. Mainly bottoming and finish remaining.

Will be a small and top level production.

 

[cliffordcaucus]

Aiming at around 1050 euro ex vat. Lasted shoe trees for around 80.
Some leathers and makeups will be extra, but no mto surcharge.

We're getting the first round now in August. Mainly bottoming and finish remaining.

Will be a small and top level production.

Looking forward to getting myself a pair in August! Keep us updated

 

[Stefan88]

Looking forward to getting myself a pair in August! Keep us updated

Will do

 

[dan'l]

I have been following this thread through the years and ogling over the beautiful shoes. I never really considered using a Japanese shoemaker but after working with two shoemakers in Europe, I am tempted to use my next trip to Japan to meet one or two local makers and commission something. I am willing to commit mid- to long-term, meaning I probably won't be able to have a fitting until six months (or longer) later and then final shoes perhaps up to two years after my initial order, but I would like to try...

With all that said, would someone be willing to summarize the shoemakers who are currently taking new clients, along with approximate wait times and rough price brackets (e.g. under ¥250k / over ¥300k)? I know some have a turn-around time of 3 to 5 years, which would be too long for me. Pricing is always a tricky question, but I'd like to have a ballpark figure in mind before I start contacting them.

I hope it is appropriate to ask the question - even though I've read many posts, it is tough to go back through them all to build an accurate overview. I did consider sending a PM to some of the more frequent posters, but thought my question could benefit others.

 

[Texasmade]

I have been following this thread through the years and ogling over the beautiful shoes. I never really considered using a Japanese shoemaker but after working with two shoemakers in Europe, I am tempted to use my next trip to Japan to meet one or two local makers and commission something. I am willing to commit mid- to long-term, meaning I probably won't be able to have a fitting until six months (or longer) later and then final shoes perhaps up to two years after my initial order, but I would like to try...

With all that said, would someone be willing to summarize the shoemakers who are currently taking new clients, along with approximate wait times and rough price brackets (e.g. under ¥250k / over ¥300k)? I know some have a turn-around time of 3 to 5 years, which would be too long for me. Pricing is always a tricky question, but I'd like to have a ballpark figure in mind before I start contacting them.

I hope it is appropriate to ask the question - even though I've read many posts, it is tough to go back through them all to build an accurate overview. I did consider sending a PM to some of the more frequent posters, but thought my question could benefit others.

If you're in the US, you could fly to NYC and commission Koji Suzuki through the Armoury. He travels to NYC on a somewhat regular schedule

 

[taxgenius]

If you're in the US, you could fly to NYC and commission Koji Suzuki through the Armoury. He travels to NYC on a somewhat regular schedule

Any idea roughly the cost of his shoes?

 

[Texasmade]

Any idea roughly the cost of his shoes?

Koji Suzuki - The Armoury

Koji trained in Florence, Italy under Roberto Ugolini. His style emphasizes balance and proportion, sticking to the classic styles, while focusing on attention to detail with a very high quality make.

thearmoury.com

The Armoury says starting at $4200.

 

[dan'l]

Thanks, but I’m not based in the US. His shoes are wonderful, though!

 

[daizawaguy]

I have been following this thread through the years and ogling over the beautiful shoes. I never really considered using a Japanese shoemaker but after working with two shoemakers in Europe, I am tempted to use my next trip to Japan to meet one or two local makers and commission something. I am willing to commit mid- to long-term, meaning I probably won't be able to have a fitting until six months (or longer) later and then final shoes perhaps up to two years after my initial order, but I would like to try...

With all that said, would someone be willing to summarize the shoemakers who are currently taking new clients, along with approximate wait times and rough price brackets (e.g. under ¥250k / over ¥300k)? I know some have a turn-around time of 3 to 5 years, which would be too long for me. Pricing is always a tricky question, but I'd like to have a ballpark figure in mind before I start contacting them.

I hope it is appropriate to ask the question - even though I've read many posts, it is tough to go back through them all to build an accurate overview. I did consider sending a PM to some of the more frequent posters, but thought my question could benefit others.

It would seem that your wait time and logistics seem good. For a real ballpark figures from the top of my head:

Marquess, +/- Yen 380,000, 1 year
Seiji McCarthy, ditto, ditto
Fukuda, +/- Yen 450,000, 2 years
Hayano, Yen 330,000, 1 year
Ando, Yen 200,000, 1 year
Clematis, +/- 3-0,000, 1 year
Barbavitra, Yen 2-0,000, 8 months
Kiyo, Yen 2-0,000, 6 months
Anonymous (H. Akasaka), Yen 180,000, 1 year

[Yen 2-0,000 means 200,000 something, i.e 230,000, 240,000 etc.]

Full bespoke is at the top end of the price range, and at the bottom end could be discussed with the maker - that is is they may have a last and may be able to make adjustments etc. but may prefer MTO at this price range. Also, more frequent visits may be needed with the lower ranges. Best really to see their instagrams, and if you get a good feel, stick with your feelings and proceed. The other factor is location - the pricier ones are easier to get to. Japan is a pretty fairly priced hierarchy of price/standard, though bespoke shoes being handmade still have some gaps between makers. You have to balance this yourself. At the top end of the range you will have fitting shoes until the shoes fit perfectly, and the bottom less, but here again, contact each maker and develop a feel for their shoes and work style.

If you are adventurous, search Shoegazing and the shoe competition rankings and seek out a maker who may be there and see if you could work with them. There are now 100+ shoemakers in Japan, maybe more!

Enjoy the experience

Enjoy!

 

[dan'l]

Wow, thank you so much for the thoughtful post! It’s exactly what I was looking for. I only recognize about half the names from this thread. Have the others been mentioned as well, for example, Ando or H. Akasaka? Do you have some rough figures for Ann.bespoke? I was perusing his Instagram and like the aesthetic.

Good suggestion on searching the shoe making rankings!

 

[daizawaguy]

Ando came 5th and 18th in the first and second Shoegazing contest.

World Championships in Shoemaking 2019 - All competition shoes pt.2 - Shoegazing.com

This is part two of the massive walkthrough of all competition shoes in the World Championships in Shoemaking 2019. Here position 11 to 40 is reviewed

shoegazing.se

I contacted him through his Instagram account.

H Akasaka has been in Western Tokyo for about 10 years I believe, and was previously working with a lady who makes shoes, but whose name escapes me. He recently had an exhibition/trunk show at Hankyu Mens.

Ann`s prices are not on his site, http://ann-bespoke.com/Ann2018/index.html, but I remember them being in the Yen 380,000 range if my memory is correct. Obviously leather choices can change this range too. A trip to Osaka is necessary though.

The other thing to bear in mind is that shoe trees are sometimes extra - makers quote both ex and incl. prices for shoe-trees. Some also can work tax-free, but inevitably the smaller ones don't offer this.