Japanese Shoes: Bespoke & RTW Super Thread

[cliffordcaucus]

If I were unable to travel to japan for single or multiple fitting sessions, would a RTW pair of Yohei Fukuda be worth their cost? I understand the high standard of quality and technique these shoes represent though I wonder whether $2300 wouldn't be better spent on bespoke from another brand or otherwise. My apologies if this has already been asked.

 

[nutcracker]

If I were unable to travel to japan for single or multiple fitting sessions, would a RTW pair of Yohei Fukuda be worth their cost? I understand the high standard of quality and technique these shoes represent though I wonder whether $2300 wouldn't be better spent on bespoke from another brand or otherwise. My apologies if this has already been asked.

If you really like the look of Yohei Fukuda, then the RTW may be the only viable alternative to his order made shoes. For that price, Clematis’s hand made line is also worth checking out, also no fitting.

 

[cliffordcaucus]

If you really like the look of Yohei Fukuda, then the RTW may be the only viable alternative to his order made shoes. For that price, Clematis’s hand made line is also worth checking out, also no fitting.

That is a fair assessment. Tried Clematis’ website for shoes available to order and cannot find any hand made shoes so maybe they have to be ordered by email?

Nutcracker, do you know how the comfort might be in a pair of Yohei Fukuda shoes? From my experience comfort has gone up as the quality of the shoe rises, with a pair of deco GG being my most comfortable shoes.

 

[nutcracker]

That is a fair assessment. Tried Clematis’ website for shoes available to order and cannot find any hand made shoes so maybe they have to be ordered by email?

Nutcracker, do you know how the comfort might be in a pair of Yohei Fukuda shoes? From my experience comfort has gone up as the quality of the shoe rises, with a pair of deco GG being my most comfortable shoes.

You have to be there in person to order the handmade shoes from Clematis. I have ordered 2 of his shoes before, and he will measure you up, and adjust the house last where it has to. You have some say in the upper and bottom design too.

I believe that Yohei Fukuda RTW production is mainly outsourced. They look really nice though. The difference between similarly priced Deco and YF RTW is that the latter is also handlasted and handsewn welted. HSWed shoes do offer advantages in longevity such as having a more substantial midsole, and a more secure welt construction, but comfort wise, its hard to tell until you try. The shape of the last as well as the upper structure have more to do with comfort, rather than being GYW or HSW.

Sorry I have never tried a Yohei Fukuda shoes, but I do have DECO shoes and they are surprisingly comfortable for their shape.

ps In Japan, G&G Deco shoes cost significantly more than Yohei Fukuda RTW shoes.

 

[daizawaguy]

A few comments on the YF RTW: Firstly, I found the sizing advice given by vendors (at the launch anyway, a year or more ago) was too small, in my case anyway. I have heard advice on sizing down 1 full size from GG, and eventually bought half a size down, but found this quite tight. Secondly, the height of the toe box, even vamp, is very very low, in order to give it that sleek look. You have to see the shoe from the side to imagine if you can fit in this. Thirdly, the hand welted stitches create a series of bumps on the inside of the insole. This is visible when the shoe is new, and is not necessarily always a function of HWed, but perhaps the thickness of the insole used. These bumps become more pronounced with wear the in YF RTW, and can lead to comfort issues, especially in the case of the constricted front space. FYI, I am 8.5GG, 8 EG, 8 AC, and chose a 8YF, but wish I had gone a half size bigger. I did try 8.5 on though, and the vamp crease had volume - but of course hard to tell how this would have settled down over time. Personally, if I ever bought again, I`d have to settle for the 8.5. Interested to hear comments from other owners, and from anyone on the rippled inside of insoles due to the hand welting and the comfort issues it creates.

 

[daizawaguy]

Insole

 

[cliffordcaucus]

A few comments on the YF RTW: Firstly, I found the sizing advice given by vendors (at the launch anyway, a year or more ago) was too small, in my case anyway. I have heard advice on sizing down 1 full size from GG, and eventually bought half a size down, but found this quite tight. Secondly, the height of the toe box, even vamp, is very very low, in order to give it that sleek look. You have to see the shoe from the side to imagine if you can fit in this. Thirdly, the hand welted stitches create a series of bumps on the inside of the insole. This is visible when the shoe is new, and is not necessarily always a function of HWed, but perhaps the thickness of the insole used. These bumps become more pronounced with wear the in YF RTW, and can lead to comfort issues, especially in the case of the constricted front space. FYI, I am 8.5GG, 8 EG, 8 AC, and chose a 8YF, but wish I had gone a half size bigger. I did try 8.5 on though, and the vamp crease had volume - but of course hard to tell how this would have settled down over time. Personally, if I ever bought again, I`d have to settle for the 8.5. Interested to hear comments from other owners, and from anyone on the rippled inside of insoles due to the hand welting and the comfort issues it creates.

Wow that is a great amount of insight. The first question that comes to mind is: if you were to buy again with the chance to go to another brand, would you still go with RTW YF? Or would you rather have another pair of GG or some other brand at that same price?

 

[daizawaguy]

Wow that is a great amount of insight. The first question that comes to mind is: if you were to buy again with the chance to go to another brand, would you still go with RTW YF? Or would you rather have another pair of GG or some other brand at that same price?

You know, this is a very difficult question - partly access to what is available and your access to the makers. I am fortunate to live in Japan, and there are now many bespoke makers, with some in the Yen 200,000- range which is some Pounds 1400 or so. But of course, as with all shoes its all about fit, and this does not come that easy, bespoke or RTW. My advice is if you have found your good fit, then stick with it, be it GG or another. I've had mixed experiences with GG - found the Isham to fit differently from other models, and found the whole cut to be so uncomfortable and squeaky that I'm scared to try other models. They have beautiful lasts, but quite pricey. I also haven't seen one age without that dryness on the vamp (crease area), and wonder if this is the leather - in contrast to EG, where you see beautifully aged ones. But back to Japanese shoes - see if you could try a YF on, and if you like it, it is a beautiful shoe. Yanagimachi and Seiji McCarthy also have MTM, but you would have to visit Japan. Clematis have stock models (made by Joe works?), but don't think they are avaliable overseas. Enjoy the shoe journey - a great gentleman's passion.

 

[Complete Novice]

Dear Members,

Has anyone had any experience with Santa Mercedes?
https://santamercede.com/index.html View attachment 1004688
Regards

Completenovice

Guys,

Here are some photos that I took on my handphone whilst visiting Santa Mercede in Osaka the other day - no filters etc so in terms of colour balance etc this is very close to what they look like in real life.

At this point in time all models come in a round last only but he now has a wider range of sizes. There are a range of construction options from blake to welted, 'made in Italy' or 'made in Japan', various leather choices etc. The model receiving the most buzz is the burgundy tassel loafer. Like all of their shoes it strikes a nice balance between distinctive and understated.

The proprietor Shinji-san is a very nice and extremely helpful guy and I think his work deserves a wider audience.

Please enjoy!

Complete Novice

 

[aristoi bcn]

That burgundy loafer is what Agnelli would have worn with a grisaglia suit from Caraceni. Very nice.

 

[Stefan88]

A few comments on the YF RTW: Firstly, I found the sizing advice given by vendors (at the launch anyway, a year or more ago) was too small, in my case anyway. I have heard advice on sizing down 1 full size from GG, and eventually bought half a size down, but found this quite tight. Secondly, the height of the toe box, even vamp, is very very low, in order to give it that sleek look. You have to see the shoe from the side to imagine if you can fit in this. Thirdly, the hand welted stitches create a series of bumps on the inside of the insole. This is visible when the shoe is new, and is not necessarily always a function of HWed, but perhaps the thickness of the insole used. These bumps become more pronounced with wear the in YF RTW, and can lead to comfort issues, especially in the case of the constricted front space. FYI, I am 8.5GG, 8 EG, 8 AC, and chose a 8YF, but wish I had gone a half size bigger. I did try 8.5 on though, and the vamp crease had volume - but of course hard to tell how this would have settled down over time. Personally, if I ever bought again, I`d have to settle for the 8.5. Interested to hear comments from other owners, and from anyone on the rippled inside of insoles due to the hand welting and the comfort issues it creates.

Such bumps comes in every handwelted shoe I've ever seen, unless a sole is added on top to hide the bumps or help with the issues you seem to have had. Do you feel anything similar with your Marquess or Kiyo shoes?

 

[daizawaguy]

Such bumps comes in every handwelted shoe I've ever seen, unless a sole is added on top to hide the bumps or help with the issues you seem to have had. Do you feel anything similar with your Marquess or Kiyo shoes?

Much less on Marquess, Kiyo ‘s have an insock.

 

[justsayno]

Anyone here has experience with Ando shoes/boots? Looks like Norwegian welted Whites Boots.

安藤製靴1959 (@andoshoe1959) • Instagram photos and videos

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[daizawaguy]

Superb work by Kiyo Uda - his entry to the 2019 World shoemaking Championship

 

[daizawaguy]