Japanese Shoes: Bespoke & RTW Super Thread

[BColl_Has_Too_Many_Shoes]

Yes. Joe Works cost a little more. And Joe Works make more Alden styles boots while Miyagi Kogyos boots are closer to workwear style.

If @winghus did in fact confuse the names, I am guilty of doing that with Joe Works and Corno Blu. I literally Google the names of both brands to refresh myself of what they look like almost every time. To me, Miyagi Kogyo is very reminiscent of Cheaney, so that differentiates itself from the other two brands.

 

[Stefan88]

If @winghus did in fact confuse the names, I am guilty of doing that with Joe Works and Corno Blu. I literally Google the names of both brands to refresh myself of what they look like almost every time. To me, Miyagi Kogyo is very reminiscent of Cheaney, so that differentiates itself from the other two brands.

I'm biased of course, but I don't associate Cheaney with anything good. I consider Miyagi Kogyo a budget version of Edward Green that does not make compromises on quality. The leathers I saw when I lived in Japan wasn't all that great, but now, after we used French calf, they're upping their game also in Japan.
Their last for formal shoes is quite similar to EGs 82 in d width, but I think the instep is slightly lower. And there's a little banana action going on. Works wonders for many.
Just really good value for money, I think.

 

[BColl_Has_Too_Many_Shoes]

I'm biased of course, but I don't associate Cheaney with anything good. I consider Miyagi Kogyo a budget version of Edward Green that does not make compromises on quality. The leathers I saw when I lived in Japan wasn't all that great, but now, after we used French calf, they're upping their game also in Japan.
Their last for formal shoes is quite similar to EGs 82 in d width, but I think the instep is slightly lower. And there's a little banana action going on. Works wonders for many.
Just really good value for money, I think.

I was referring more to MK's aesthetic being similar to Cheaney versus the overall package. Of course visual representation is not indicative of the quality offered by MK, at least as it refers to the EG comparison, but visually they do not seem comparative. TBF, all three Japanese brands mentioned offer more for your money than EG.

 

[clee1982]

Corno Blu really reminds me of EG I have to say

 

[Stefan88]

I was referring more to MK's aesthetic being similar to Cheaney versus the overall package. Of course visual representation is not indicative of the quality offered by MK, at least as it refers to the EG comparison, but visually they do not seem comparative. TBF, all three Japanese brands mentioned offer more for your money than EG.

I was actually thinking of the visual representation. Cheaney, to me, has always been undefined. Not sure if it's the lasts or the whole package, but I've never picked up a pair of Cheaneys and been impressed.
Whereas to me, Miyagi Kogyos 103 (NST) is one of the better versions of the Dover-pattern without being a straight copy. The last shape is, as their owner kept stressing when I met him, "Inside Straight". In balance I think the last is reminiscent of the 82.
Miyagi Kogyo, in terms of upper finishing (on the leather) , is closer to Alfred Sargent and Hiro Yanagimachi, if that makes sense? Not any wild patina work. Just nice leathers without much coloring.

 

[BColl_Has_Too_Many_Shoes]

Corno Blu really reminds me of EG I have to say

I would agree with that. Visually more reminiscent of EG, than most brands. The one exception is the MK SpTD. That one is the closest one to the Dover on the 82 last.

 

[BColl_Has_Too_Many_Shoes]

I was actually thinking of the visual representation. Cheaney, to me, has always been undefined. Not sure if it's the lasts or the whole package, but I've never picked up a pair of Cheaneys and been impressed.
Whereas to me, Miyagi Kogyos 103 (NST) is one of the better versions of the Dover-pattern without being a straight copy. The last shape is, as their owner kept stressing when I met him, "Inside Straight". In balance I think the last is reminiscent of the 82.
Miyagi Kogyo, in terms of upper finishing (on the leather) , is closer to Alfred Sargent and Hiro Yanagimachi, if that makes sense? Not any wild patina work. Just nice leathers without much coloring.

You were just faster on the draw than I was with your comment concerning the MK 103 ?

 

[winghus]

Yes, it was Skomaker Dagestad and I was specifically mis-remembering the Kogyo NST as being Joe Works. Alden was one of the brands I remember them carrying.

 

[clee1982]

I would agree with that. Visually more reminiscent of EG, than most brands. The one exception is the MK SpTD. That one is the closest one to the Dover on the 82 last.

I have lazyman from Corno Blu from Yeossal when they were still carrying it (and dumping it so it was like < Carmina price in the end), whatever chisel toe it was on reminds me of 888 somewhat and all the "visual detail", though leather felt thinner (or the whole shoe)

 

[BColl_Has_Too_Many_Shoes]

I have lazyman from Corno Blu from Yeossal when they were still carrying it (and dumping it so it was like < Carmina price in the end), whatever chisel toe it was on reminds me of 888 somewhat and all the "visual detail", though leather felt thinner (or the whole shoe)

I actually never personally recommend Corno Blu, Joe Works, or Miyagi Kogyos. If ever I do, I preface it with a "I don't have experience with the brand but based on other's experiences" blah blah blah.

This is when I rely on people's experiences from whom I trust. From what I have heard thus far, I think all three brands have been mostly well received.
It is great prospective buyers have a few solid options from which to select from at this price range.

Saying that, darn shame you can't purchase a Japanese HW shoe (or an English one for that matter) for under $1000.
At least purveyors like @Stefan88 & Skomaker Dagestad and makers Siroenoyosui, Corno Blu, and Santari provide us the opportunity to pick up a Japanese HW shoe for under $2000.

Would be nice to uncover more underpriced Japanese gems for inquiring minds. Where's that ThunderMarch when you need him. He needs to refocus his efforts back to the Japanese sector and away from the Chinese one ?.

 

[acapaca]

Quite a low upcharge for hand welt and modified last, IMO.

Does anyone know how the make of his hand welted is done? The sole stitching is machine-made and looks similar to the Goodyear welted RTW / MTO made by Central shoes, but waist is narrower and likely hand stitched (if not cemented). Wonder if he do the hand welted in-house and has the machines himself, or if the those parts are also made at Central.

Judging by his Instagram, seem to be he machine stitch the soles (front part) of bespoke as well as standard, likely one reason for the good price. But then makes hand stitched outsoles as well, I would assume at an upcharge.

Ah, I didn't realize there was a modified last. Yes, seems nice!

Quick other question for you, while I have you. I'm reading your review of a Miyagi Kogyo semi-brogue, and I see you mention that Japanese lasts "can sometimes have a slightly different shape to European." I was wonder if you could expand on that all?

 

[clee1982]

Corno Blu is GYW (or at least mine is, think they have a substantially higher HW range)

 

[BColl_Has_Too_Many_Shoes]

Corno Blu is GYW (or at least mine is, think they have a substantially higher HW range)

Didn't @daizawaguy hint they were around $1300? Or was that strictly for MTM?

 

[Stefan88]

Corno Blu is GYW (or at least mine is, think they have a substantially higher HW range)

There's a lot of rumours on who makes what, and it shouldn't always be trusted. I believe though, that the handwelted stuff he makes himself.

 

[Stefan88]

I actually never personally recommend Corno Blu, Joe Works, or Miyagi Kogyos. If ever I do, I preface it with a "I don't have experience with the brand but based on other's experiences" blah blah blah.

This is when I rely on people's experiences from whom I trust. From what I have heard thus far, I think all three brands have been mostly well received.
It is great prospective buyers have a few solid options from which to select from at this price range.

Saying that, darn shame you can't purchase a Japanese HW shoe (or an English one for that matter) for under $1000.
At least purveyors like @Stefan88 & Skomaker Dagestad and makers Siroenoyosui, Corno Blu, and Santari provide us the opportunity to pick up a Japanese HW shoe for under $2000.

Would be nice to uncover more underpriced Japanese gems for inquiring minds. Where's that ThunderMarch when you need him. He needs to refocus his efforts back to the Japanese sector and away from the Chinese one ?.

There's a store in Fukuoka called Gentry Complex carrying handwelted shoes styled similar to EG for quite nice prices. Believe it's all order based, and obviously they had nothing in my size... ?
And, Fukuoka is the best city in Japan. Would recommend a trip there. Best food and chill atmosphere ? Corno Blu is there too!