Japanese Shoes: Bespoke & RTW Super Thread

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by nutcracker, Apr 4, 2013.

  1. nutcracker

    nutcracker Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    I think you'll be just fine! :fonz:

    Bellago in Kobe might be able to do custom belts for you, but I'm not 100% sure.
    www.bellago.jp

    Ganzo makes some nice custom belts too (not bespoke but still nice) and they have a nice new store in Osaka.
    http://www.ganzo.ne.jp/STORE/user_data/sp_vol5_1.php
    Warmcraft Manufacture (Shinki Hikaku) offers belts made from Japanese cordovan. I think their flagship store is in Osaka.

    In Tokyo, Guild does bespoke belts from ¥42K~
    http://www.footwear.co.jp/Product/goods/pg53.html

    Hiro Yanagaimachi also does custom belts for ¥47K~
    Fugee can do it too, but would probably cost way more.
    Ortus stopped taking orders for small leather goods/belts.
     
  2. chogall

    chogall Senior member

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    Two short videos of lasting and welting process done by Mr. Seki Nobuyoshi (関 信義), bespoke shoemaker for Sanyo Yamacho (三陽山長). The equivalent of Dimitri Gomez at Crockett & Jones, or Gaziano & Girling at Gaziano & Girling RTW.

    Mr. Seki started his career at 17 years of age, becoming a shoemaker at age 20. He is now 76 years old with 50+ years of actual experience.
     
    Last edited: Jul 29, 2013
  3. nutcracker

    nutcracker Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    I know there are several tanneries in Japan that make cordovan, the most famous being Shinki Hikaku. (http://www.shinki-hikaku.jp)
    Shinki's cordovans are widely used by domestic brands (Miyagi Kogyo, Regal etc...) as well as by cordwainers.

    Shinki's water-dyed cordovan (the ones used for shoes) do look different from Horween's Shell cordovan. Since they are water-dyed (whatever that means), the colors are slightly mottled, which makes them quite beautiful. The colors don't look as deep or as glossy to begin with (vs. Horween's shell), but they do develop the depth and sheen with age.

    Here some recent pictures I took of some Miyagi Kogyo (RTW) shoes in Shinki cordovan.

    [​IMG]
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  4. clee1982

    clee1982 Senior member

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    the interesting picture would be how they age, looks almost calf to me
     
  5. bozzkeren

    bozzkeren Senior member

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    @NC

    Could i ask your opinion about miyagi kogyo / central shoes?
    In terms of construction and finishing quality would you line them with carmina / CJ hangrade? or even with high end brand like EG / G&G?
    Thanks
     
  6. nutcracker

    nutcracker Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    Both Miyagi Kogyo (RTW) and Central shoes were modelled after English shoes to some degree. They're not on the same page as EG or GG, perhaps more comparable to Carmina and CJ Handgrade. Although C&J handgrades probably use better materials inside and out, I think MK and Central are as good in terms of construction and finishing quality. I've never tried on Central shoes, but I really dig Miyagi Kogyo's last (they're quite comfortable).

    Miyagi Kogyo's RTW sells for roughly ¥50~55K ($500~$550). Central goes from ¥55K~ ($550~)

    Some pictures of Miyagi Kogyo RTW shoes and Central shoes I took over the weekend:
    [​IMG]
    Miyagi Kogyo linup

    [​IMG]
    'Fujibana' MK Dover style

    [​IMG]

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    Central's whole cut

    [​IMG]
    Skin stitched heels.

    [​IMG]
    Can't really see here, but there is a subtle fiddleback waist.


    Here is a translation I did a while ago on the Dover-style shoes pictured above. Open link for better resolution

    [​IMG]
     
  7. bozzkeren

    bozzkeren Senior member

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    you see them at WFG right? i'm planning to visit them and trading post
    this trip to tokyo will be all about shoeseeing [​IMG]
     
  8. nutcracker

    nutcracker Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    It's hard to say how much more chiseled toes are being ordered over round toes, but I bet the former gets a lot more. Could be the shoemaker's preference, but it probably reflects the clients' tastes too. I know several shoemakers who say they personally prefer softer and rounder shapes, but keep getting orders for sleek square/chisel toes. Then there are shoemakers like Saion who I can't imagine making anything other than race-car grade shoes.

    Most shoemakers I've met are more than comfortable in making full, round toes. Hiro Yanagimachi, Marquess, Yuki Shirahama Bottier, Misawa & Workshop, and Benchmade (Yukiko B. Okawa) are some of the shoemakers I think are quite good at making round toed shoes. I've also seen some lovely round toed shoes being made by Spigola, Il Quadrifoglio, and even Yohei Fukuda.
     
    Last edited: Jul 30, 2013
  9. BespokeMakers

    BespokeMakers Senior member

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    Thanks N-C!

    The Warmthcrafts-Manufacture
    Finest quality genuine shell cordovan & horsehide leather products 
     

    Flagship Store @ Nakanoshima,Osaka

    http://shinki-hikaku.jp/2013/04/the-warmthcrafts-manufacture-banks.html
     [​IMG]
     
  10. BespokeMakers

    BespokeMakers Senior member

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    SPIGOLA CAPOLAVORO
    MTO Trunk Show@ bespoke SUIT110,Fukuoka JAPAN

    September 21 (sat) · September 22 (sun)

    bespoke SUIT110 http://b.iroiro.jp/eid/5327

    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
     
  11. nutcracker

    nutcracker Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    WOW! :fonz:

    When are you planning to visit? You may be able to bump into some trunk shows too...
    Yes, Central shoes and Miyagi Kogyo (RTW) area available exclusively @ WFG
    Let me know if you need help figuring out where those places are...
     
  12. bozzkeren

    bozzkeren Senior member

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    actually in 2 weeks from now, staying for a week in shinjuku
    places to drop in my itinerary is isetan (who wouldn't?), WFG, trading post, maybe some shops in ginza as well

    that's what i'm hoping for, trunk show in my visit
    hoping it would be spigola but i guess the timing don't match
    maybe next year visit in kansai area [​IMG]
     
  13. nutcracker

    nutcracker Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    ooo very very nice...

    If you're going to Ginza....
    Guild of Crafts, Yoshinoya, WFG, Scotch Grain, Trading Post, Lloyds, Sanyo Yamacho, Regal, and Saion are some of the places you may want to drop by (and without appointment)

    Yeah, you can easily spend a whole afternoon there just looking at shooz :drool:
     
  14. nutcracker

    nutcracker Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    Seki-san retired a little while ago, and some of his final works for Sanyo Yamacho are on display (or possibly even available for sale).
    Yokoyama (Saion), Takano (Clematis), and Tsukui (Lecott) are his former apprentices.

    Those are fascinating videos...too bad no sound!
     
    Last edited: Jul 30, 2013
  15. clee1982

    clee1982 Senior member

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    MK's Dover looks rounder than EG 606. Would you day the toe looks closer to GG's DG70?
     

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