Japanese Shoes: Bespoke & RTW Super Thread

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by nutcracker, Apr 4, 2013.

  1. BespokeMakers

    BespokeMakers Senior member

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    Ryota Hayafuji bespoke blind full brogue
    Japanese collector of finest bespoke shoes
    his amazing collection sur mesure: http://bespoke.exblog.jp/
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  2. chogall

    chogall Senior member

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    Always loved that blog.

    Very elongated pattern. And narrow feet.
     
  3. BespokeMakers

    BespokeMakers Senior member

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    That's right!
    Ideal shape of shoes[​IMG]
     
  4. nutcracker

    nutcracker Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    Fantastic collection indeed! All those shoes by Main D'or makes me.... :drool: Looks like all of his shoes share the elongated form.
     
  5. chogall

    chogall Senior member

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    No broguing. No gimping.
     
  6. bengal-stripe

    bengal-stripe Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    Actually, in English shoemaking terms (don't know about Japanese), a Blind Brogue is a faux brogue. Toe cap and heel counter are not separate pieces of leather laid-over, but solely a decorative double row of stitching with perforation in between.

    We had recently (in this thread) a beautiful sample of a Japanese "Blind Brogue" (but I can't remember the shoemaker's name). So, here is a picture of EG Inverness. Look, it's actually a plain toe with added wing-tip decoration.

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    The shoe by Ryota Hayafuji featured here are a variation on an Austerity Brogue, where, during the last war, perforation on shoes was considered wasteful of men hours and without any practical purpose and was thus not allowed. (just as, for example, turn-ups on trouser bottoms).
     
    Last edited: Jul 21, 2013
  7. nutcracker

    nutcracker Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    Fascinating! Somehow I always thought blind brogue = austerity brogue. :facepalm:


    Here's another example of faux brogues / blind brogues by Shoji Kawaguchi He does indeed call them blind brogues.

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    I've previously posted another pair by Ryota Hayafuji which has a similar 'austerity brogue' design as the one post above. He also called them 'blind brogues.' Interesting because he is also an English trained maker.
     
  8. chogall

    chogall Senior member

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    You are right. It's whole cut with perforations. I remember a cleverley model of the same thing. But I though the technical term for that is imitation brogue.

    p.s., I would love a whole cut imitation semi brogue. Maybe my next bespoke project.
     
  9. bengal-stripe

    bengal-stripe Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    "What's in a name?"

    John Lobb (London) talks about a 'Traced Brogue'

    "A rose by any other name would smell as sweet"
     
  10. nutcracker

    nutcracker Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    English Guild, supplier of industrial grade leather finishes to English shoe manufacturers JLP, C&J, Churches and others... have released a collection of shoe creams for consumer use in Japan. These would be sold nationwide, alongside the ubiquitous M.Mowbray brand polishes (distributed by the same company R&D)

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    Bees Rich Cream: available in neutral and black (more colors to follow)
    ¥2100 ($21 USD)

    Shoecare FANS
     
  11. nutcracker

    nutcracker Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    Today, I walked into Berlutti's Tokyo bespoke show (at their flagship store in Aoyama), and bumped into Anthony Delos. Didn't get to talk to him (he was tending to a bespoke order), but nevertheless, a pleasant surprise.

    M.Delos is currently doing his rounds across Asia, so check your local Berlutti if he happens to be in your neighborhood next :)

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  12. chogall

    chogall Senior member

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    Berluti now have a bespoke section on its website.

    JLP uses different fitter for different regions and maybe Berluti is the same way?
     
  13. BespokeMakers

    BespokeMakers Senior member

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    Last edited: Jul 23, 2013
  14. meister

    meister Senior member

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    Jeez that's one sleek sharp shoe.... [​IMG] Tarsal strapping mania.
     
    Last edited: Jul 23, 2013
  15. meister

    meister Senior member

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    Is this why lots of themo do internships in Europe?
     

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