Japanese Shoes: Bespoke & RTW Super Thread

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by nutcracker, Apr 4, 2013.

  1. Fiddler

    Fiddler Senior member

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    Ostrich legs are freaky.
     


  2. VRaivio

    VRaivio Senior member

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    That cordo-Russian pair follows a familiar note: the Japanese seem to favour very high heels. What's the usual heel height in Japan, nutcracker?
     


  3. BespokeMakers

    BespokeMakers Senior member

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    Last edited: Jul 15, 2013


  4. nutcracker

    nutcracker Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    Believe it or not, most Japanese manufacturers and shoemakers keep the heels to the standard 1 in (2.54cm) to 1.2 in (3cm) height. For nicer shoes (MTO and Bespoke), 3cm/1.2in seems to be more popular. My Spigolas and Il Quadrifoglios have 3cm/1.2in tall heels.

    The tallest I've seen are 3.3cm (1.3in) on a pair by Yuki Shirahama Bottier.
    [​IMG]

    Same shoe from different angles (from pics previously circulated among the blogsphere)
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    from shoe aristocrat

    The heels are 3.3cm, but it looks a lot taller from different angles due to the pitched profile (according to the bottier). He said he wouldn't consider making them any taller.



    and here is another angle of the Cordo/RC pair
    [​IMG]
    They look like 3cm to me, but could be a bit more.
     


  5. nutcracker

    nutcracker Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    wow you must be kiddin :D I know Mr. Fitzpatrick was trained in Italy, so maybe he knows Qnai san....
     


  6. tcideneb

    tcideneb Well-Known Member

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    Th

    Thanks for the reply
     


  7. BespokeMakers

    BespokeMakers Senior member

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  8. VRaivio

    VRaivio Senior member

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    This thread has quickly filled up with more and more exotic names. nutcracker, how many separate cordwainer shops does Japan offer?
     


  9. nutcracker

    nutcracker Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    The names that are listed on my OP post are really just a portion of all the separate cordwainers active in Japan, but they are the ones who have distinguished themselves from the pool. btw Bolero is on my OP list, and he is also featured on the new issue of LAST magazine.

    I suspect that it doesn't take too much other than a strong desire for a young cordwainer to open a shop.

    Just to give an idea, there are about 4 or 5 large shoemaking academies/schools (typically a 2yr curriculum) in Tokyo alone that primarily teach handmade shoemaking methods. From each school, dozens of students graduate each year (the Guild academy alone has 40 or more graduates each year), and I presume every one of them aspire to make a name as a shoemaker. Some of them take their training further (via apprenticeship), and many of them go right ahead and open a shop.

    Veteran shoemakers that I've talked to seem quite aware that the market is being saturated with upstart shoemakers, and they find this situation to be quite unfortunate. They know how tough it is to make a living out of making shoes, and they feel that many of them are too inexperienced and won't last a few years.

    Regardless of how tough it may be for newcomers, I believe some are bound to distinguish themselves, and I'm eager to see what they can come up with!! :)

    There are actually a few I'm keeping an eye on (yet to be introduced here).....
     
    Last edited: Jul 16, 2013


  10. nutcracker

    nutcracker Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    just a friendly reminder for my fellow expats living in Tokyo

    Isetan's Clearance Sale (aka the Mother of All Sales) starts today..... :)
     


  11. ThinkDerm

    ThinkDerm Senior member

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    any king sizes??
     


  12. chogall

    chogall Senior member

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    Reminds me of Carreducker. They even had their own school when the shoes they made are simply underwhelming... Whatever pays the bill I guess.
     


  13. mimo

    mimo Pernicious Enabler

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    I think Ms Carre and Mr Ducker just run a short (week or two weeks or something) introductory course a couple of times and year. I'd be surprised if any product of that was any more than "underwhelming"! And didn't they both work for JL before, rather that starting up post-apprenticeship?
     


  14. nutcracker

    nutcracker Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    Hi Fang,

    Regarding the Kamioka shoes, they stock up to size 9 (27cm) at the store. For a little extra (¥5000), they can do MTO up to size 10.5 (28.5). The store is located in the Daiichi Hotel in Shinbashi, may be worth a trip to see their collection (the shoes look better in person vs their online pics, plus more selection) :)

    I plan to do a detailed writeup on their collection / shoes soon, but perhaps on a new thread (since they're not exactly Japanese shoes)

    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
     
    Last edited: Jul 16, 2013


  15. Fang66

    Fang66 Senior member

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    Cheers nc.
     


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