1. And... we're back. You'll notice that all of your images are back as well, as are our beloved emoticons, including the infamous :foo: We have also worked with our server folks and developers to fix the issues that were slowing down the site.

    There is still work to be done - the images in existing sigs are not yet linked, for example, and we are working on a way to get the images to load faster - which will improve the performance of the site, especially on the pages with a ton of images, and we will continue to work diligently on that and keep you updated.

    Cheers,

    Fok on behalf of the entire Styleforum team
    Dismiss Notice

Japanese Shoes: Bespoke & RTW Super Thread

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by nutcracker, Apr 4, 2013.

  1. barky

    barky Senior member

    Messages:
    230
    Joined:
    Jul 7, 2013
    Yeah, will probably look for deadstock when the time comes around if Ilcea are not resurrected. One of the nicest green I've seen so far. How does it looks in sunshine?
     
  2. nutcracker

    nutcracker Senior member Dubiously Honored

    Messages:
    1,820
    Joined:
    Sep 6, 2010
    Location:
    Taipei
    

    :fonz: Thanks! TD


    It's a dark and subtle green, probably a shade darker/muted than the British racing green.
    The green does pop up in natural light (like in the pictures).
     
  3. chogall

    chogall Senior member

    Messages:
    6,564
    Joined:
    Aug 12, 2011
    its radica/museum calf, ya?
     
  4. nutcracker

    nutcracker Senior member Dubiously Honored

    Messages:
    1,820
    Joined:
    Sep 6, 2010
    Location:
    Taipei
    

    It's actually Moss Green from Ilcea's Horse Lux collection. Despite the name, its calfskin, not horse hide. :)
     
  5. nutcracker

    nutcracker Senior member Dubiously Honored

    Messages:
    1,820
    Joined:
    Sep 6, 2010
    Location:
    Taipei
    TYE Shoemaker by Tsuyoshi Ohno

    Single-piece Oxford Shoes

    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]

    These are the completed pair based on the trial shoes that I have previously documented.


    and some more pictures from TYE Shoemaker Blog / Diary....

    Trial shoes for a customer... A lovely pair of tarsal/ball strap driving shoes in 2 variations (for the client to choose)

    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]

    and the Artisan himself with his signature riding boots

    [​IMG]


    TYE Shoemaker Diary
     
    Last edited: Nov 2, 2013
    3 people like this.
  6. gambit50

    gambit50 Senior member

    Messages:
    438
    Joined:
    Apr 25, 2012
    Location:
    Hipster Doofusville
    Nutcracker, I must reiterate, you are smashing it with this thread.
    I will say that:devil: if you have a pair or three from every artisan you have posted, I will be somewhat envious.
     
  7. jasonmx3

    jasonmx3 Senior member

    Messages:
    191
    Joined:
    Jun 26, 2012
    Another winner, NC! Thanks for sharing all those beautiful pairs.
     
  8. nutcracker

    nutcracker Senior member Dubiously Honored

    Messages:
    1,820
    Joined:
    Sep 6, 2010
    Location:
    Taipei
    

    Thanks!
    but that would be quite a lot of expensive shoes.... :lol:



    Just digging for pics from the internet. :)
    The TYE bespoke is from their blog, not my shoes!!!!
     
  9. The False Prophet

    The False Prophet Senior member

    Messages:
    849
    Joined:
    Mar 10, 2006
    Location:
    Brisbane, Australia
    A quick question: does anyone happen to know when Isetan's January sale is going to be? I would like to try to be in Tokyo for it. If I recall correctly, the last one started on 18 January?
     
  10. nutcracker

    nutcracker Senior member Dubiously Honored

    Messages:
    1,820
    Joined:
    Sep 6, 2010
    Location:
    Taipei
    

    Yes, the mother of all sales in Japan (aka Isetan's Winter sale) started on Jan.18 this year, approximately 2 weeks after all other sales started. I was one of the 4000 people lining up the door prior to opening. (I did manage to get what I was eyeing at) :)
    I assume it will be held at a similar date for the upcoming Winter sale (yet to be announced)
     
    Last edited: Nov 3, 2013
  11. nutcracker

    nutcracker Senior member Dubiously Honored

    Messages:
    1,820
    Joined:
    Sep 6, 2010
    Location:
    Taipei
  12. nutcracker

    nutcracker Senior member Dubiously Honored

    Messages:
    1,820
    Joined:
    Sep 6, 2010
    Location:
    Taipei
    A Visit to Bench Work Studies, Tokyo

    Bench Work Studies is a shoemaking school founded in 2004 by Yukiko Bassett Okawa, an accomplished shoemaker best known for her tenure at Lobb St.James. I had a chance to visit the workshop during their annual 'Open Day', when student works are exhibited and alumni display their latest creations.

    [​IMG]


    [​IMG]
    Shoemaking procedures, from start to finish. Students learn at their own pace, either once or twice a week.

    [​IMG]
    1st year students learn the bottom making process, and are supplied with pre-made lasts and uppers. Last-making/carving and upper construction classes are offered for 2nd year+ students.

    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]
    Completed works. Casual students take a year or so to complete.

    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    Student works.


    Over the years, some of Okawa's students have taken their passions and made it into their professions.

    [​IMG]
    Alumni's works on display.
    In front: Inamori Kutsu
    Back: Annonymous

    and... some bespoke works by Okawa san herself, offered under the Benchmade brand. Okawa san is a graduate of the Cordwainers College, and subsequently became the first Japanese employed by Lobb St. James (for 8 years).

    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    Oxfords with straight caps.

    [​IMG]
    Golosh oxfords

    [​IMG]
    U-tip derbies with hand stitched sides

    Our friend Vraivio has a great interview with her on KEIKARI.



    Benchmade by Yukiko Bassett Okawa English Page
     
    4 people like this.
  13. chogall

    chogall Senior member

    Messages:
    6,564
    Joined:
    Aug 12, 2011
    I think I might have to talk to DW and make my own shoes!!
     
  14. nutcracker

    nutcracker Senior member Dubiously Honored

    Messages:
    1,820
    Joined:
    Sep 6, 2010
    Location:
    Taipei
    

    :)

    Those wholecuts made by DW's client/student (here) do indeed look awesome....
     
  15. Betelgeuse

    Betelgeuse Senior member

    Messages:
    5,073
    Joined:
    Sep 25, 2012
    Location:
    Mexico City
    This. I need to learn how to make shoes! [​IMG]
     
    1 person likes this.
  16. nutcracker

    nutcracker Senior member Dubiously Honored

    Messages:
    1,820
    Joined:
    Sep 6, 2010
    Location:
    Taipei
    Anonymous Shoes by Hidenori Akasaka

    On my visit to Bench Work Studies during their 'open house', I also met shoemaker Hidenori Akasaka. A former student of Yukiko Bassett Okawa, Akasaka currently runs his own workshop, Anonymous Shoes, not far from her studio. Though he never studied in the UK, his technical and stylistic foundation is decidedly English, and there may possibly be a bit of Lobb's DNA in him (passed to him by his teacher Yukiko Okawa). A pair of full bespoke shoes is offered for a generous price of ¥160,000 ($1600+ USD).

    [​IMG]
    Akasaka san stitching the sole.

    [​IMG]
    Anonymous bespoke samples on display.

    [​IMG]
    Elastic sides shoes in burgundy

    [​IMG]
    Workmanship is solid and crisp throughout. Thick leather shanks are used inside.

    [​IMG]
    Clean and shapely sole.

    [​IMG]
    Double soled plaintoes in Japanese cordovan

    [​IMG]
    Adelaide oxfords

    [​IMG]
    Delicate proportions

    [​IMG]
    Pitched/cuban heels

    Anonymous Shoes homepage
     
    Last edited: Nov 5, 2013
    3 people like this.
  17. Betelgeuse

    Betelgeuse Senior member

    Messages:
    5,073
    Joined:
    Sep 25, 2012
    Location:
    Mexico City
    Dammit... if I could only find someone that could make shoes like that around here. The price is ridiculous, it's great!
     
    1 person likes this.
  18. chogall

    chogall Senior member

    Messages:
    6,564
    Joined:
    Aug 12, 2011
    How willing are them taking repair/resolve orders or other handmade shoes from, say, Vass, SC, or various bespoke makers?

    It might be economically viable to ship shoes to Japan for a new heel/sole sewn by hand, foe closed welt or blind welt.
     
  19. nutcracker

    nutcracker Senior member Dubiously Honored

    Messages:
    1,820
    Joined:
    Sep 6, 2010
    Location:
    Taipei
    

    Quite a few shoemakers in Tokyo alone do exactly that. Shoe repair gives them steadier income vs order taking, especially if they're not well known, and yes, I've seen other shoemakers offer full hand bottom replacement for RTW shoes. The workshop mentioned above (Benchmade, Anonymous) do offer quick fitting alterations for your RTW shoes (stretching, insoles). Shoefitters

    Talking about high-end shoe repair, there is a new face in town. The fellow's name is Yamato-san, and he came back from Florence having apprenticed under Ugolini for a quite some time. He's doing shoe repairs full time (not shoe making), and I've heard good things about him from Mr. Qnai (also an Ugolini alumnus). You can find Yamato san working from the 2nd floor workshop @ World Footwear Gallery Ginza.

    [​IMG]

    World Footwear Gallery
     
    Last edited: Nov 5, 2013
    3 people like this.
  20. jerrybrowne

    jerrybrowne Senior member

    Messages:
    2,899
    Joined:
    Jul 29, 2009
    

    Nice.
     

Share This Page

Styleforum is proudly sponsored by