Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by nutcracker, Apr 4, 2013.
Ostrich legs are freaky.
That cordo-Russian pair follows a familiar note: the Japanese seem to favour very high heels. What's the usual heel height in Japan, nutcracker?
Justin FitzPatrick, The Shoe Snob on Pinterest
His favorite shoes
il Quadrifoglio Wholecut Oxford with Imitation Brogues for N-C.
Believe it or not, most Japanese manufacturers and shoemakers keep the heels to the standard 1 in (2.54cm) to 1.2 in (3cm) height. For nicer shoes (MTO and Bespoke), 3cm/1.2in seems to be more popular. My Spigolas and Il Quadrifoglios have 3cm/1.2in tall heels.
The tallest I've seen are 3.3cm (1.3in) on a pair by Yuki Shirahama Bottier.
Same shoe from different angles (from pics previously circulated among the blogsphere)
from shoe aristocrat
The heels are 3.3cm, but it looks a lot taller from different angles due to the pitched profile (according to the bottier). He said he wouldn't consider making them any taller.
and here is another angle of the Cordo/RC pair
They look like 3cm to me, but could be a bit more.
wow you must be kiddin I know Mr. Fitzpatrick was trained in Italy, so maybe he knows Qnai san....
Thanks for the reply
Bolero Bespoke shoe & Bootmaker
Camel Suede Adelaide
This thread has quickly filled up with more and more exotic names. nutcracker, how many separate cordwainer shops does Japan offer?
The names that are listed on my OP post are really just a portion of all the separate cordwainers active in Japan, but they are the ones who have distinguished themselves from the pool. btw Bolero is on my OP list, and he is also featured on the new issue of LAST magazine.
I suspect that it doesn't take too much other than a strong desire for a young cordwainer to open a shop.
Just to give an idea, there are about 4 or 5 large shoemaking academies/schools (typically a 2yr curriculum) in Tokyo alone that primarily teach handmade shoemaking methods. From each school, dozens of students graduate each year (the Guild academy alone has 40 or more graduates each year), and I presume every one of them aspire to make a name as a shoemaker. Some of them take their training further (via apprenticeship), and many of them go right ahead and open a shop.
Veteran shoemakers that I've talked to seem quite aware that the market is being saturated with upstart shoemakers, and they find this situation to be quite unfortunate. They know how tough it is to make a living out of making shoes, and they feel that many of them are too inexperienced and won't last a few years.
Regardless of how tough it may be for newcomers, I believe some are bound to distinguish themselves, and I'm eager to see what they can come up with!!
There are actually a few I'm keeping an eye on (yet to be introduced here).....
just a friendly reminder for my fellow expats living in Tokyo
Isetan's Clearance Sale (aka the Mother of All Sales) starts today.....
any king sizes??
Reminds me of Carreducker. They even had their own school when the shoes they made are simply underwhelming... Whatever pays the bill I guess.
I think Ms Carre and Mr Ducker just run a short (week or two weeks or something) introductory course a couple of times and year. I'd be surprised if any product of that was any more than "underwhelming"! And didn't they both work for JL before, rather that starting up post-apprenticeship?
Regarding the Kamioka shoes, they stock up to size 9 (27cm) at the store. For a little extra (¥5000), they can do MTO up to size 10.5 (28.5). The store is located in the Daiichi Hotel in Shinbashi, may be worth a trip to see their collection (the shoes look better in person vs their online pics, plus more selection)
I plan to do a detailed writeup on their collection / shoes soon, but perhaps on a new thread (since they're not exactly Japanese shoes)
Separate names with a comma.