Japanese Shoes: Bespoke & RTW Super Thread

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by nutcracker, Apr 4, 2013.

  1. bamboo

    bamboo Senior member

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    I drop by and asked to insert thin layer of insock to my MTO shoes. I did not take a picture but saw beveled like dainite sole which is quite impressive.
    Koji's grey croc loafers are even nicer seeing in person.
     


  2. nutcracker

    nutcracker Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    yes I think I saw those too. Not sure if they are shaped/glued to the contour of the sole, or if they are pre-shaped that way? Either way, I would like to see more of those from other makers too.
     


  3. BespokeMakers

    BespokeMakers Senior member

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    Koji wears these shoes regularly.
    Well aging [​IMG]

    http://www.rrozestt.co.jp/
    [​IMG]
     
    Last edited: Jul 9, 2013


  4. nutcracker

    nutcracker Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    A Visit to Kamioka Showroom / Kutsumigaki Honpo, Tokyo (preview!)

    Today, I dropped by the new showroom of Kamioka, the Taiwanese manufacturer of the Shinsho branded shoes that are available only in Japan. Some of you may also know Kamioka as the OEM manufacturer for several USA based (and SF approved) brands. Unfortunately, I was there on my way home, and only had my phone on hand (to snap some pics). I will return next week for an in depth report. The boutique (located on the lobby floor of a 5 star hotel in downtown Tokyo), shares the space with Kutsumigaki Honpo, a shoeshine parlor manned by the renowned 'Shoeshiner Ken'.

    [​IMG]
    Shinsho shoes. They're quite an interesting bunch of RTW shoes, priced ¥39K~. I'll write more on them next week.

    [​IMG]
    Among the RTW shoes, I was particularly impressed with this pair of loafers. A last reminiscent of EG 888, French calfskin, skin stitches, and closed channeled soles..... for ¥42,000 ($415).

    [​IMG]
    The soles are shaped and finished quite nicely.

    [​IMG]
    Handmade shoes (yes those are made with baby crocs).....Available for MTO soon

    [​IMG]
    More handmade shoes samples.

    [​IMG]
    Shoeshiner Ken! I'll be back next time for a detailed photo shoot of his polishing procedure.

    Many thanks to Ms.Chiba (Kamioka) and Shoeshiner Ken!

    Kamioka homepage
    Kutsumigaki Honpo homepage
    Shoeshiner KEN's blog
     


  5. Fang66

    Fang66 Senior member

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    Thanks once more for the fantastic posts nc.
    The web store only goes up to size 9, did you notice if they had larger sizes in the store?
     


  6. nutcracker

    nutcracker Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    Thanks Fang!

    Opps, I didn't pay attention to their sizes...I can ask them when I visit again next week. They're actually considering an MTO program with size/material selection, similar to what Miyagi Kogyo MTO does, so hopefully they'll have a wider range of size availability then.
     


  7. nutcracker

    nutcracker Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    Pattern Cutting, Clicking & Closing by Marquess

    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]

    If I recall correctly, those are Impala leather by Carl Freudenberg. I handled the hide in person, and the texture was simply amazing.
    I also love how they opted for no medallion to showcase the natural grain. I envy the owner :drool:


    Marquess blog
     


  8. bengal-stripe

    bengal-stripe Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    Now that's an interesting picture. It shows that Shoji and his wife are almost more English than the English.


    In English bespoke shoemaking (this does no apply to ready-to-wear) the leather underneath a toe cap or a heel counter is usually not cut away. This Adelaide with toe cap and counter is essentially a whole-cut (extending from the tip of the toe to the back of the heel all the way) with the cap and the counter laid over to form a double layer of leather in those sections. The silver lines show the outlines of the additional pieces.

    By contrast, must shoemakers outside of England cut the underlying leather away, leaving just an overlap of 3/8" (9 mm). Here is a sample by Marcell Mrasan (Koronya). The shoe is a different style (full-brogue Derby) but the principle remains. (The top row are the pieces for the outer leather, the bottom two pieces are the lining.) See how the leather underneath the toe cap is cut away; the same applies for the counter.

    I do not know about the French (I cannot recall having ever seen a pattern by one of of the French bespoke makers.) But the Continentals do cut the leather routinely away. (As do English factory-made shoes.) For them it is a shameful waste of materials, while English bespoke makers believe they can get a better, smoother toe (although possibly a smidgeon bulkier) by avoiding a cut and doubly skyved edge.

    The preference of Japanese shoemakers might depend on where they have learned their trade.
     


  9. BespokeMakers

    BespokeMakers Senior member

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  10. nutcracker

    nutcracker Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    Last edited: Jul 10, 2013


  11. nutcracker

    nutcracker Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    Its really something to hear that come from an Englishman, but evn more so, thanks for shsring your fascinating observation!
     


  12. bengal-stripe

    bengal-stripe Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    By the way, I'm not English, but I have been living in England for a very long time.
     


  13. ThinkDerm

    ThinkDerm Senior member

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    nutcracker, are people gearing up for the sales? anything available in king sizes? (UK 9.5 and up?)
     


  14. ThinkDerm

    ThinkDerm Senior member

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    nutcracker, are people gearing up for the sales? anything available in king sizes? (UK 9.5 and up?)
     


  15. nutcracker

    nutcracker Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    The sales are actually gearing towards the end (except for Isetan, which starts on 7/17)

    I've looked around, and shoe sales (in general) have been quite uninspiring. Unfortunately, not many choices for big sizes too (I asked Sanyo, Otsuka, and World Footwear Gallery for Miyagi Kogyo and Central Shoes). Isetan tends to have a wider range of sizes for sale, so I'll keep an eye on that.
     


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