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Japanese Shoes: Bespoke & RTW Super Thread

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by nutcracker, Apr 4, 2013.

  1. Fang66

    Fang66 Well-Known Member

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    Brilliant nc, thanks.
     
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  2. barky

    barky Well-Known Member

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    Appreciate it, NC!
     
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  3. nutcracker

    nutcracker Well-Known Member

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    SPIGOLA MTO Shoes
    Trunk Show @ United Arrows Roppongi Men's Store
    9/26~9/28

    Ah, Spigola... possibly the most coveted Japanese RTW/MTO shoes in the world. Sure the pictures on their website and on The Armoury look incredible, but those photos are meant to impress (with gorgeous makeups under calculated lighting, angles and such). Recently, I had the opportunity to document their (almost) entire lineup of MTO shoes with my mundane photographic skills and an average lighting. Perhaps these would give a better sense of what's available, and how they look in the real world lighting.

    Prices for the MTO shoes start from 108K JPY direct, and 120K JPY or so from the domestic trunk shows. They are all hand lasted, handsewn welted, and the waists are hand stitched (only the front portion of the sole is machine stitched). Aside from the machine stitched soles, all procedures are done by Suzuki-san and his small team of 3 craftsmen at their Kobe atelier. The sharp looking pret lasts (3 choices) are close replications of Spigola's famed bespoke lasts, and the leather selection (100+ leathers including rare exotics) are also identical from their bespoke offering. Sizes are available up to EU46 (UK 12 or so).

    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    So here they are, SPIGOLA MTO line in all their greatness.

    Click below for the full lineup.


    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    The incredible leather selection. A wide variety of textured leathers (mostly from Italy), exotics (llama, crocs, hippos etc...)

    [​IMG]
    Square toe and round toe. Essentially the same last, but the square toe is a smidgen longer.

    Oxfords
    [​IMG]
    Captoe oxford in black

    [​IMG]
    Half brogue oxford

    [​IMG]
    Adelaide oxford in suede

    [​IMG]
    Captoe oxford in lizard

    [​IMG]
    A great looking wingtips in the square toe last.

    Derbies
    [​IMG]
    U-Tip derby.

    [​IMG]
    Suede U-Tip derby in a bespoke last

    [​IMG]
    Plaintoe derby in genuine llama leather

    [​IMG]
    Plaintoe derby in another great textured leather

    Monks
    [​IMG]
    Double monk. Their most popular design

    [​IMG]
    Single monk. Wear it like slip-ons

    [​IMG]
    Double monk in a bespoke last

    Loafers and Chukka
    [​IMG]
    Elastic loafers. The newest addition to the MTO line.

    [​IMG]
    Elastics in tan croc

    [​IMG]
    Sleek chukkas in the square last

    [​IMG]
    Loafer in brown crocs. Bespoke last

    [​IMG]
    Loafers in those textured suede would look stunning

    The Soles
    [​IMG]
    The square toe last. Incredibly sleek, thanks to the handstitched waist

    [​IMG]
    The round toe last

    [​IMG]
    Dainite sole. Doesn't look bad at all

    [​IMG]
    I love how the dainite piece fits to the contours of the waist

    [​IMG]
    Original Spigola tree. 3-piece trees and tube-spring trees are also available

    [​IMG]
    Etsuo Suzuki. Brother of Koji, and an Italian trained shoemaker in his own right. He is in charge of the Tokyo shows.

    [​IMG]
    Mr. Suzuki with Mr. Shimizu, the shoe guru of United Arrows.

    Many thanks to Etsuo san and Shimizu san (@ United Arrows Roppongi Men's Store)
     
    6 people like this.
  4. sdolina

    sdolina Well-Known Member

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    Dear nutcracker, how do you compare the lasts of Spigola RTW/MTO shoes to the english lasts, like EG, GG, JL, C&J?
    I could buy a pair from the armoury but they refused to give any comparisons and said it will be a gamble.
    I can't afford a gamble for 2K bucks.
    I'm basically interested in a derby shoe on a last close to EG 82/202/606 in standard E width, what would you recommend?

    PS If such question was already answered could you please advise the thread?
     
  5. wurger

    wurger Well-Known Member

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    Nutcracker, thank you for the photo gallery, shoes shoes in them.
     
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  6. nutcracker

    nutcracker Well-Known Member

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    The lasts are probably more Italian than English in shape. The width is actually quite full (E width), despite the narrow look.
    For the square toed last, I went down a full size vs my GG/EG size, due to the elongated toe. The toe is quite pointed, more like G&G TG73.
    For the loafer last, I went 1/2 size down vs GG/EG.

    For either of the two pairs (that I've ordered), the fits weren't perfect for me due to my low instep, so I've had some kind of adjustments made.

    I haven't tried the round toe last (probably similar to 82), so can't really say about that one.

    I understand others have different experiences.

    Yeah, I wouldn't recommend getting these shoes via mail either. I don't even think they even offer their MTO shoes over the mail (I asked).

    I think The Armoury has a set of trial shoes with them the whole time, but I could be wrong.
     
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  7. coloRLOw

    coloRLOw Well-Known Member

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    [​IMG]
     
  8. bamboo

    bamboo Well-Known Member

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  9. nutcracker

    nutcracker Well-Known Member

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  10. bengal-stripe

    bengal-stripe Well-Known Member

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    Here is a google translation:

     
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  11. wurger

    wurger Well-Known Member

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    cheers for that, Rolf.
     
  12. nutcracker

    nutcracker Well-Known Member

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    Thanks for the translation, B-S! Appreciate it!

    Sounds quite eloquent, even after google translation. I couldn't have described better :D
     
  13. bengal-stripe

    bengal-stripe Well-Known Member

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    It is amazing how far these computer translations have come within a few years. Ten years ago, they only could come up with gobbledegook!.
     
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  14. VRaivio

    VRaivio Well-Known Member

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    Well, PG does have a grandiose way of choosing and combining words, even in their French to English translations. If you've seen Jacomet's interview with Kinowear, which you should, you know he's a man of passion and works with ideas, taking the form of clothing. It may just be Google's service acting up but the last I saw or read, Yukiko Okawa Bassett was of the womenfolk. The text uses him.
     
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  15. VRaivio

    VRaivio Well-Known Member

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    ...and I just noticed that PG has used Nutcracker's scanlations on their article. Did they ask for permission, nutcracker? If not, this is infringement of the naughtiest kind.
     
  16. nutcracker

    nutcracker Well-Known Member

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    Haha, the scanlations I did are copyright infringed too (towards the original Japanese publishers) :censored:
    and if I understand correctly, SF owns the rights to the materials posted here? so maybe he should have at least credited SF :lol:
     
    Last edited: Oct 3, 2013
  17. nutcracker

    nutcracker Well-Known Member

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  18. FlyingMonkey

    FlyingMonkey Well-Known Member

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    It's fair use anyway.
     
  19. nutcracker

    nutcracker Well-Known Member

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    Yeah, as long as no one is making money out of those materials, I have absolutely no qualms about the pics I took being reposted (I actually feel quite honored :)

    I have been told that some Japanese publishers have seen some scanlations I've done and posted on SF, and their reactions were...quite good, surprisingly :D
     
  20. FlyingMonkey

    FlyingMonkey Well-Known Member

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    I'm sure it does their sales no harm at all. It certainly reminded me to buy copies of several magazines!
     
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