Japanese Shoes: Bespoke & RTW Super Thread

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by nutcracker, Apr 4, 2013.

  1. gusvs

    gusvs Senior member

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    Thanks!
     


  2. ThinkDerm

    ThinkDerm Senior member

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    looks like st C
     


  3. ThinkDerm

    ThinkDerm Senior member

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    love all of these. reminds me of top line santoni
     


  4. nutcracker

    nutcracker Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    I think Fukuda uses Italian calfskin. His antique finished leathers do have the Italian type of expressiveness to them, yeah.

    You know what, those full brogues that looked greenish to me at the show and pic, may be his Black Antique finish. Heavily burnished, faded, greyish...looked a bit green to me but I could be wrong. quite distinctive colouring, nonetheless
     
    Last edited: Apr 7, 2013


  5. sstomcat

    sstomcat Senior member

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    First great post and pictures. Unfortunately Japanese Bespoke is little unheard of atleast in SF.
    I always heard Koji to be the undisputed king but it seems there in one better...:slayer:
     
    Last edited: Apr 7, 2013


  6. sstomcat

    sstomcat Senior member

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    All the pictures I see are oxfords, is derby not in vogue in Japan?
     


  7. Makoto Chan

    Makoto Chan Senior member

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    Derbies are infinitely more popular for most businessmen, as they're easier to slip on and off. That's an interesting observation, though! I imagine that because it's unusual, a nice oxford shoe is all the more luxurious and special.

    This is a great thread. Just catching up. Maybe this show will come down to Kansai.
     
    Last edited: Apr 7, 2013


  8. nutcracker

    nutcracker Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    Koji Suzuki has been active for 12 yrs or so, and I remember way back, he had so much backorders, he stopped taking new orders for 2 yrs or so?
    More recently, I've read that he became a director of footwear design in a big name Fashion brand (they will soon launch the collection designed by Suzuki)


    I talked with a bespoke maker about this. Clients often choose a perceived staple design for their first order (usually a classic pair of oxfords), and go for more casual shoes like derbies/loafers etc... for their 2nd and 3rd
    At least this seems to be the case in Japan.

    Here is a pic of a nice derby that I happened to snap at a trunk show.

    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    Il Quadrifoglio, 'German' derby
     
    Last edited: Apr 8, 2013


  9. nutcracker

    nutcracker Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    Makoto chan, nice observation. Black straight tip oxfords are often portrayed as the de-facto shoes for Japanese white collared workers. I know some companies do enforce wearing black straight tips. While I do see lots of handsome and well polished shoes in the streets, the vast majority of commuting white collared folks wear regular off the shelf shoes of all kinds....derbies or loafers, and oxfords. and yes, derbies (and loafers) are easier to take off. my dad never wears an oxford for the exact reason. I don't even know if he owns one.
     
    Last edited: Apr 8, 2013


  10. ThinkDerm

    ThinkDerm Senior member

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    Oxfords look so much better than derbies in my opinion
     


  11. ThinkDerm

    ThinkDerm Senior member

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  12. Coburn

    Coburn Senior member

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    Wonderful thread, Nutcracker. Thank you
     


  13. nutcracker

    nutcracker Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    name undisclosed...guess we have to wait 'til the launch....the article just says 'world renowned fashion brand', though I assume its' a Japanese brand...


    :fonz:
     


  14. BespokeMakers

    BespokeMakers Senior member

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    [​IMG] [​IMG]


    Koji Suzuki aka Spigola apron front derby and whole cut derby
    These shoes are simple design but distinctive style.
    Standard design often represents the workmanship.
     


  15. Verniza

    Verniza Senior member

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    I would think that's the most logical way to go.

    It's easy to make a non staple interesting but not so the other way round. It is a good test of a makers skill to create something simple yet beautiful.
     


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