Japanese Shoes: Bespoke & RTW Super Thread

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by nutcracker, Apr 4, 2013.

  1. nutcracker

    nutcracker Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    No pricing info yet.

    If you're wondering about the discount during the SALE, expect 30% and more
     


  2. nutcracker

    nutcracker Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    talking about sales, United Arrows just released their SUMMER SALE schedule.

    Sale starts 6/28 (stores + Amazon.co.jp store) Expect 30%+ off for Spring/Summer stuffs

    UA Harajuku Men's Store, and The Sovereign House (Marunouchi) offers the best selection.
     


  3. bozzkeren

    bozzkeren Senior member

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    hi, does anyone know which WFG carries the most complete collection?
    how about Union Imperial and Miyagi kogyo RTW, have anyone compared both? which one has more quality? i read UI use good leather such as annonay, doesn't miyagi kogyo uses mainly domestic leather? CMIIW
    thanks
     


  4. nutcracker

    nutcracker Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    The WFG in Harajuku is their flagship store. They should have the best selection.

    Union Imperial and Miyagi Kogyo RTW are two different animals. UIs are more Italian styled, and they are handsewn welted. Miyagi Kogyo's are more English/American, and they are goodyear welted. IMO Miyagi Kogyos are as good as C&J hand grade in construction quality.

    UI uses Annonay, but from what I understand, theres several levels/range in leather quality (and pricing) available from large tanneries (like Annonay). I'm doubtful that the Annonay you see here are equivalent to those used for high-end shoes and Bespoke shoes. I could be wrong though.

    Miyagi Kogyo uses top grade Japanese kip, which is essentially calf-skin in European standard. (The Japanese have a different age criteria for calf/kip etc...). I don't see it as anything less vs similar priced imported leather.

    WFG stocks both brands, so you're in luck. Also, try out the Central Shoes
     


  5. bozzkeren

    bozzkeren Senior member

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    @NC

    Central shoes have nice line-ups, one that caught my eye is the oxford tan brogues (from your post)

    [​IMG]


    i read that Central Shoes also makes sanyo yamacho right? have you handle both of them?
    how about otsuka shoes? what are your opinion for Otsuka M-5 line?
    thanks
     


  6. nutcracker

    nutcracker Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    At ¥55K or so, I think Central shoes are excellent if they fit you. They are shaped quite aggressively, with a tight fiddle back waist. Yes, Central indeed makes shoes for Sanyo Yamacho. They are made with Sanyo lasts and designs, and their high end models are priced a lot higher than Central's own shoes sold at the WFG. Central also makes the Corno Blu RTW shoes. Otsuka is a large shoe manufacture, and they offer several lines of shoes (under different names and price point). They also make the licensed Grenson shoes in Japan. Otsuka's signature RTW line, 'Otsuka Shoe Manufactures' are sold only at their flagship store in Roppongi. However, Otsuka M-5 is available via MTO only. I've handled some of their samples a few years ago, and they seemed very well made. Their newer, more adventurous designs are not my cup of tea, but I do really dig Otsuka's classic designs that seem unchanged for over a 100 years. Otsuka also does handmade MTOs and Bespoke.
     


  7. BespokeMakers

    BespokeMakers Senior member

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    Corno blu RTW Lizard-Stamped Penny Loafer “Lacerta” made by Central shoes.
    They are skilled factory workers in japan.
    [​IMG]
     


  8. nutcracker

    nutcracker Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    Nice photo B-M! :fonz:
     


  9. nutcracker

    nutcracker Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    Here's a good photo of a Sanyo Yamacho shoes. I scanned these from a recent MEN'S EX magazine

    Sanyo Yamacho by Central Shoes
    "Juichiro" Boots in R2010 last, Ilcea Calf, HAF soles
    ¥99,750 ($1000 USD)

    [​IMG]
     
    Last edited: Jun 18, 2013


  10. bozzkeren

    bozzkeren Senior member

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    Hi NC, could you give more info about this sulla forma MTO? Is it time limited offer?
    how long is the lead time? do they require multiple fitting or just trial fitting?
    how many shoe model and leather selection they have for the MTO?

    Thanks
     


  11. nutcracker

    nutcracker Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    With Corno Blu's Sulla Forma (MTO) program, you basically start by selecting from their ready made lasts and designs, but you are allowed to customise a whole lot more than any other factory made MTO shoes (IMO). You can alter the pattern as much as you want (or even make an original pattern from scratch with Mr.Seikaku), the last can be customised/personalised (and stored for future orders), and sizes are available in the increment of 0.25 cm pitch.
    The shoes are goodyear welted, and crafted by Central Shoes. Priced at ¥89,000 or so. I think the lead time is 3 months (with no fitting session)

    You also have the option to have them handmade (hand lasted and handsewn welted). If so, the shoes are crafted at the Corno Blu atelier. Priced from ¥138K

    You can check the RTW/MTO lineup here: http://cornoblu.ciao.jp/wordpress/?page_id=173. Not sure about their leather selection.
    Corno Blu's Sulla Forma MTO is available at all times at their Fukuoka atelier. Elsewhere, they are available only through trunk shows.

    I really like the shape of Corno Blu Bespokes, and their RTW/MTO shoes do seem to reflect his Italian sensibility. With all the customising options available, I think they are a viable alternative for those not willing to pay twice as much for full handmade MTOs.
     
    Last edited: Jun 19, 2013


  12. bozzkeren

    bozzkeren Senior member

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    i see,
    how about pattern order MTO at Beams Marunouchi? do they accept pattern order there or just RTW shoes?
    NC, you seem very very knowledgeable in shoes, your job is in this area? [​IMG]
    thanks again for your info
     


  13. bozzkeren

    bozzkeren Senior member

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    @NC
    thanks for your info [​IMG] what about pattern order MTO, are they also part of trunk show @ Beams?

    you seem very knowledgable and passionate about shoes
    does your job also in the sartorial world? [​IMG]
     


  14. nutcracker

    nutcracker Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    The Pattern Order MTO lets you choose the leather only, and from a limited choice of models (5 models for the BEAMS show). At ¥68K yen, they cost a bit more (¥10K) than regular RTW, and a lot less (¥20K) than the Sulla Forma.

    Nah, my knowledge base is really quite shallow, I just happen to live in Japan and enjoy looking (and something buying) shoes :lol:
     


  15. ThinkDerm

    ThinkDerm Senior member

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    like, a lot.
     


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