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Japanese Shoes: Bespoke & RTW Super Thread

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by nutcracker, Apr 4, 2013.

  1. TehBunny

    TehBunny Senior member

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    Bespoke Makers those Llama plain toe derbies are beautiful! Been following your blog from very early on and it's great keep it up!
     
  2. nutcracker

    nutcracker Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    I'm not usually drawn to plain toe derbies, but Spigola's plaintoes (or whole cut derby) are very tempting, especially with textured leathers....
     
    1 person likes this.
  3. BespokeMakers

    BespokeMakers Senior member

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    I appreciate it very much.I hope to continue our good relationship in the future.
    How about these shoes?
    [​IMG]
    Spigola goatskin whole cut derby
     
     
  4. Louis XIV

    Louis XIV Senior member

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    So far I like the chocolat brown split toe best of all shown derbies.
    Bespoke Makers, just bookmarked your tumblr, thanks for sharing all these pictures with us!
     
  5. Ilovelobbs

    Ilovelobbs Senior member

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    Hello Bespoke Maker - posting some more wholecut samples from your collection would be fantastic.

    Thanks
     
  6. VRaivio

    VRaivio Senior member

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    Does Styleforum have a thread of the year award? I demand one for nutcracker.
     
    3 people like this.
  7. sstomcat

    sstomcat Senior member

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    Well it depends. More so probably in Japan and the UK where oxford is the quintessential dress shoe. In US and other parts of Europe I feel a derby is equally formal.I'm not sure why you would call an oxford something special and luxurious, for me its just a preference which cannot be equated in terms of luxury. IMO
     
  8. sstomcat

    sstomcat Senior member

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    The fact that Japanese Bespoke makers are pushing for the first staple shoe in oxford is a testament to their skill and finesse. I have heard its the other way round in may parts of the globe.
    I like the derby above but not the back counter in croc and the heel, just me and my opinion...

    keep the pictures coming.
     
    Last edited: Apr 8, 2013
  9. ThinkDerm

    ThinkDerm Senior member

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    that wholecut derby is awesome.
     
  10. ThinkDerm

    ThinkDerm Senior member

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    that last seems too sharp in that photo.
     
  11. Ilovelobbs

    Ilovelobbs Senior member

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    [​IMG]AGREE.
     
  12. Ilovelobbs

    Ilovelobbs Senior member

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    I agree - the toe on those are amazing...
     
  13. nutcracker

    nutcracker Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    +1

    yes, depends on the culture
    in Taiwan loafers are the king. loafers everywhere :) if you want shoes for special occasion, you go for a more expensive loafers (lke crocs)

    You remember the JLP Bespoke 'World Cities' edition (or something like that?). I talked with the JL manager in Taipei (she designed the TAIPEI bespoke loafer), and she chose the loafer to represent the 'essence of Taiwan footwear' for the exact reason I wrote above. quite fascinating
     
  14. nutcracker

    nutcracker Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    Let's try to keep this thread will keep busy til the end of the year first :lol:
     
  15. clee1982

    clee1982 Senior member

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    it does make sense now you mention it, though I personally did not like that particular shoe. Is JL doing all right in Taiwan, I pass by the one in Bella Vita quite a few times, as far as I can tell, hardly anyone ever went in.
     
  16. nutcracker

    nutcracker Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    :lol:
    Yeah, Bella Vita is full of window shoppers. She said they're doing well, especially from 'young' customers in their 30's with growing taste for finer things.

    Last time I was there, I saw 2 Japanese men buying 2 pairs of shoes each (I say Taiwan JL is 15% cheaper than Japan). I hope they knew that JL shoes in Taiwan has a default EE width (wide fit). I believe JL shoes sold in Japan are standard E width.
    Knowing some Japanese prefer tighter fits, I hope they won't be disappointed later. :facepalm:
     
  17. clee1982

    clee1982 Senior member

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    Interesting, I thought there are more Asian with wider foot, especially around the toe. I personally would prefer all manufacture offer wider width (guess it doesn't help that one of my left foot is shorter and wider, while the right foot is longer and slimmer :satisfied: )

    My dad know a guy who used to retail for Testoni in Taiwan before Testoni decide to have their own presence. He had to show Testoni his own feet to convince the Italian to come up with either a different last or offering more width. That was more than 10 years ago.
     
  18. nutcracker

    nutcracker Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    I've asked a Japanese shoemaker about this. I told him, 'Asians have fat, wide feet.' but he thinks its more a matter of length than width. He considers asians to have generally 'shorter' feet than caucasians, hence proportion-wise, its naturally stockier. I guess he means asians with longer feet will naturally be narrower, and not massively wide?

    Yet Even among similar height asians, i think japanese feet are a bit slimmer than folks in taiwan. Thats from my observations. Perhaps its more lifestyle and environmental factors than genetics, not sure
     
    Last edited: Apr 8, 2013
  19. TehBunny

    TehBunny Senior member

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    I prefer the lighter colored llama plain toe derby as the toe (seems slightly square; usually hate soft square models but this one seems to have been nailed) and toe box as a whole looks supremely balanced; while the darker plain toe the chisel is too prevalent and in my opinion chisel toes do much worse on derbies then oxfords.
     
  20. gyasih

    gyasih Senior member

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    Which ones make the best RTW?
     

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