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Japanese Shoes: Bespoke & RTW Super Thread

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by nutcracker, Apr 4, 2013.

  1. nutcracker

    nutcracker Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    Yuki Shirahama Bottier Trunk Show (6/29~6/30)

    I had a chance to meet shoemaker Yuki Shirahama at his Tokyo trunk show over the weekend. Based in Fukuoka, Shirahama bottier is a relative newcomer to the bespoke scene (established 3 years ago), yet he already has a reputation for making some of the most exquisite shoes in Japan. An alumnus of Guild's shoemaking academy (Misawa-san from MISAWA & WORKSHOP is his classmate), and a former protege of Koji Suzuki (Spigola), he continued his training in Paris, at Altan Bottier. Having trained under Japanese / English / Italian / French shoemaking traditions, Shirahama-san is undoubtedly a versatile shoemaker. Yet it may be his ability to fuse the various influences, and to execute them in such high standard (the attention to detail & finish is simply superb), that makes him a rare and an extraordinary breed.

    The bottier's shoes are available for bespoke only, and are available direct from his Fukuoka studio, or through his trunk shows in Tokyo and Osaka. Price for the first pair is ¥294,000 yen, with a lead time of 6 months.


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    The Shirahama silhouette

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    Full brogue adelaides with a patinated finish. Has a different kind of charm vs English brogues

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    [​IMG]
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    A robust sole with a classic French proportion (and a big heel).

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    A pair of black chisel toes.

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    The profile looks infinitely sleek

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    The bottier's soles are among the prettiest I've seen.

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    We've seen this pair on the thread before. The heel is actually 1.3in tall

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    Fiddlebacks in black

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    A pair of navy semi-brogues. Looking sharp and ready for delivery.

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    Rubber soles done right

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    If you happen to need authentic French riding boots (or sandals), he got you covered

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    Mr. Yuki Shirahama

    Many thanks to Shirahama-san for his time!

    Yuki Shirahama Bottier
    http://ys-bottier.com
     
    5 people like this.
  2. clee1982

    clee1982 Senior member

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    Nice looking shoes, and yes rubber soles done right, that's what I do as well, except it cost me close to 80 dollars a pair to do it in NYC (metal flash tab + rubber sole on the front half)
     
  3. bengal-stripe

    bengal-stripe Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    1 person likes this.
  4. The False Prophet

    The False Prophet Senior member

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    Sadly I'm not back in Tokyo for a few months, and the only goat hair brushes I can find here are for horse grooming...
     
  5. nutcracker

    nutcracker Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    Thanks B-S!
    but geez, what don't you know? :lol:

    The 'wrinkles' are so packed they look more like an accordion. Fascinating structure
    Apparentely this is the house style of Altan Bottier

    [​IMG]
     
  6. bengal-stripe

    bengal-stripe Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    As I was born in the state of Hesse, I couldn't let this attribution to the French pass.

    After all, what did we Hessians give to the world: the Frankfurters and those boots! :D
     
    2 people like this.
  7. Ilovelobbs

    Ilovelobbs Senior member

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    Quote:Bengal you originally from Hessen? I go out to Hessen (Frankfurt) and NRW (Dusselfdorf) for business every month.....................The Hesse boots are some spanking piece of art...the zig zag folds, is it for any functional purpose or just aesthetics??
     
  8. Fang66

    Fang66 Senior member

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    Bags?
     
  9. clee1982

    clee1982 Senior member

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    Frankfurters!!!
     
  10. nutcracker

    nutcracker Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    I thought of the same thing, but I hesitated to write it out loud :lol:
     
  11. MakingTheNewMan

    MakingTheNewMan Member

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    I want this case, where and how can I purchase it? Thank you!
     
  12. nutcracker

    nutcracker Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    A heads up to those living in Osaka / Kansai area

    Corno Blu Trunk Show @ Coccinella boutique 7/5~7/6 (today and Saturday)

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    info/photo courtesy of Bespoke Makers
     
  13. FlyingMonkey

    FlyingMonkey Senior member

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    double post
     
    Last edited: Jul 5, 2013
  14. FlyingMonkey

    FlyingMonkey Senior member

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    I had a look in Tomorrowland in Shibuya yesterday (sale on right now...) and took a look at this range. They are generally really nice, and certainly this particular model is not representative of what is generally a very tasteful but sharply Italian-style collection. Good stuff and the prices are not too bad for this level of RTW.
     
  15. nutcracker

    nutcracker Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    Nice! btw how much were the Fukaya shoes? (I assume they are on sale). I recall seeing some really nice textured leathers.

    If you have a chance, check out the Hidetaka Fukaya bespokes at Tie Your Tie Aoyama (they have 30 or or Bespoke samples on display). They look phenomenal.
     
  16. nutcracker

    nutcracker Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    Another fine recraft job done by the folks @ RESH Nihonbashi, Tokyo

    Resoling a pair of C&J Handgrade SEYMOUR

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    Left: Brand new Belgrave
    Right: Used Seymour (for recraft)

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    Left: Brand new Belgrave
    Right: Seymour resoled with an identical grade JR sole

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    New

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    Recraft

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    Even the heel pins are done identical to the original

    Total price for the recraft: ¥21740 yen ($215 USD)
     
  17. chogall

    chogall Senior member

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    That's a very expensive recraft.
     
  18. nutcracker

    nutcracker Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    At RESH, a basic recraft with JR soles cost ¥16700. Then theres the addition for hidden channels, UK dove heels, and brass pins.
     
  19. chogall

    chogall Senior member

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    Compare to C&J recraft using original lasts and directly into the manufacturing process.
     
  20. nutcracker

    nutcracker Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    Yeah, for around the same price, C&J can do a total refurbishing (relast, rewelt, recork, reline, resole etc...). :)

    If theres any advantage of doing locally, RESH does the resole in 2 weeks.
     

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