Japanese Shoes: Bespoke & RTW Super Thread

[bboysdontcryy]



If available, I do get them, if they are not already included

The new JLP's RTW shoe trees look nice, but unlike StC, G&G etc...., they are not last specific. One model is supposed to fit all the lasts. (I asked the store manager)

Btw Hiro's lasted shoe trees (I believe they are hornbeam) go for ¥25K, sounds steep but actually in line for a Bespoke maker.

170 GBP is expensive for shoe trees indeed! Two pairs and you can buy a pair of C & J shoes (though not in Japan). But I've no doubt the trees are well-made etc.

Hiro's last isn't slim right (relative to say, Girling)? It's more of a comfort last.

 

[poorsod]

For reference G&G quoted 800-900 GBP for bespoke 3 piece boot trees. JLSJ has a price list for trees too. 170 GBP seems reasonable.

 

[bboysdontcryy]



For reference G&G quoted 800-900 GBP for bespoke 3 piece boot trees. JLSJ has a price list for trees too. 170 GBP seems reasonable.

800-900 GBP? No typo eh? Phew. That price makes 170 GBP sound cheap.

That 170 GBP was a Japanese maker's "RTW" lasted shoe trees, so I was comparing it with Girling's 115 GBP (VAT inclusive), Vass's (60-80 euros), Cleverley's (90 + GBP).

 

[poorsod]

This is a comparison with the prices from John Lobb. Look at the prices for the bespoke trees.
http://www.johnlobbltd.co.uk/main/pricelist.htm

 

[bboysdontcryy]



This is a comparison with the prices from John Lobb. Look at the prices for the bespoke trees.
http://www.johnlobbltd.co.uk/main/pricelist.htm

Sheesh. I'd never have guessed English bespoke shoemakers like Lobb and Girling charge these incredulous sums for their trees.

Edit: In retrospect, it makes sense because these bespoke shoe trees are probably like making a new last, and they have to sand it to size.

 

[chogall]

Included for G&G. Not for JLST.

Lasted bespoke trees are pretty different beast than regular English RTW trees

 

[ShayaEXQT]

Quote:

This is a comparison with the prices from John Lobb. Look at the prices for the bespoke trees.
http://www.johnlobbltd.co.uk/main/pricelist.htm

500 pounds for a pair of shoe trees!! There are plenty of people that wouldn't even spend that on a pair of shoes.

 

[nutcracker]



Sheesh. I'd never have guessed English bespoke shoemakers like Lobb and Girling charge these incredulous sums for their trees.

Edit: In retrospect, it makes sense because these bespoke shoe trees are probably like making a new last, and they have to sand it to size.

Hiro's lasted shoe trees for these MTO shoes are identical in quality to his Bespoke shoe trees (¥30K yen), but a bit more inexpensive because they are made in a batch (from the MTO base last)

I've seen them in person. Not anything fancy or deeply shaped like St.C., but at least they fit the shoes.

Hiro's MTO last isn't slim but they seem to fit quite snuggly where it should.

They can adjust the fit using custom insoles, but I assume you have to be there in person.

pics from Hiro's FB page

 

[nutcracker]

G&G Bespoke includes shoe trees, but I recall they charge 250 GBP to make an additional pair.

 

[Journeyman]



Sheesh. This is a veritable treasure trove for clothing enthusiasts *** prospective tourists who intend to call upon Japan. No way one could gain access to all this information just by scouring the net/guidebooks. Now, if only there were a Japanese clothing thread as well -- have heard that the Japanese are fastidious over details and make exceptional clothing/suits.

Well, quite a few of the places that Nutcracker has kindly documented also sell clothes (Beams, EstNation and a lot of the other stores).

You're certainly right that Tokyo has an astounding selection of great menswear stores, ranging in price from downright affordable to absolutely sky-high! They also have some extremely good sales from time to time - I still regret not picking up a pile of Holliday & Brown silk print ties when they were on sale for Y5000 at a department store in Ginza a few years back. I've also seen Finamore shirts on sale for Y10000, which is fantastic value (but unfortunately they were all far too small for me).

I love taking a wander around places like Harajuku/Aoyama and Ginza/Yurakucho when I'm in Tokyo as there are so many lovely stores, both large and small, with a great range of products and a lot of the employees are really well-informed and passionate about the clothing that they sell. I had a great discussion with a salesman at the Brooks Brothers store in Yurakucho, where we exchanged English and Japanese terms for "working buttonholes" and "floating canvas".

The flip side to this wonderful line-up is that prices are exceptionally high in Japan. It's not uncommon to see scores of Japanese tourists snapping up Cleverly shoes, Hermes bags etc over here in London. A friend who visited Japan was astounded at the prices Cleverly shoes sell for over there.

Yes, imported shoes in particular are very expensive in Japan, particularly US and British shoes. Curiously, Italian-made shoes don't seem to be as outrageously priced.

 

[nutcracker]



Well, quite a few of the places that Nutcracker has kindly documented also sell clothes (Beams, EstNation and a lot of the other stores).

You're certainly right that Tokyo has an astounding selection of great menswear stores, ranging in price from downright affordable to absolutely sky-high! They also have some extremely good sales from time to time - I still regret not picking up a pile of Holliday & Brown silk print ties when they were on sale for Y5000 at a department store in Ginza a few years back. I've also seen Finamore shirts on sale for Y10000, which is fantastic value (but unfortunately they were all far too small for me).

True Indeed!

Isetan/Mitsukoshi, Beams, UA, Barneys etc... have these Members invitation only sales throughout the year. I've been to an Isetan one before. Mostly stuffs from a year ago, but prices go from 50% to 80% off for some really good stuffs (not just odd fits and colors).

 

[terrorsquad]

Nutcracker, what are your thoughts on Masaru Okayama shoes?Does he offer RTW shoes?

 

[nutcracker]



Nutcracker, what are your thoughts on Masaru Okayama shoes?Does he offer RTW shoes?

Okuyama-san does Bespoke only, and from what I've seen (from pictures), his works look quite impressive. He prices his shoes quite high (HKD 38000, or ¥495K yen / $4900 USD), and I can only assume that the extra $$$ reflects on the service and the quality of finish.

He lives in Hong Kong, and from what I know, he has already amassed a large list of clientele from Hong Kong and the rest of Asia. His shoes aren't available in Japan (no trunk shows yet).

Check out the interview by our very own VRaivio, published on Keikari.com.
http://www.keikari.com/english/interview-with-masaru-okuyama/

I know some of our SF members owns Okuyama's shoes, and have posted before on the Hardcore thread.

 

[nutcracker]

There is a Corno Blu MTO and Bespoke Trunk Show starting today @ BEAMS House Marunouchi.
Pattern Order (MTO) selection features slip-ons for the summer season. Sizes available with a quarter (1/4) pitch. ¥68K yen~
Sulla Forma MTO (or Full MTO) allows you to design a pattern from scratch (with an appointment with Mr.Seikaku). For ¥89K yen~
or you can go full Bespoke for ¥336K

Some new models available for MTO

 

[nutcracker]

A Visit to Clematis, Tokyo Part 1

Having seen quite a lot of English and Italian styled shoes recently, I was quite curious to see some home bred Japanese Bespoke at its finest. So I naturally knocked on the doors of Clematis Ginza. I made an appointment for viewing, and was greeted with a warm welcome by shoemaker Keitaro Takano.

I already knew of his stellar reputation, in terms of quality and craftsmanship, but I was greeted with much more. In short, I found his shoes to be delightfully distinctive, sometimes whimsical, and yet undoubtedly elegant.

Located in a quiet corner of the busy Ginza district

The showroom with an impressive display of shoes. The brand color 'green' quickly grows on you.

Without further ado, lets get right into some Clematis magic....from the "Red Line" Collection.

Plaintoe oxford in burnished lizard. The 'Red Line' collection is Clematis' test ground for new ideas.

The lizard skin has been sanded / burnished to a nubuck like texture.

A slick blood red sole.

The Clematis heel. The detailing is amazing.

Lizard in a blue-ish tint. The color looks subdued and classy in a way. The toe and the heel are left slick and polished

with a blue sole....

Full Brogues from the 'Red Line'. with an unique red stained edge

More examples of Clematis's full handmade shoes.

A bootie with a calf/suede combo. The lacestay portion is stained darker.

A whole cut elastic slip-on with full imitation brogues.

Takano-san doesn't use marking wheels. Yes, they are all individually marked by hand.