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Japanese Shoes: Bespoke & RTW Super Thread

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by nutcracker, Apr 4, 2013.

  1. BespokeMakers

    BespokeMakers Senior member

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    ICHO made by TYE shoemaker
    Bespoke Linen & Box Calf Spectator Shoes
    ICHO on FB
    [​IMG]
     
    1 person likes this.
  2. Ilovelobbs

    Ilovelobbs Senior member

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    NC - what are Spigola MTO prices again.

    I was in HK couple of weeks back but couldn't find the time to pop into Tokyo....
    Will have to be another 4-6 months before I go back.
     
  3. BespokeMakers

    BespokeMakers Senior member

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    Last edited: Jun 20, 2013
    1 person likes this.
  4. nutcracker

    nutcracker Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    Did you get to visit thearmoury? A pretty nice store, I got my fox umbrella there :)

    Spigola goes for ¥126,000~ (incl. 5% vat) at the Tokyo Trunk Show. That is equivalent to around 830 GBP / 9,970 HKD in today's exchange.

    Costs about ¥20K less if ordered direct at Suzuki's Kobe atelier. A round trip from Tokyo to Kobe (via train) costs more than that, so I guess I can't complain :fonz:
     
    Last edited: Jun 20, 2013
  5. nutcracker

    nutcracker Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    The description says they're wholecut shoes. I suppose those calf pieces / straps were stitched over the suede linen upper. Fascinating shoes.
     
    Last edited: Jun 20, 2013
  6. bengal-stripe

    bengal-stripe Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    There will be a seam, if not an entire heel piece (linen is not as easily manipulated as leather), hidden under the beige 'counter strap'.


    Or a pair of sandals that's gone wrong? :D
     
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  7. nutcracker

    nutcracker Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    :lol: to me they look like a thick mustache.
    I'm sure there must be a precedent to this design, but still, quite cleverly put together.
     
  8. clee1982

    clee1982 Senior member

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    linen, interesting, how did it keep the shape
     
  9. bengal-stripe

    bengal-stripe Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    Shoe uppers made from fabric get normally an an additional 'backer' to give the material more body and a firmer handle. This might be an a thin leather, glued over the entire surface of the fabric or a heat-fused interlining (as in tailoring).
     
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  10. Fang66

    Fang66 Senior member

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    Last edited: Jun 20, 2013
  11. clee1982

    clee1982 Senior member

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    good knowledge, thanks!
     
  12. Ilovelobbs

    Ilovelobbs Senior member

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  13. Ilovelobbs

    Ilovelobbs Senior member

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    Quote:£800 GBP decent value for Japan. I'll need to prep before I travel next. Was only in HK for 4 days and dying to get home - bloody 32C everyday but felt like 50C with the rain and humidity. Don't know how people where nice shoes & suits in those condition. Had to shower every 2 hours..... Didn't have time to visit any shops...
     
  14. nutcracker

    nutcracker Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    A Visit to Brift H, Tokyo

    Since opening its doors 5 years ago, Brift H (founded by the shoe shiner extraordinaire Yuya Hasegawa) has become a model/standard for countless of other shoeshine parlors to imitate. I've been their happy customer for quite some time (for shines and repairs), and this time I brought my camera along with my shoes to polish.

    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    A bar-like setting with counter seats (with complementary drinnks). Cozy and stylish

    [​IMG]
    Saphirs and Tapirs. They also carry custom Edoya brushes.

    [​IMG]
    Over the counter: Brift H's original cream polishes

    [​IMG]
    Brift H's mascot, a fox

    www.brift-h.com
    Brift-H FB
     
  15. nutcracker

    nutcracker Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    Shoe Shine @ Brift H

    The fabulous Kitami-san (store manager) worked his magic on my Il Quadrifoglio (worn lightly, but they needed a high shine badly :))
    I managed to take some pictures to show the (almost) entire process. Enjoy and learn! (picture heavy!!)

    [​IMG]
    Unlacing the Shoes

    [​IMG]
    The interior/lining is conditioned using a light conditioning cream (Colonil 1909)

    [​IMG]
    Sponge tipped trees (by Hartmann) are inserted

    [​IMG]
    Dusting off with a Horsehair bush

    [​IMG]
    Freshening up the surface with a light cleaning lotion

    [​IMG]
    Brift H's original cream polish in mahogany

    [​IMG]
    Hand rubbed....

    [​IMG]
    Forcing the cream into the pores with a bristle brush

    [​IMG]
    Excess cream removed / buffed to a moderate shine.

    [​IMG]
    Now the magic begins. Polish time!

    [​IMG]
    Wax polishes (Saphir) are rubbed in with bare fingers

    [​IMG]
    Wrapped securely around the fingers

    [​IMG]
    A tap of water, and a smidgen of polish

    [​IMG]
    Working on it

    [​IMG]
    Nice shine, but not nearly finished

    [​IMG]
    At the 90% mark, the goat hair brush kicks in to smooth out the streaks

    [​IMG]
    With a few more rounds of brushing and rubbing, it's almost done

    [​IMG]
    Slick and shiny!

    [​IMG]
    Finally, some oil for the soles

    [​IMG]
    Done! The whole process (+chatting) took 40 minutes

    my thanks to Mr. Kitami for the awesome shine!

    www.brift-h.com
    Brift-H FB
     
    3 people like this.
  16. bozzkeren

    bozzkeren Senior member

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    my god, that shine just like metallic colour
    with lighting effect that mahogany turns like bordeaux
    magnificent work
     
  17. clee1982

    clee1982 Senior member

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    cool looking store, though that fox looks like a cat to me...
     
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  18. clee1982

    clee1982 Senior member

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    awesome, so what's the "bristle brush" you're talking about after dusting with horsehair brush. I always just use the same horsehair brush for dusting then make sure it's clean before I use it for buffing. Also do you see a real difference between goat hair brush and horsehair brush? I don't think I can find goathair brush easily in the states. Great shine by the way, but at 40 minutes a pair is not what I would normally do consider the size of my collection...
     
  19. nutcracker

    nutcracker Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    Pig bristles brush. The guy used it after the cream polish was applied. It's kinda tough and springy, and are supposed to force the cream polish into the pores, while removing the excess.

    Goat hair brushes are much softer than horsehair. He used the brush (with a lil water on it) for the final buffing. It really seemed to eliminate the streaks/swirls left by hand polishing, but I'm sure it needs some practice. Colonil sells one, and are available through ebay? not sure. I think a lambswool mitten does an equally good job.

    BAL WORKS, another fine shoe repair shop in Tokyo, uses similar (but not the same) Edoya brushes as Brift H, but they don't include bristle brushes in their regimen.

    I've also seen old school shoe shiners who only use pig bristle brushes and some rags to get some serious shine.

    Yeah, one horsehair brush (and maybe some rags for polishing) should be adequate for maintaining shoes.
    Personally, I only use a brush (horsehair) for dusting, and use a cloth/rag for the rest (same rag for polishing and buffing). Takes 5 minutes or so. I'm getting too lazy to do a high shine (I rarely use a wax polish), so that's all I really need.
     
  20. clee1982

    clee1982 Senior member

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    yea I rarely use wax unless I am attending a wedding or something, mostly cream these days.
     

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