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Japanese Shoes: Bespoke & RTW Super Thread

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by nutcracker, Apr 4, 2013.

  1. nutcracker

    nutcracker Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    At ¥55K or so, I think Central shoes are excellent if they fit you. They are shaped quite aggressively, with a tight fiddle back waist. Yes, Central indeed makes shoes for Sanyo Yamacho. They are made with Sanyo lasts and designs, and their high end models are priced a lot higher than Central's own shoes sold at the WFG. Central also makes the Corno Blu RTW shoes. Otsuka is a large shoe manufacture, and they offer several lines of shoes (under different names and price point). They also make the licensed Grenson shoes in Japan. Otsuka's signature RTW line, 'Otsuka Shoe Manufactures' are sold only at their flagship store in Roppongi. However, Otsuka M-5 is available via MTO only. I've handled some of their samples a few years ago, and they seemed very well made. Their newer, more adventurous designs are not my cup of tea, but I do really dig Otsuka's classic designs that seem unchanged for over a 100 years. Otsuka also does handmade MTOs and Bespoke.
     
  2. BespokeMakers

    BespokeMakers Senior member

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    Corno blu RTW Lizard-Stamped Penny Loafer “Lacerta” made by Central shoes.
    They are skilled factory workers in japan.
    [​IMG]
     
    1 person likes this.
  3. nutcracker

    nutcracker Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    Nice photo B-M! :fonz:
     
  4. nutcracker

    nutcracker Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    Here's a good photo of a Sanyo Yamacho shoes. I scanned these from a recent MEN'S EX magazine

    Sanyo Yamacho by Central Shoes
    "Juichiro" Boots in R2010 last, Ilcea Calf, HAF soles
    ¥99,750 ($1000 USD)

    [​IMG]
     
    Last edited: Jun 18, 2013
    1 person likes this.
  5. bozzkeren

    bozzkeren Senior member

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    Hi NC, could you give more info about this sulla forma MTO? Is it time limited offer?
    how long is the lead time? do they require multiple fitting or just trial fitting?
    how many shoe model and leather selection they have for the MTO?

    Thanks
     
  6. nutcracker

    nutcracker Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    With Corno Blu's Sulla Forma (MTO) program, you basically start by selecting from their ready made lasts and designs, but you are allowed to customise a whole lot more than any other factory made MTO shoes (IMO). You can alter the pattern as much as you want (or even make an original pattern from scratch with Mr.Seikaku), the last can be customised/personalised (and stored for future orders), and sizes are available in the increment of 0.25 cm pitch.
    The shoes are goodyear welted, and crafted by Central Shoes. Priced at ¥89,000 or so. I think the lead time is 3 months (with no fitting session)

    You also have the option to have them handmade (hand lasted and handsewn welted). If so, the shoes are crafted at the Corno Blu atelier. Priced from ¥138K

    You can check the RTW/MTO lineup here: http://cornoblu.ciao.jp/wordpress/?page_id=173. Not sure about their leather selection.
    Corno Blu's Sulla Forma MTO is available at all times at their Fukuoka atelier. Elsewhere, they are available only through trunk shows.

    I really like the shape of Corno Blu Bespokes, and their RTW/MTO shoes do seem to reflect his Italian sensibility. With all the customising options available, I think they are a viable alternative for those not willing to pay twice as much for full handmade MTOs.
     
    Last edited: Jun 19, 2013
  7. bozzkeren

    bozzkeren Senior member

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    i see,
    how about pattern order MTO at Beams Marunouchi? do they accept pattern order there or just RTW shoes?
    NC, you seem very very knowledgeable in shoes, your job is in this area? [​IMG]
    thanks again for your info
     
  8. bozzkeren

    bozzkeren Senior member

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    @NC
    thanks for your info [​IMG] what about pattern order MTO, are they also part of trunk show @ Beams?

    you seem very knowledgable and passionate about shoes
    does your job also in the sartorial world? [​IMG]
     
  9. nutcracker

    nutcracker Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    The Pattern Order MTO lets you choose the leather only, and from a limited choice of models (5 models for the BEAMS show). At ¥68K yen, they cost a bit more (¥10K) than regular RTW, and a lot less (¥20K) than the Sulla Forma.

    Nah, my knowledge base is really quite shallow, I just happen to live in Japan and enjoy looking (and something buying) shoes :lol:
     
  10. ThinkDerm

    ThinkDerm Senior member

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    like, a lot.
     
  11. nutcracker

    nutcracker Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    [​IMG]
    Mr. Kitami Kenji
    Shop Manager, Brift H


    I'll post my report on Brift H soon
     
  12. ThinkDerm

    ThinkDerm Senior member

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    Love these boots. are they handmade?
     
  13. nutcracker

    nutcracker Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    They're factory made / good year welted.
     
    Last edited: Jun 19, 2013
  14. Fang66

    Fang66 Senior member

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    I could see myself in a pair of those.
     
  15. nutcracker

    nutcracker Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    Both of you are out of luck. They only make these up to size 9 (US).
     
  16. bozzkeren

    bozzkeren Senior member

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    @NC
    where can we see that Sanyo Yamacho "Juichiro"? is it exclusive item?
     
  17. nutcracker

    nutcracker Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    I think I've listed all the stores that carry Sanyo Yamacho shoes (from my previous posts on Tokyo shopping)
    The two stores below are probably your best bet.

    Isetan MENS's store has a fairly comprehensive collection of Sanyo shoes.
    There is also a Sanyo Yamacho flagship store in Ginza. I've been there, and it's quite large. I think they carry the entire collection.
     
  18. nutcracker

    nutcracker Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    Anyone (in Tokyo) thinking about ordering a SPIGOLA MTO? The trunk show starts tomorrow (till Saturday) @ United Arrows Roppongi Men's Store
     
  19. bozzkeren

    bozzkeren Senior member

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    NC, if you're going to Spigola MTO, can you help ask Mr. Suzuki when the next scheduled Trunk Show in Tokyo? [​IMG]
    thanks
     
  20. nutcracker

    nutcracker Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    Not sure if I'll go. The next show will be 4 months from now, around October 20th.
     
    Last edited: Jun 20, 2013

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