Japanese Shoes: Bespoke & RTW Super Thread

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by nutcracker, Apr 4, 2013.

  1. bboysdontcryy

    bboysdontcryy Senior member

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    Yes. Wow That's a rather significant 500 GBP difference if you ask me. Worth flying to Tokyo and visit the places, and have the shoes made up there!

    Have heard many gd things abt these Japanese shoemakers -- that their finishing on the shoes are the best bar none.

    Are Suzuki's MTO shoes hand-welted?
     
    Last edited: May 21, 2013


  2. nutcracker

    nutcracker Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    Yes, they are hand lasted and hand sewn welted. The bottoms are machine stitched (for their basic price), but it doesn't look shabby at all (mine is machine bottomed).
     


  3. bboysdontcryy

    bboysdontcryy Senior member

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    You'd recommend Suzuki as an entry point to the world of Japanese-made shoes?

    Who's Inoue Shinkai and Osaka Masamune btw? LOL.
     
    Last edited: May 21, 2013


  4. nutcracker

    nutcracker Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    Quite a few Japanese bespoke makers offer MTO shoes, and are priced relatively similar to Suzuki's (¥100K ~ ¥200K range). It's really a matter of taste. Spigola's are quite Italian in flavor (and fit). I personally dig the look, but it may not be suited for everyone, IMO. Some makers accommodate fitting / last customisations, and as far as I know, Spigola MTO doesn't offer that.

    But one thing I am certain is that Spigola has the best leather selection out of all Japanese makers.

    Masamune and Shinkai are Japanese sword makers. You probably heard the names from old Nintendo / PS games like FF.... :lol:
     
    Last edited: May 21, 2013


  5. BobbyBagstein

    BobbyBagstein Active Member

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    Those are breathtaking...perfect.
     


  6. nutcracker

    nutcracker Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    Visit to Hiro Yanagimachi Workshop, Tokyo Part 1

    I had a chance to visit and try Hiro Yanagimachi shoes this past weekend.
    Formerly an industrial designer, and trained at the Cordwainer's College in UK (he graduated first in class), Bespoke shoemaker Hiro Yanagimachi has been a major presence in the Tokyo Bespoke scene since opening his workshop in 1999. Today, he heads a small group of highly trained craftsmen (ie his apprentices) from his spacious atelier in Harajuku.

    Though the studio is relatively large (5 to 7 personals) compared to most Bespoke operations in Japan (2 or 3 man jobs), Yanagimachi makes sure each team member takes a broad role/responsibility to strengthen the group synergy. The result is a very smooth work flow and an incredible degree of quality control that Hiro's shoes are renowned for.

    [​IMG]
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    The showroom (adjacent to the workshop space)

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    Quiet Sunday afternoon....the workshop was closed....The place is so tidy, yet quite homey

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    Upper construction tables.

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    Testing out a new pattern

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    Ziipppp! Leather pieces are thinned with this contraption.

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    Bottom making worktables.....

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    A customised last (for boots)

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    Due to the high humidity, plastic last is preferred by many Japanese shoemakers....they are easily shaped and are quite durable

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    Japanese forge welded tools.....well honed

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    Hiro Yanagimachi and Ms. Konomi Egawa, Pattern Cutter / Closer

    www.hiroyanagimachi.com
     
    Last edited: May 21, 2013


  7. nutcracker

    nutcracker Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    Hiro Yanagimachi Workshop, Tokyo Part 2

    The semi-annual Pattern Order Fair is currently running from 5/18 to 6/2, and the atelier is open for anyone to visit. Limited to 5 staple designs and 5 leathers to select, these MTO shoes are handsewn welted, machine soled, and shares the same quality standard Hiro's Bespoke shoes are known for. Due to the limited run, these limited MTO shoes are priced ¥30K ($300) lower than his regular MTO shoes (good news). Price starts from ¥115,500, or $1150 USD.

    Full handmade MTO shoes (with over 50 designs to choose from) and full Bespoke shoes are available for order at all times.

    Bespoke and MTO Samples

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    Saddle Loafer in Croc: quite stunning....

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    Baby Croc Detail

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    Chukka Profile

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    Single Monk....simple and refined

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    Bevelled Waist....Crisp details

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    Wingtip Boots: Classic Country
    The casual / country shoes lineup is quite strong for a Japanese bespoke.


    Pattern Order Fair Samples MTO Shoes, Handsewn Welted

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    5 Models and 5 Leathers

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    Ghillie oxfords, Hiro Yanagimachi's signature design

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    Apron Derby

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    Full brogues

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    Punched Captoes

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    Plaintoe Derby

    Sizes available from 23.5cm~28cm (in D,E width). Custom shoe trees also available.

    MTO Test Fitting

    True to his Bespoke roots, Hiro's MTO shoes are meant to provide a 'tailored' fit, unavailable form RTW shoes. The sample shoes provided ample support for the arch, a tight heel, and perhaps most importantly a great support on the instep. While the last itself can not be re-shaped, custom leather insoles could be made on the spot (behind at the workshop), and brought out to adjust the fit. I needed a lil more push up from under the ball of my feet, so an insole with varied thickness (extra layer right at the spot) was made. After a few tries, I must say the fit was spot on, not something I expect from non-Bespoke shoes.

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    Please pardon my clown socks....

    my thanks to Mr.Yanagimachi & Ms.Egawa

    http://www.hiroyanagimachi.com
     
    Last edited: May 21, 2013


  8. clee1982

    clee1982 Senior member

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    That "country" boot is still quite sleek by my book. Nice report, pricing?
     


  9. nutcracker

    nutcracker Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    Thanks CC!

    Hiro Yanagimachi has a 3 tier order system

    Full Scratch Order: ¥350K~¥400K (for initial order). ¥200K~¥250K for second+: Full Bespoke. Last is made from scratch

    Modified Order: ¥250K~¥350K (for initial order). ¥200K~¥250K for second+: MTO with a customizable base last

    Pattern Order: ¥140K~¥200K: Standard MTO. No last modification

    The order fair going right now fits in the 3rd category, with a ¥30K discount
     
    Last edited: May 21, 2013


  10. ThinkDerm

    ThinkDerm Senior member

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    great boot!
     


  11. nutcracker

    nutcracker Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    A few more pics of the Full Brogue Half Boots

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]
     


  12. add911_11

    add911_11 Senior member

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    Wow. Mr.Yanagimach's work is amazing.
     


  13. bboysdontcryy

    bboysdontcryy Senior member

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  14. mimo

    mimo Pernicious Enabler

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    All of them?

    If I'm greedy, one of the crocs. But more reasonably, I love those boots.
     


  15. Fiddler

    Fiddler Senior member

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    There is not one bad shoe in that lot....all of them amazing. But I do love the colour of the suede on those brogues, the ghillies and the derby with baby croc detailing.
     


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