Japanese Shoes: Bespoke & RTW Super Thread

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by nutcracker, Apr 4, 2013.

  1. chogall

    chogall Senior member

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    IMO, Japanese have similar industrial mindset compare to the Germans as seen in most of their industries, all while a lot of them were trained under English/Italian shoemakers.

    So it could very well be that Japanese makers extracted the best from of both worlds/schools of thoughts.
     


  2. nutcracker

    nutcracker Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    Interesting stuff.
    Scientific shoemaking/last making has a big following in Japan. It's mainly being taught as the Kagami Method shoemaking (named after the guy who's been teaching this method of 50 yrs), I don't believe he takes the german method word for word, but has in fact adapted the scientifc method 'or what he call 'numeric conversion of intuition' as a pillar of his teachings. Quite a few notable bespoke makers swear by this methodl. Main'dor (Murakami Eiji) is one of them, I've seen picture of him scribbling papers full of numbers to analyse I suppose lol

    sorry bad picture, but just an idea of the last-making process
    [​IMG]

    The school's website
    http://www2.odn.ne.jp/kagami/
     
    Last edited: Apr 5, 2013


  3. BespokeMakers

    BespokeMakers Senior member

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  4. jerrybrowne

    jerrybrowne Senior member

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    Anyone of these makers visit the US?
     


  5. nutcracker

    nutcracker Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    Welcome to Styleforum! Yes, we need more Japanese on this forum to represent. plz keep posting :fonz: Your blog is fantastic! yes, Qnai-san makes excellent shoes some more Qnais.....(pardon my photo skills) [​IMG] Sealskin whole cuts....crazy skinny [​IMG] just to make sure, he said these are sample shoes and probably not practical to wear :lol:
     
    Last edited: Apr 5, 2013


  6. TehBunny

    TehBunny Senior member

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    Boy am I glad my wife chose to go to Japan for the end of this year! Nutcracker as always great scans; here I was thinking your old scans were awesome enough ;) Hopefully I can pick up something good in Japan; are prices for foreign shoes made from outside of Japan as inflated as most say?
     


  7. nutcracker

    nutcracker Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    yeah, but its strange because it depends on the brand.....GG shoes are grossly inflated, while Carmina shoes go from ¥60,000 without VAT, that is around 10%~15% more than elsewhere in today's exchange.
     


  8. clee1982

    clee1982 Senior member

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    nice, welcome!
     


  9. clee1982

    clee1982 Senior member

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    Interesting, so which part is scientific? I mean I assume once you finish with the scientific part you can still decide on how much longer the last can be, and how rounded or chiseled toe is, etc.
     


  10. clee1982

    clee1982 Senior member

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  11. TehBunny

    TehBunny Senior member

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    What's the difference price wise between Japanese and Foreign made shoes in Japan?
     


  12. poorsod

    poorsod Senior member

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    This is a Mitteleuropa looking toe box.
     


  13. nutcracker

    nutcracker Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    For Japanese brands:
    I say for nice goodyear welted shoes, ¥30,000+
    Most Japanese RTW shoes fall under the ¥55,000 yen. Exclusive models (or shell cordovan model) cost more

    I say you won't find many foreign brands of quality to be priced under ¥50,000

    Carmina, Meermin, Church, Cheaney, AS, C&J, Weston, Alden etc.... all fall in the ¥50,000~¥100,000 bracket

    C&J benchgrade: ¥60,000+
    C&J handgrade: ¥77000
    Alden Calf: ¥76,000
    Alden Shell: ¥100,000
    Carmina: ¥63000
    Meermin: ¥58,000

    Edward Green: ¥130,000+
     


  14. nutcracker

    nutcracker Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    The only Japanese bespoke shoemaker I know who had a show in New York is Koji Suzuki. If I recall correctly from the interview (the one I translated), he said the interest generated at Styleforum played a big part to make the show happen.

    So yeah, I say it's definitely possible to have these makers visit the states, if we generate enough interest to guarantee enough orders if they come.
     


  15. TehBunny

    TehBunny Senior member

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    Thanks for all the info nutcracker; was also wondering what it's like quality wise. Quality to price wise will I be getting more quality going for the 50k Japanese shoes compared to the 50k Meermin (which I assume is on the lower end of the 50-100k spread).
    Pretty sure I'll get a Japanese made shoe preferably midtier something equivalent to a C&J hand or bench grade if I spend too much on food :)

    Again thanks for the info; I understand I'm asking a lot of questions :p
     


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