Japanese Shoes: Bespoke & RTW Super Thread

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by nutcracker, Apr 4, 2013.

  1. ezlau

    ezlau Senior member

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    I was thinking Feb-March period when I'm visiting home (Malaysia). Funny how Malaysia has Isetan too, but the Isetan there sells total rubbish.
     


  2. chogall

    chogall Senior member

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    They always cator to the local market. Isetan outside of Tokyo don't have that great of a selection either, in Fukuoka, or in Hangzhou.

    If Yen goes down further I will seriously budget for Marquese bespoke; it's "on my way home". lol

    Cheapest non American bespoke for me is still G&G. Cost of getting JLParis is almost certainly cheaper than getting Delos or anything in UK/Italy if I take traveling cost into account.
     


  3. nutcracker

    nutcracker Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    :eek:
     


  4. Fang66

    Fang66 Senior member

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    I'm not against whale hunting in principle any more than I'm against hunting any other wild species. If they were threatened or endangered as a species I'd probably feel differently. Minke whales for example are not a threatened species, COSEWIC puts them in the Not At Risk category, and NatureServe lists them as G5 which means the species is secure on global range.
     
    Last edited: May 16, 2013


  5. Fang66

    Fang66 Senior member

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    Pencilled into my calendar.
     


  6. mimo

    mimo Pernicious Enabler

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    I do respect that there is room for debate on this issue, and from the conservation point of view, I know the numbers and status are hotly contested. I'm sure the truth, as usual, is somewhere in the middle!

    But my personal objection goes beyond the endangerment or otherwise of whale species: I disapprove both of the principle of harvesting animals of higher intelligence (which I accept is also an area of great debate!), and of the methods used to kill whales. A seal can be shot in the head, and have its skull crushed in an instant with a specialist tool to make sure. But killing a whale is a lengthy, extremely painful and no doubt terrifying ordeal for the animal in question. Essentially, I think that the killing of any animal should avoid that animal's suffering more than an instant of pain, or awareness of its demise. Were that possible with whale hunting, I might reconsider my position. But a whale is not a fish, and no slaughterhouse in Japan would be permitted to treat cows or sheep the way a whale is currently treated when hunted.

    Nutty's posts above are interesting: as far as I know, seal products cannot be imported into the EU, and nor does any EU country produce them, so tanning them in Italy seems unlikely. If there is some kind of exemption, I'd be interested to know. As for the price, seal skins themselves (perhaps because of the restrictions and adverse press) are rather cheap, so the price will depend on when and how they are tanned. It is a remarkable texture. Any more information would be appreciated.
     


  7. nutcracker

    nutcracker Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    It does seem like the sealskin available today were all harvested pre-ban of seal hunting. I suppose they are not as scarce, as of yet.

    From the Italian brand, F.lli Giacometti / Marmolada, Italy
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    Marmolada Mountain Boots. Black sealskin

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    Marmolada Mountain Boots, Red sealskin

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    F.lli Giacometti Bit Loafer, Red sealskin
     
    Last edited: May 16, 2013


  8. nutcracker

    nutcracker Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    It's gonna be a war zone in a hot hot day.....:devil:
     


  9. mimo

    mimo Pernicious Enabler

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    Nutty, thank you.

    I've looked it all up now re. EU regulations: in typical EU fashion, the exemptions make the overall ban little more than window-dressing.

    Seals aren't at all scarce (at least most species, including the most hunted harp seal). The ban goes back to concerns over the methods of hunting, after campaigns in the eighties that featured fluffy white-furred harp seals being hit on the head with clubs (actually the quickest way to kill one, with a specialist tool and experienced hand). As as result, the EU and some producers like Canada, banned the hunting of the white fluffy baby ones altogether. But they're only white and fluffy for about two weeks!

    The ban is on imports of any seal products, unless (and this is the good bit) they are hunted by indigenous communities as part of subsistence lifestyles (a few thousand), or as part of fisheries management programmes (hundreds of thousands, as that's how and why the hunting is licensed and quota'd in Canada, Norway etc). So most seal skins would be exempted, because they're a bi-product of a fisheries management system. There is still the issue that they're not supposed to be imported as a commercial product, but as some of the main tanneries are in Germany and Denmark, there must be a liberal interpretation of "commercial": perhaps that the production of the skins itself is not commercially profitable (it's subsidised in Canada and Norway). But either way, thousands of skins and pelts are imported into Europe under these rules, perfectly legally as long as records are kept of their origin, either tanned or for tanning. Most are sold at auction (again, tanned and untanned) in Copenhagen (I suppose because of their historical ownership and economic union with Greenland), and re-sold both in the EU and for export to Asia and Russia.

    So there you go. I misread the expression "ban on seal products in the EU" as being a ban on seal products in the EU. Silly me! :)
     


  10. clee1982

    clee1982 Senior member

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    that's about the only good thing come out of it...
     


  11. nutcracker

    nutcracker Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    and your mastery of shoe shining.... :laugh:
     


  12. nutcracker

    nutcracker Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    Shoe Shopping in Nihonbashi

    Nihonbashi has been the commercial center of Tokyo for at least several centuries. This is where the 'old money' lingers. Large financial and retail institutions line the avenue, while upscale eateries are tucked behind. While new, trendy malls have popped up here and there, Mitsukoshi and Takashimaya are still the go-to department stores for old fashioned Japanese.

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    BOJ...thanks for the weak yen...

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    On the top: Mandarin Oriental Tokyo....love that place, got some of the best panoramic views of Tokyo

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    Mitsukoshi Department Store, circa 1914, I call it the Japanese Macy's

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    Got that old world charm of historic English and American Department stores

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    The interior atrium....with an 11m tall Godess sculpture......

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    Shoe Department The space is not that big but the lineup is solid.

    A.Testoni
    Asakusa Seika
    Bally
    Bontoni
    Campanile
    Carmina for Meermin
    Cheaney
    Church's
    Crockett & Jones
    Ducal
    Edward Green
    Isetan Men's
    JM Weston
    John Lobb
    Magnanni
    Otsuka
    Regal
    Salvatore Ferragamo
    Santoni
    Sanyo Yamacho
    Scotch Grain
    Silvano Latanzzi
    Stefano Bemer
    Union Imperial
    Yanko


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    Takashimaya circa 1933

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    "Sigh....one day you'll be mine....."

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    Shoe Lineup
    A. Testoni
    Alfred Sargent
    Berlutti
    Bollini
    Crockett & Jones
    Grenson
    Johnston Murphy
    Magnanni
    Regal
    Otsuka
    Salvatore Ferragamo
    Santoni
    Scotch Grain
    Union Imperial
    Yanko
     
    Last edited: May 16, 2013


  13. clee1982

    clee1982 Senior member

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    oh and ironing my shirts, almost forgot about that one :nodding:
     


  14. Ilovelobbs

    Ilovelobbs Senior member

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    Japan/Tokyo must be the mecca for all the shoe brands in the world.

    I don't think any city around the world has such a concentration of brands
    in one city.

    And I notice the Japanese are the biggest fan of black formal shoes.
     


  15. clee1982

    clee1982 Senior member

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    You mean Saks and Fifth maybe, Macy has step up a lot these days (too many Chinese tourists, so they up the ante a bit, basically lots of higher end women's bag), but its shoe department will still be a far cry from what you listed here...
     


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