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Japanese Shoes: Bespoke & RTW Super Thread

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by nutcracker, Apr 4, 2013.

  1. chogall

    chogall Senior member

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    Included for G&G. Not for JLST.

    Lasted bespoke trees are pretty different beast than regular English RTW trees
     
  2. davesmith

    davesmith Senior member Affiliate Vendor

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    500 pounds for a pair of shoe trees!! There are plenty of people that wouldn't even spend that on a pair of shoes.
     
  3. nutcracker

    nutcracker Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    Hiro's lasted shoe trees for these MTO shoes are identical in quality to his Bespoke shoe trees (¥30K yen), but a bit more inexpensive because they are made in a batch (from the MTO base last)

    I've seen them in person. Not anything fancy or deeply shaped like St.C., but at least they fit the shoes.

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    Hiro's MTO last isn't slim but they seem to fit quite snuggly where it should.

    They can adjust the fit using custom insoles, but I assume you have to be there in person.
    [​IMG]

    pics from Hiro's FB page
     
    Last edited: May 29, 2013
    1 person likes this.
  4. nutcracker

    nutcracker Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    G&G Bespoke includes shoe trees, but I recall they charge 250 GBP to make an additional pair.
     
  5. Journeyman

    Journeyman Senior member

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    Well, quite a few of the places that Nutcracker has kindly documented also sell clothes (Beams, EstNation and a lot of the other stores).

    You're certainly right that Tokyo has an astounding selection of great menswear stores, ranging in price from downright affordable to absolutely sky-high! They also have some extremely good sales from time to time - I still regret not picking up a pile of Holliday & Brown silk print ties when they were on sale for Y5000 at a department store in Ginza a few years back. I've also seen Finamore shirts on sale for Y10000, which is fantastic value (but unfortunately they were all far too small for me).

    I love taking a wander around places like Harajuku/Aoyama and Ginza/Yurakucho when I'm in Tokyo as there are so many lovely stores, both large and small, with a great range of products and a lot of the employees are really well-informed and passionate about the clothing that they sell. I had a great discussion with a salesman at the Brooks Brothers store in Yurakucho, where we exchanged English and Japanese terms for "working buttonholes" and "floating canvas".



    Yes, imported shoes in particular are very expensive in Japan, particularly US and British shoes. Curiously, Italian-made shoes don't seem to be as outrageously priced.
     
    1 person likes this.
  6. nutcracker

    nutcracker Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    True Indeed!

    Isetan/Mitsukoshi, Beams, UA, Barneys etc... have these Members invitation only sales throughout the year. I've been to an Isetan one before. Mostly stuffs from a year ago, but prices go from 50% to 80% off for some really good stuffs (not just odd fits and colors).
     
  7. terrorsquad

    terrorsquad Senior member

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    Nutcracker, what are your thoughts on Masaru Okayama shoes?Does he offer RTW shoes?
     
  8. nutcracker

    nutcracker Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    Okuyama-san does Bespoke only, and from what I've seen (from pictures), his works look quite impressive. He prices his shoes quite high (HKD 38000, or ¥495K yen / $4900 USD), and I can only assume that the extra $$$ reflects on the service and the quality of finish.

    He lives in Hong Kong, and from what I know, he has already amassed a large list of clientele from Hong Kong and the rest of Asia. His shoes aren't available in Japan (no trunk shows yet).

    Check out the interview by our very own VRaivio, published on Keikari.com.
    http://www.keikari.com/english/interview-with-masaru-okuyama/

    I know some of our SF members owns Okuyama's shoes, and have posted before on the Hardcore thread.
     
    Last edited: May 30, 2013
  9. nutcracker

    nutcracker Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    There is a Corno Blu MTO and Bespoke Trunk Show starting today @ BEAMS House Marunouchi.
    Pattern Order (MTO) selection features slip-ons for the summer season. Sizes available with a quarter (1/4) pitch. ¥68K yen~
    Sulla Forma MTO (or Full MTO) allows you to design a pattern from scratch (with an appointment with Mr.Seikaku). For ¥89K yen~
    or you can go full Bespoke for ¥336K

    [​IMG]
    Some new models available for MTO
     
  10. nutcracker

    nutcracker Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    A Visit to Clematis, Tokyo Part 1

    Having seen quite a lot of English and Italian styled shoes recently, I was quite curious to see some home bred Japanese Bespoke at its finest. So I naturally knocked on the doors of Clematis Ginza. I made an appointment for viewing, and was greeted with a warm welcome by shoemaker Keitaro Takano.

    I already knew of his stellar reputation, in terms of quality and craftsmanship, but I was greeted with much more. In short, I found his shoes to be delightfully distinctive, sometimes whimsical, and yet undoubtedly elegant.

    [​IMG]
    Located in a quiet corner of the busy Ginza district

    [​IMG]
    The showroom with an impressive display of shoes. The brand color 'green' quickly grows on you.

    Without further ado, lets get right into some Clematis magic....from the "Red Line" Collection.

    [​IMG]
    Plaintoe oxford in burnished lizard. The 'Red Line' collection is Clematis' test ground for new ideas.

    [​IMG]
    The lizard skin has been sanded / burnished to a nubuck like texture.

    [​IMG]
    A slick blood red sole.

    [​IMG]
    The Clematis heel. The detailing is amazing.

    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    Lizard in a blue-ish tint. The color looks subdued and classy in a way. The toe and the heel are left slick and polished

    [​IMG]
    with a blue sole....

    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    Full Brogues from the 'Red Line'. with an unique red stained edge

    [​IMG]
    More examples of Clematis's full handmade shoes.

    [​IMG]
    A bootie with a calf/suede combo. The lacestay portion is stained darker.

    [​IMG]
    A whole cut elastic slip-on with full imitation brogues.

    [​IMG]
    Takano-san doesn't use marking wheels. Yes, they are all individually marked by hand.
     
    Last edited: May 30, 2013
    1 person likes this.
  11. nutcracker

    nutcracker Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    A Visit to Clematis, Tokyo Part 2

    [​IMG]
    Monk Straps in light tan Elephant.

    [​IMG]
    I really like the house last with the full round toe. Takano calls the shape 'cute', but they're designed for comfort in mind.

    [​IMG]
    Booties in Calf/Elephant combo.

    [​IMG]
    The clean lines of the last looks great on boots.

    [​IMG]
    Dress casuals. Hippo/suede on the left.

    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    A seemless wholecut sample. I asked him where the pinhole was. He looked confused and told me of course there isn't one :embar:

    [​IMG]
    Seemless wholecut in the making.

    [​IMG]
    A collection of mostly unlined summer slip ons.

    [​IMG]
    Slip ons in lizard.

    [​IMG]
    The soles are attached with brass pegs.

    [​IMG]
    Mr. Keitaro Takano. He always has a great smile.

    Clematis shoes are available in several configurations.
    The 'Original Order' allows you to select a design from his vast repertoire, and one of his House lasts. Construction wise, there is the '9.5 Handmade' construction (hand lasted and hand welted, but the soles are partially machine stitched, the waist is hand stitched), which is perhaps the best value. You can also opt to go Full Handmade for a tighter, tailored waist and a higher degree of finish. Personally, I think Takano-san's bottoming stitchwork is something to behold.

    Price starts from ¥163,800 ($1600 USD) for 9.5 Handmade shoes, and ¥248,850 ($2450 USD) for Full Handmade.

    Or you have an option to go full Bespoke, with a new pattern and a new last. Bespokes are also offered with 9.5, or full handmade option. Bespoke price starts from ¥283,500 ($2800) for 9.5 Handmade, and ¥372,750 ($3700) for full blown handmade.

    The selection of leather is great, with a healthy choice in exotics, from hippos to elephants to sharks etc...
    Mr. Takano is open to taking international orders, and in fact has a roster of international clientele. He has a translator for order taking.

    [​IMG]
    I tried on his fitting shoes, and the grip was very strong all around, with an excellent hold on my tiny heels. Best of all, there were generous room in the toe box. I wear a UK 6.5 (24.5cm) for most UK brands, and I had a pretty much perfect fit for Clematis's equivalent size.

    Clematis HP: http://www.clematis-ginza.com


    My thanks to Takano-san@Clematis Ginza
     
    Last edited: May 30, 2013
    3 people like this.
  12. clee1982

    clee1982 Senior member

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    very clean look I like it! all marked individually by hand, that sounds painful... so dedicated
     
    1 person likes this.
  13. SoGent

    SoGent Senior member

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    right here, for now
     
    Last edited: May 30, 2013
    1 person likes this.
  14. Ilovelobbs

    Ilovelobbs Senior member

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    [​IMG]

    I saw this on Justin Shoe Snob blog the other day....I am thinking I have the collection, just missing a bespoke shoedrobe to
    store my collection gracefully....my next project...to clear the garage and convert into a walk-in shoedrobe....

    Enjoy the pic.

    http://www.theshoesnobblog.com/2013/05/shoe-wardrobe-envy.html
     
  15. bengal-stripe

    bengal-stripe Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    As a serious collector you will know, nothing but white tie will do when handling your shoes:

    [​IMG]

    Adolphe Menjou (1890-1963)
     
    Last edited: May 31, 2013
    2 people like this.
  16. nutcracker

    nutcracker Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    Love the wall cabinet. That ladder is just hilarious

    Whenever I go to Ikea's custom wardrobe/closet section... I fantasise doing the same thing
     
    1 person likes this.
  17. chogall

    chogall Senior member

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    I am too poor to afford those spaces at where I live. :(
     
  18. nutcracker

    nutcracker Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    o.e. by Osamu Egawa

    I dropped by the 10th Anniversary Show @ hand sewn welted boot maker o.e.'s studio.
    Below is the 10th Anniversary model, a calf/suede combo shoes with antique buttons.

    Buttoned Shoes with Diamond cap
    Full handmade MTO

    [​IMG]
    Egawa-san often harkens back to the Victorian and Edwardian era for inspiration.
    This ghillie-like design with diamond caps certainly seems to reflect the spirit of that era.

    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]


    [​IMG]
    Antique Victorian Austrian-Tiny buttons with mother of pearl inlay; with hand sewn button holes

    [​IMG]
    The bevelled waist is shaped quite aggressively.

    [​IMG]
    Fit and finish is as near flawless as I've ever seen.

    [​IMG]
    The notch (on the left), to mark the transition to the waist, is among the delightful details of o.e. shoes


    more pictures and report to follow!
     
    2 people like this.
  19. Fiddler

    Fiddler Senior member

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    My mind is now officially and irreparably blown.
     
    2 people like this.
  20. bboysdontcryy

    bboysdontcryy Senior member

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    Those pitched heels and that pair of lazy man shoes are ...
     

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