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Japanese Shoes: Bespoke & RTW Super Thread

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by nutcracker, Apr 4, 2013.

  1. nutcracker

    nutcracker Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    Ouch!!

    Personally, I find Dainite to be equally prone to skidding when the polished floor (marble etc...) gets wet from rain.
     
  2. bboysdontcryy

    bboysdontcryy Senior member

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    Yes, leather soles are slippery indeed. Is it common for people to vibram their soles? I understand some Japanese shoemakers do that as well.
     
  3. add911_11

    add911_11 Senior member

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    In the city? Vibram sole??
     
  4. nutcracker

    nutcracker Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    You mean those glued on half rubber soles? Yes they are quite popular. I've seen people glue those on brand new leather soles.

    A more popular solution (offered by quite a few repair shoes) is a combination of rubber+metal toe taps.

    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
     
    Last edited: May 29, 2013
  5. bboysdontcryy

    bboysdontcryy Senior member

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    Wow. Very different way of wearing shoes indeed. I don't notice people in London having rubber soles glued onto their shoes, but then again, I don't go around observing people's shoe soles. Metal toe-taps are quite popular among forum members on here. I have them on the heels of a few pairs of shoes because I over-pronate and they go very very quickly.
     
    Last edited: May 29, 2013
  6. nutcracker

    nutcracker Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    Then you mean Vibram soles as in their Dainite lookalike 'Eton' soles?

    [​IMG]
    I snapped this pic from RESH shoe repair @ Mitsukoshi Ginza. Quite a selection of colors, available for recraft.
     
  7. bboysdontcryy

    bboysdontcryy Senior member

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    Sorry I wasn't clear -- I meant Dainite soles as in the English-made Dainite soles. You got it correct. That is common in London.

    What isn't common over here (I think) is the vibram rubber soles glued onto the soles (like the picture you put up with the toe-taps). Re-soling is probably more common. How much do shoe makers charge to install toe-taps, and resole shoes?

    Might get double taper to single leather soles (HAF).
     
  8. bengal-stripe

    bengal-stripe Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    Thin (about 3 mm, 1/8") glued-on rubber soles are extremely popular in London (and elsewhere). They are called "Topies".

    Topy is one manufacturer of these type of rubber; either in sheet-form or as pre-cut soles. (There are numerous other manufacturers worldwide.)

    http://www.topy.fr/en/Home

    Maybe Topy is the firm who invented them, maybe not, but their name (at least in Europe and the States) has become the generic name for this type of sole.

    "Vibram" (although the company has dozens of other designs in their catalogue) has become the generic name for lugged rubber soles.
     
  9. nutcracker

    nutcracker Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    Aha, yes, Topy. Thanks B-S!
     
  10. nutcracker

    nutcracker Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    Though I'm not sure about the exact price, shoemakers tend to charge a bit more (vs aftermarket repair shops) for toe taps, but they can do some adjustment to the bottom stitches to avoid them being torn by the screws (please correct me if wrong). Recrafting by a Bespoke maker also costs more too, but they can re-configure the fit using the original last.

    Aftermarket toe taps (at a typical repair shop) cost ¥3000 and up. For resole (machine stitched), price starts around ¥10K, and more for fancier material/finish.

    I know JL Paris voids your warranty if you get it fixed elsewhere, but I've never heard a Japanese brand/shoemaker insist such a thing.

    HAF soles may cost a lil extra for your order, you may want to confirm with Mr.Hiro.
     
    1 person likes this.
  11. bboysdontcryy

    bboysdontcryy Senior member

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    They charge a wicked sum for re-soling.

    On a general note -- Do you guys buy lasted shoe trees (if that option is available) for every pair of shoes?
     
    Last edited: May 29, 2013
  12. add911_11

    add911_11 Senior member

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    I do generally buy lasted shoe trees, or often the shoe will comes with a pair. However, not for cheaper shoes, those that uses generic trees.
     
  13. Ilovelobbs

    Ilovelobbs Senior member

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    I always have a tendency to buy lasted trees - as long it's not too extortionate...

    Vass and Saint Crispins present the best value lasted trees for the money.

    JLP RTW - use standard trees and not worth the money...I know some of their recent trees
    are now lasted...
     
  14. Ilovelobbs

    Ilovelobbs Senior member

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    I have seen £2000 italian shoes come with trees....but using those cheap plastic trees...with the turning screw
    in the middle to tighten.
     
  15. nutcracker

    nutcracker Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    If available, I do get them, if they are not already included

    The new JLP's RTW shoe trees look nice, but unlike StC, G&G etc...., they are not last specific. One model is supposed to fit all the lasts. (I asked the store manager)

    Btw Hiro's lasted shoe trees (I believe they are hornbeam) go for ¥25K, sounds steep but actually in line for a Bespoke maker.
     
  16. bboysdontcryy

    bboysdontcryy Senior member

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    170 GBP is expensive for shoe trees indeed! Two pairs and you can buy a pair of C & J shoes (though not in Japan). But I've no doubt the trees are well-made etc.

    Hiro's last isn't slim right (relative to say, Girling)? It's more of a comfort last.
     
    Last edited: May 29, 2013
  17. poorsod

    poorsod Senior member

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    For reference G&G quoted 800-900 GBP for bespoke 3 piece boot trees. JLSJ has a price list for trees too. 170 GBP seems reasonable.
     
  18. bboysdontcryy

    bboysdontcryy Senior member

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    800-900 GBP? No typo eh? Phew. That price makes 170 GBP sound cheap. :rotflmao:

    That 170 GBP was a Japanese maker's "RTW" lasted shoe trees, so I was comparing it with Girling's 115 GBP (VAT inclusive), Vass's (60-80 euros), Cleverley's (90 + GBP).
     
    Last edited: May 29, 2013
  19. poorsod

    poorsod Senior member

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  20. bboysdontcryy

    bboysdontcryy Senior member

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    Sheesh. I'd never have guessed English bespoke shoemakers like Lobb and Girling charge these incredulous sums for their trees.

    Edit: In retrospect, it makes sense because these bespoke shoe trees are probably like making a new last, and they have to sand it to size.
     
    Last edited: May 29, 2013

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