Japanese Shoes: Bespoke & RTW Super Thread

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by nutcracker, Apr 4, 2013.

  1. Ilovelobbs

    Ilovelobbs Senior member

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    Agree - a bespoke pair of shoes should be about health and comfort as priority. Everything else secondary...... I have a friend who's feet curl upwards at the toe and struggles to keep it flat. Spent thousands on bespoke/orthop shoes and still in pain. When you're spending $5K + on bespoke that's not money well spent, it's money well laundered to me.

    Quote:
     
  2. bengal-stripe

    bengal-stripe Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    It shows various designs for a toe medallion.
     
  3. nutcracker

    nutcracker Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    There are several major shoemaking schools in Japan. Sarukawa School. Esperanza Academy etc... quite a few of the bespoke makers on the list graduated from here
    and I recall their curriculum includes anatomy classes, among others

    From what I read, seems like quite a few Japanese bespoke makers emphasise on othopedics, or have started with orthopaedic shoemaking background.

    on top of my head:
    Koji Atsuta started his career making orthopedic shoes before going to Bemer. He takes a plaster mold of the feet for each order. quite unique among Japanese makers.
    Hiroshi Arai, renowned last maker (who I've ordered a pair last year) also has extensive background in orthopedics and apply to his last design for a number of brands

    I know Misawa Noriyuki (Misawa & Workshop) and Ryuta Hayafuji are both trained in the German school of orthopedics and been vocal about the effects on their design
     
    Last edited: Apr 5, 2013
  4. clee1982

    clee1982 Senior member

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    good to know, the only reason I will ever go bespoke on shoe will be for comfort. I would imagine japan's RTW fits my Asian foot better.
     
  5. chogall

    chogall Senior member

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    Ah okay. So Kuroki Satoshi is more on the RTW side, not JLP bespoke side of the operations.
     
  6. chogall

    chogall Senior member

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    There are two types of bespoke makers.

    Craftsmen who know how to make a pair of shoes but have no clue why they need to do things a certain way besides their skill based training.

    And there are bespoke makers armed with knowledge why certain things are/have to be done in certain ways.

    Former describes the UK shoemaking industries and latter describes the German/Mittleuropa shoemaking training.
     
  7. nutcracker

    nutcracker Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    Ryota Hayafuji

    Scanned this from a magazine. Blind welted, full brogue. Love the toe shape

    [​IMG]
     
  8. luk-cha

    luk-cha Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    this is an awesome post thanks!!!
     
  9. luk-cha

    luk-cha Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    lovely shape but it looks very narrow
     
  10. luk-cha

    luk-cha Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    awesome last great balance
     
  11. nutcracker

    nutcracker Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    nice to see you back luk :slayer:
     
  12. nutcracker

    nutcracker Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    OK boys, here's something VERY VERY nice
    I scanned and photoshopped these pics from MEN'S EX Bespoke edition

    these photos are as good as it gets


    [​IMG]
    Clematis Ginza (Takano Keitaro): side elastic whole cut w/ imitation full brogue

    [​IMG]
    Yukiko Bassett Okawa (Benchmade): Wholecut w/rope seems

    [​IMG]
    Hiro Yanagimachi: U-tip Derby

    [​IMG]
    Lecott (Tsukui Reiko): Straight Tip

    [​IMG]
    o.e. (Osamu Egawa): full brogue

    [​IMG]
    Ryota Hayafuji: full brogue w/blind welt

    [​IMG]
    Spigola (Koji Suzuki): Saddle Wing w/Russian Calf

    [​IMG]
    Yohei Fukuda: Long vamp oxfords w/imitation brogue

    [​IMG]
    Guild of Crafts (Yamaguchi Chihiro): One piece Singe Monks
     
    Last edited: Apr 5, 2013
  13. chogall

    chogall Senior member

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    So many awesome shoes.

    Spigola, Fukuda, and GoC are a notch above IMO.

    Hayafuji did a very nice job with the blind welt on a full brogue... :O
     
  14. gusvs

    gusvs Senior member

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    Great thread, thanks a lot NC!!! The Marquess round toe is amazing!
     
  15. bengal-stripe

    bengal-stripe Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    I presume you are referring to the Knöfel Equator which runs right through Europe.

    Robert Knöfel (1834-1884) was a shoemaker and teacher from Saxony who later settled in Vienna. He developed a ‘scientific’ method of last-making and shoe design, based on measurements (of the foot, not the last) and strictly defined angles; known in German as the ‘Winkelsystem’.
    This is the tool needed, a ‘Modellwinkel’

    [​IMG]

    As you can see it’s pretty prescriptive, everything is strictly defined: resulting in designs with a low vamp point and a low-slung top-line. I suppose, if one has the cojones, you can override it, but it appears to me everybody (who subscribes to Knöfel) treats it like Holy Scripture. (Apparently it is the same with German tailors, they subscribe to one or the other 'Cutting-System', while elsewhere tailors cut according to gut feeling and experience.)

    English, French and Italians treat last and shoe design far more empirical and free. They also base their patternmaking on the last. The result counts, not the underlying theory.

    I haven’t had great success with the two lasts I have lying around somewhere in Vienna and which I do not want to re-visit. What good is a ‘scientific’ method if it doesn't fit to my liking, even if Mr Knöfel says that’s the way it ought to be?

    The proof of the pudding is in the eating!
     

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