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Japanese Shoes: Bespoke & RTW Super Thread

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by nutcracker, Apr 4, 2013.

  1. nutcracker

    nutcracker Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    Bamboo, you are correct.

    The company is called Kamioka in Japanese, named after Shen-gang in Taichung city, aka the Northampton of Taiwan. It is a Taiwanese company based in Taichung, and Kamioka is their Japanese subsidiary. The bulk of their business seems to come from their OEM contracts. They have a factory in Laos, where these shoes are made. Their head shoemaker, a fellow Taiwanese, was instructed by Eric Cook (yes, that Eric Cook). While I am not certain, I think they may be the one making shoes for our fellow SF member.

    They sell the shoes under the house brand named Ingenuity, or `Shinsho`. I understand they are sold in Japan only, for now. Their standard line of shoes aren`t as nice as those samples I posted above though :lol:

    Here are the shoes sold under the Shinsho name (in Japan)
    http://www.ingenuity.co.jp/product

    Here are the OEM shoes they produce (under various brand names)
    http://www.ingenuity.co.jp/factory
     
    Last edited: May 3, 2013


  2. nutcracker

    nutcracker Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    Ok, Miyagi Kogyo has a very confusing company structure. Their core business is OEM (B2B). With a large selection of pre-made designs, lasts, sizes, and materials, solid goodyear welted construction, and a low starting price (¥30,000 plus), they are favored by quite a few brands and small fashion businesses looking for their private shoe collection. They also take MTO orders from individual consumers (B2C) under the alias Wasoryoka. The Alden lookalikes I posted earlier belongs to this collection.
    To avoid confusion, I call them Miyagi Kogyo MTOs.

    Then there is the MIYAGI KOGYO RTW shoes. These shoes are exclusively made for and sold at select retailers such as the World Footwear Gallery (www.wfg-net.com) in Tokyo, and Isetan Mitsukoshi in Osaka. The designs and the lasts are also exclusive, and not available in their MTO line. Material, fit, and finish are done in much higher standard (vs their MTO), hence the higher price (¥50,000 and above). While styled quite classically in the English school, their lasts (originally designed by the famed modelista Hiroshi Arai) are oblique and banana shaped, heavily influenced by American lasts (namely Alden). I say they may have wanted to combine the best of English and American qualities into one. Personally, I love the fit and shape of the last, and for those who`s size is under 9 (their largest size), definitely worth a try. Just to be sure though, not all of their lasts have the `inside straight, outside curve` shape.
    I call them Miyagi Kogyo RTW shoes.

    The RTW shoes are available in their entirety @ World Footwear Gallery, in Harajuku, or Ginza, in Tokyo. They are also available in Osaka from Mitsukoshi Isetan department store.
     
    Last edited: May 2, 2013


  3. nutcracker

    nutcracker Senior member Dubiously Honored

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  4. nutcracker

    nutcracker Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    Bespoke Kilt Tassels by Il Quadrifoglio

    I snapped these from last week`s show, they`re someone else`s

    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
     
    Last edited: May 2, 2013


  5. BespokeMakers

    BespokeMakers Senior member

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    Amazing!
    I recall a decorative apron worn by a sumo wrestler [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
     


  6. Ilovelobbs

    Ilovelobbs Senior member

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    The shoe on the left reminds me of the Vass K last and the right reminds me of the Vass F last...

    This shoe industry very incestuous
     


  7. nutcracker

    nutcracker Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    :lol: Not a coincidence.... Roberto Ugolini helped design the F last, and he also happens to be Fukaya`s ex-mentor.
     
    Last edited: May 3, 2013


  8. clee1982

    clee1982 Senior member

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    Good to know stuff, I wonder what's the best they can do.
     


  9. nutcracker

    nutcracker Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    CC,

    The company`s name is Turnright, based in Taichung. The sample shoes you saw above (and below) were made in Taiwan at their own atelier, at a considerably high standard (handsewn welted) for display at trade shows. Shoes made in Laos are priced at ¥30,000 ($300) range, and are goodyear welted. They employ several Japanese veteran shoemakers to supervise the Laos factories.

    Some of their better efforts...Sample Shoes; handsewn welted

    [​IMG]
    Shaped like JLP`s Jermyn II

    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    Berlutti-esque

    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    Buckle and Elastic

    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    Grey base plus black patina

    [​IMG]
    Handpainting

    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]

    Ingenuity Shoes are sold in Japan, but will be available in China and Singapore too (may have already started)

    taken from Mr.Yamashita`s site
     


  10. mimo

    mimo Pernicious Enabler

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    Impressive! Are any of their higher quality products sold, or just made for demonstration purposes? They have my attention...
     


  11. Ilovelobbs

    Ilovelobbs Senior member

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    I am fascinated with the Japanese desire for perfection - I have seen guys spending hours insepcting every aspect
    of the shoes for flaws, blemishes and defects before parting their credit cards...They have some serious OCD for quality...

    I have seen Japanese specialist friut boutique selling perfect fruits like apples; oranges; pears for over
    $5 each....and winter melons for $50.....
     


  12. Fang66

    Fang66 Senior member

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    :angry: :cloud: Only go up to size 9.
     


  13. nutcracker

    nutcracker Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    Not sure, but they seem to be for Demonstration purpose only.... I might as well visit their Tokyo showroom and ask....



    Doh! Hopefully they will have larger sizes once they expand to more countries....
     


  14. SoGent

    SoGent Senior member

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    kinda like this one . . . . where to kop please .
     


  15. nutcracker

    nutcracker Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    As far as I know, those are one off sample shoes made for trade shows. Their actual line of RTW shoes are available in Japan (and possibly China and Singapore), but not nearly as nice.
    http://www.ingenuity.co.jp/product

    They have a small showroom in downtown Tokyo.
     


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