Japanese Shoes: Bespoke & RTW Super Thread

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by nutcracker, Apr 4, 2013.

  1. nutcracker

    nutcracker Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    I assume you don`t want those generic ones sold online and in department stores, but some NICE ones.

    I know for sure that Fugee and Ortus can make them for you. They work with both hippo and elephant leathers and they also offer custom belts. However they don`t come cheap....
     


  2. Ilovelobbs

    Ilovelobbs Senior member

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  3. nutcracker

    nutcracker Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    Hiro Yanagimachi MTO Order Fair 5/18~6/2

    Held every Spring and Fall (so twice a year) at the workshop, the Pattern Order Fair offers a generous ¥30,000 discount ($300 USD) off the regular price of ¥140K~¥170K for Hiro Yanagimachi MTO shoes. Styles are limited to 5 staple models, and leather choices are also limited to 5 (with 1 suede). A great opportunity if you`re looking for some staple shoes of lasting quality.

    Hiro Yanagimachi MTO shoes are hand lasted and handsewn welted. Lead time is 3 months (instead of regular 6 months)

    [​IMG]
    Punched captoes in a classic shape. Top grade Weinheimer box calf. ¥131,250 ($1340 USD)

    [​IMG]
    This pair is tempting me. Could this be my Dover killer? ¥141,750 ($1446 USD)

    [​IMG]
    5 staple models plus 5 leather choices

    www.hiroyanagimachi.com
     
    Last edited: Apr 29, 2013


  4. ThinkDerm

    ThinkDerm Senior member

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    quanto? can you get some details on these?

    and PS - those shoes are not Dover killers.
     


  5. chogall

    chogall Senior member

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    That's a decent price. SC PRET is cheaper although SC doesn't have an actual maker doing the last customization.

    Dover has better aesthetics but this pair has much better construction.
     
    Last edited: Apr 30, 2013


  6. nutcracker

    nutcracker Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    Sorry, Fugee does watch belts that start from ¥47,000. Though I`m sure they can do belts too.
    Ortus should cost similar to Fugee (i.e. expensive)

    I listed these two because I know they work with hippo and elephant. I can ask them for you, once I return to Japan this weekend.


    No? Here is a close up of the shoe. Looks good?

    [​IMG]


    I`m thinking these would be more comfortable, being handsewn welted, and hopefully made with better attention to detail. They are priced roughly same with a Dover w/Top Drawer finish.
    To be honest, I`m a sucker for anything on sale (these are roughly 20% off regular MTO price) so I might drop by the show to check them out.
     
    Last edited: Apr 30, 2013


  7. chogall

    chogall Senior member

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    SC is hand sewn welted as well. They won't need to peg the waist if its squared not beveled.

    BTW, who are the shoe tree makers that knows how to make hollowed travel trees? It seems the guy making them in UK retired and G&G wasn't able to find an replacement...

    Not sure about the French tree maker for JL/Delos; hopefully he's still around.

    SC is the only company I know that has hollowed travel trees nowadays...
     


  8. nutcracker

    nutcracker Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    [​IMG]
    SPIGOLA`s hinged shoe trees in production at MOU, a cabinet maker in Kobe

    The bottom of the trees are hollowed, but I do not recall them going through the other side like SC trees. Maybe some other member has a picture of the underside.
    Il Quadrifoglio`s new hinged shoes look quite similar, he said they are made by a local last maker.

    SC trees really are something.
     
    Last edited: Apr 30, 2013


  9. Ilovelobbs

    Ilovelobbs Senior member

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    SC Hollow trees are definitely worth the money, the thinniest part is no more than 3mm thick ....someone needs to catch a flight to Brasov (Romania) and track down this dude who's making them for SC......
     


  10. Ilovelobbs

    Ilovelobbs Senior member

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    Quote:If these are the same price as the Dover, than it's worth the money...... The guys that does the stitching of the Dover apron-like upper can command a hefty premium.......
     


  11. nutcracker

    nutcracker Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    [​IMG]

    Up close shot of Hiro`s apron stitches. Very clean.
     


  12. Ilovelobbs

    Ilovelobbs Senior member

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    Quote:Agree - and the toe shape my kind of last too....will post a pic of my 82 Last Dover this evening.
     


  13. nutcracker

    nutcracker Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    Do you know much those SC trees are, if purchase seperatly?

    Spigola MTO`s hinged shoe trees, which are admittedly not as nice as SC`s, still commands a hefty price. I think they`re over ¥30,000, or $300 USD. Perhaps even more. I also heard that they don`t make money out of it at all. That is pretty much how much they pay the craftsmen for them.
     


  14. Ilovelobbs

    Ilovelobbs Senior member

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    I was quoted back in 2012 by Ascot Shoes:

    1) €70 for the normal trees....

    2) €100 for the hollow ones....

    Extremely good value......

    If Spigola trees are costing $300 USD and he claiming there hardly any profit, I won't be surprised given the raw cost of material & labour is relatively higher than Romania.

    Vass has the same supply issues with their tree supplier in Hungary.
    This is a major problem if you have "key man" dependencies on certain
    aspect of the shoe making process....guess this risk applies to all industry.
     
    Last edited: Apr 30, 2013


  15. BespokeMakers

    BespokeMakers Senior member

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    Sorry....I have only these pictures.

    [​IMG]


    [​IMG]


    [​IMG]
    Perhaps...not digged
     


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