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Japanese Shoes: Bespoke & RTW Super Thread

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by nutcracker, Apr 4, 2013.

  1. nutcracker

    nutcracker Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    Ugolini/Vass project with Isetan was quite a few years ago Perceptions for domestic brands have changed quite a bit since. Isetan is all pushing Made in Japan now (possibly since the earthquake).

    In the past few years, Isetan teamed with: Otsuka, Tsukui Reiko (Lecott), Yoshiharu Hasegawa, Union Imperial for exclusive offerings. The Isetan exclusive full hand made Otsuka Limited shoes are priced at 200K JPY, directly aimed at top priced imported shoes.

    But of course, Isetan still does collab with foreign brands too. Not long ago, they had a special MTO (design your own) fair with Crockett & Jones, not something any store can pull off.
     
    Last edited: Apr 9, 2013


  2. nutcracker

    nutcracker Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    well actually, 5 yrs ago or so, Isetan teamed with a Japanese maker to release exclusive Made in Japan rtw shoes called Mark Bladog? priced around 100K~150K JPY or so. I think they did miserably, and was took off the shelf in a relatively short time :uhoh:
     


  3. nutcracker

    nutcracker Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    Otsuka's signature Button Up Boots. In production since 1907

    Full handmade RTW, Calf/ Goat Suede, priced ¥225,000

    [​IMG]
     


  4. clee1982

    clee1982 Senior member

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    That's an interesting concept actually, though the price is a bit...
     


  5. nutcracker

    nutcracker Senior member Dubiously Honored

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  6. meister

    meister Senior member

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    Tarsal straps. :tounge: What a beautiful shoe!
     


  7. chogall

    chogall Senior member

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    Didn't know REGAL has a bespoke operation.

    I know that Ms Matsuda has a huge influence inside Foster & Sons nowadays.

    But what does Kuroki Satoshi do @ JL Paris?
     


  8. nutcracker

    nutcracker Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    I think he is currently the footwear pattern engineer, meaning he creates the patterns for RTW that will be mass produced. I'm not certain of this info, maybe someone can chime in. He's been working at JL for quite.
    He also continues to work as an outworker in Northampton.
    He visits Japan occasionally and gives lectures
     


  9. nutcracker

    nutcracker Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    SAION's Yokoyama used to be in charge of REGAL's bespoke operation before he went solo as SAION


    Some REGAL Bespoke I found on their site

    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    Norwegian welt
    [​IMG]
    Horween shell cordovan / Norwegian welt
     


  10. Verniza

    Verniza Senior member

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    This thread is making me rethink my holiday plans.

    Japan seems to have such a vibrant artisanal community and I would really love to visit them. Are prices more affordable than the European makers though? Considering the large amount of competition of artisans in Japan.
     


  11. add911_11

    add911_11 Senior member

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    No, expect them just as expensive than UK's top bespoke operation. However, their RTW is pretty good value it seems.

    Europe (especially Poland, Hungary) have very talented shoemaker in very good price, but the question is do you like their style?
     


  12. Verniza

    Verniza Senior member

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    Oh damn I was hoping to it won't be as high as UK. 5 thou is too much for me to drop at this point.

    I find European makers(Eastern Europe) a huge hit or miss for me. Some have puke worthy patina while some have too aggressive lasts and some have too clunky lasts.

    I just like deep rich mirror shines and a well balanced last between sleek/classic.
     
    Last edited: Apr 5, 2013


  13. nutcracker

    nutcracker Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    You are quite right. Competition is quite fierce in Japan. Price varies by a lot. Unless you are already an established maker, most bespoke makers have to compete with high end- imported RTW shoes too, like JL or GG etc...

    Theres lots of factors that determine bespoke pricing, including fame, but I say the average price for a full bespoke shoes in Japan is ¥200,000 or so.

    Established makers with enough reputation and clienteles charge as much as ¥350,000~¥390,000, equivalent to big name English makers.

    some crazy makers go from ¥500,000 or more (Guild of Crafts)


    The Misawa & Workshop's bespoke spectators (in brown and beige) in you see above in this page is ¥200,000.
     
    Last edited: Apr 5, 2013


  14. Louis XIV

    Louis XIV Senior member

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    I am interested how well educated Japanese shoemakers are in orthopedics.
    I understand a lot of Japenese shoemakers have taken shoe making apprenticeships in Europe and begun their local shops afterwards.
    There does not seem to exist a Japenese master craftsmanship degree which certifies not only your technical skill but your theoretical knowledge about the human body.
    So while I enjoy the looks of the shoes a lot, they easily can compete with the best European makers designwise in my opinion, I am uncertain how much they care about the right stand and gait of the wearer.
    To me a bespoke pair of shoes should mainly be about health and only about design in the second place.
     


  15. coloRLOw

    coloRLOw Senior member

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    the diagram behind the shoes is interesting
    who has a similar but clearer one?
     


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