Japanese Shoes: Bespoke & RTW Super Thread

[j ingevaldsson]

Those in Tokyo, come to the World Championships in Shoemaking event at Isetan Men's this Saturday October 6 between 3-7PM. I will be there together with the world champion Patrick Frei, top three shoes in the contest will be exhibited, as well as the four best Japanese makers' entries. More info here on Isetan's website.

Picture from Unipair in Seoul when the podium shoes were exhibited there, on their ongoing world tour.

 

[daizawaguy]

Isetan now has 4 Japanese shoe makers shoes...Otsuka, Hayano, Fukuda and Clematis

 

[Taverner.cohen]

I didnt know any of those but they look great!

 

[Bic Pentameter]

I may have found a new Japanese bespoke shoemaker.

Today, I took a pair of jeans to Sarto in Ginza to be shortened, and to have the hem of a jacket mended. While I was waiting for them to write me up, I spoke with Yutaka Moriguchi.

Apparently, Mr. Moriguchi apprenticed with Hiro Yanagimachi. He does pattern order, made to measure, and full bespoke. He also makes belts and other leather goods.

He will also resole bespoke shoes with a hand sewn welt. I don't know how that would work out without the original last.

Bic

 

[Encore]

I may have found a new Japanese bespoke shoemaker.

Today, I took a pair of jeans to Sarto in Ginza to be shortened, and to have the hem of a jacket mended. While I was waiting for them to write me up, I spoke with Yutaka Moriguchi.

Apparently, Mr. Moriguchi apprenticed with Hiro Yanagimachi. He does pattern order, made to measure, and full bespoke. He also makes belts and other leather goods.

He will also resole bespoke shoes with a hand sewn welt. I don't know how that would work out without the original last.

Bic

I was just thinking he might have opened his own business after leaving hiro, when I saw the news on instagram, would you happen to know his pricing?

EDITED: was using my phone and didn't realize you provided a link. thank you!

 

[junglcmndo]

I was just thinking he might have opened his own business after leaving hiro, when I saw the news on instagram, would you happen to know his pricing?

Looks like he has a website with different pricing. Most of it in Japanese though

 

[Encore]

Looks like he has a website with different pricing. Most of it in Japanese though

Didn't realize there was a link - thanks!

 

[vriche]

My Dark Brown punched Captoe from Joe Works arrived last week. They’re even nicer in person compared to the pictures on their Instagram. I was concerned since I have somewhat of a high instep but they fit well and the “V” is not really wide at all.

I’ll post some fit pics some other time.

 

[patliean1]

Where did you order your MTO from?

 

[vriche]

Where did you order your MTO from?

From www.thesabot.com. Fantastic service and quick.

 

[Falu_al]

I just went to JoeWorks as well the other day. A very genuine experience in a quiet area of Tokyo. Good Service.

I was asked weather I wanted Dainite or Vibram sole. They recommended Vibram, stating that the rubber quality was better. I was under the impression that Dainite was the gold standard for a rubber city sole. Any ideas? It is clear that Vibram has ripped the design from Dainite. Question remains, is the remake better than the original?

Joeworks Last 0. 3 eyelet chukka boots. Vibram sole.

I placed an order in Tokyo when I visited their workshop in mid Jan. The shoes was completed almost exactly after 2 months. It is very quick for some of us who are used to some of European maker's MTO.

The first picture was taken immediately after out of the box. 2nd and 3rd pic were after 1 day wear and polishing. I applied neutral cream first and buffed, then used blue shoe cream and applied black wax. Leather quality looks quite good. It creases naturally and quality is constant through out the pair. Level of craftsmanship is high and they are very cleanly made.

Sizing: I take the same size as Gaziano and Girling and fitting is quite good for me. Toe box area is less roomy than GG.
This is not an oxford shoes so unfortunately I cannot compare apple to apple. My foot is not so wide and this last is quite sleek. If you have wide foot, you would need an adjustment, which they can do at no additional cost. (need confirmation as per adjustment cost)

Minor thing:
There were metal eyelet on the back of the facing, I may go without those if possible from next time. Sometimes the metal is visible from certain angle and I am not a fan of it.

 

[bamboo]

I just went to JoeWorks as well the other day. A very genuine experience in a quiet area of Tokyo. Good Service.

I was asked weather I wanted Dainite or Vibram sole. They recommended Vibram, stating that the rubber quality was better. I was under the impression that Dainite was the gold standard for a rubber city sole. Any ideas? It is clear that Vibram has ripped the design from Dainite. Question remains, is the remake better than the original?

Hi. What I had from Joe Works is Ridgeway pattern by Vibram.

Having said that I have Dainite from other maker and Dainite pattern from Vibram in the past. Here is my experience and information from cobbler and shoe makers.

1) Vibarm stud is lower (slightly lower profile.
2) Vibram rubber is softer
3) Vibram is less slippery (especially when new).

I think 3) is may be related to shorter studs.
One cobbler told me he prefers Dainite rubber because it is harder and more enduring. but I could not see the difference from my daily use.
Dainite is super slippery on wet and flat surface when new. Vibram is less slippery when new from my experience.

 

[Falu_al]

thanks - very helpful! I'm normally quite conservative when it comes to try new soles, as new makers normally cut corners to lower the cost. I'll stick with Vibram this time around - see how it plays out

Hi. What I had from Joe Works is Ridgeway pattern by Vibram.

Having said that I have Dainite from other maker and Dainite pattern from Vibram in the past. Here is my experience and information from cobbler and shoe makers.

1) Vibarm stud is lower (slightly lower profile.
2) Vibram rubber is softer
3) Vibram is less slippery (especially when new).

I think 3) is may be related to shorter studs.
One cobbler told me he prefers Dainite rubber because it is harder and more enduring. but I could not see the difference from my daily use.
Dainite is super slippery on wet and flat surface when new. Vibram is less slippery when new from my experience.

 

[ericgereghty]

@vriche was this a GMTO or just a one off? Also, any surcharge on going MTO? would be curious if Sabot had more offerings one could utilize going that route.

 

[vriche]

@vriche was this a GMTO or just a one off? Also, any surcharge on going MTO? would be curious if Sabot had more offerings one could utilize going that route.

It was a one off. I’ll send you a DM.