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Japanese Shoes: Bespoke & RTW Super Thread

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by nutcracker, Apr 4, 2013.

  1. j ingevaldsson

    j ingevaldsson Distinguished Member Affiliate Vendor

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    Those in Tokyo, come to the World Championships in Shoemaking event at Isetan Men's this Saturday October 6 between 3-7PM. I will be there together with the world champion Patrick Frei, top three shoes in the contest will be exhibited, as well as the four best Japanese makers' entries. More info here on Isetan's website.
    _MG_7419-s.jpg
    Picture from Unipair in Seoul when the podium shoes were exhibited there, on their ongoing world tour.
     
    Last edited: Oct 2, 2018

  2. daizawaguy

    daizawaguy Senior Member

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    Isetan now has 4 Japanese shoe makers shoes...Otsuka, Hayano, Fukuda and Clematis

    27FE79C9-2DF8-43DD-A94A-EA4AB77F9F14.jpeg
     

  3. Taverner.cohen

    Taverner.cohen Senior Member

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    I didnt know any of those but they look great!
     

  4. Bic Pentameter

    Bic Pentameter Senior Member

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    I may have found a new Japanese bespoke shoemaker.

    Today, I took a pair of jeans to Sarto in Ginza to be shortened, and to have the hem of a jacket mended. While I was waiting for them to write me up, I spoke with Yutaka Moriguchi.

    Apparently, Mr. Moriguchi apprenticed with Hiro Yanagimachi. He does pattern order, made to measure, and full bespoke. He also makes belts and other leather goods.

    He will also resole bespoke shoes with a hand sewn welt. I don't know how that would work out without the original last.

    Bic
     
    Last edited: Oct 8, 2018

  5. Encore

    Encore Senior Member

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    I was just thinking he might have opened his own business after leaving hiro, when I saw the news on instagram, would you happen to know his pricing?

    EDITED: was using my phone and didn't realize you provided a link. thank you!
     
    Last edited: Oct 8, 2018

  6. junglcmndo

    junglcmndo Well-Known Member

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    Looks like he has a website with different pricing. Most of it in Japanese though
     

  7. Encore

    Encore Senior Member

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    Didn't realize there was a link - thanks!
     

  8. vriche

    vriche Senior Member

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    My Dark Brown punched Captoe from Joe Works arrived last week. They’re even nicer in person compared to the pictures on their Instagram. I was concerned since I have somewhat of a high instep but they fit well and the “V” is not really wide at all.

    I’ll post some fit pics some other time.

    B17D8424-2F66-426C-B699-9C1F53226D70.jpeg

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  9. patliean1

    patliean1 Distinguished Member

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    Where did you order your MTO from?
     

  10. vriche

    vriche Senior Member

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    From www.thesabot.com. Fantastic service and quick.
     

  11. Falu_al

    Falu_al Senior Member

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    I just went to JoeWorks as well the other day. A very genuine experience in a quiet area of Tokyo. Good Service.

    I was asked weather I wanted Dainite or Vibram sole. They recommended Vibram, stating that the rubber quality was better. I was under the impression that Dainite was the gold standard for a rubber city sole. Any ideas? It is clear that Vibram has ripped the design from Dainite. Question remains, is the remake better than the original?

    [​IMG]



     

  12. bamboo

    bamboo Senior Member

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    Hi. What I had from Joe Works is Ridgeway pattern by Vibram.

    Having said that I have Dainite from other maker and Dainite pattern from Vibram in the past. Here is my experience and information from cobbler and shoe makers.

    1) Vibarm stud is lower (slightly lower profile.
    2) Vibram rubber is softer
    3) Vibram is less slippery (especially when new).

    I think 3) is may be related to shorter studs.
    One cobbler told me he prefers Dainite rubber because it is harder and more enduring. but I could not see the difference from my daily use.
    Dainite is super slippery on wet and flat surface when new. Vibram is less slippery when new from my experience.
     

  13. Falu_al

    Falu_al Senior Member

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    thanks - very helpful! I'm normally quite conservative when it comes to try new soles, as new makers normally cut corners to lower the cost. I'll stick with Vibram this time around - see how it plays out :)


     

  14. ericgereghty

    ericgereghty Distinguished Member

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    @vriche was this a GMTO or just a one off? Also, any surcharge on going MTO? would be curious if Sabot had more offerings one could utilize going that route.
     

  15. vriche

    vriche Senior Member

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    It was a one off. I’ll send you a DM.
     

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