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Japanese Shoes: Bespoke & RTW Super Thread

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by nutcracker, Apr 4, 2013.

  1. nutcracker

    nutcracker Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    thnx Fang!
     
  2. Son Of Saphir

    Son Of Saphir Senior member

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    this thread is very good,
    it best thread here
    me like it very very much. :nodding:
     
    1 person likes this.
  3. Asian Afro

    Asian Afro Senior member

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    Can you or someone here proxy? The page here doesn't seem to allow online orders.

    Trading Post also has fancy shoe boxes should anyone care.
     
  4. nutcracker

    nutcracker Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    The case is not small, and probably also needs to be repackaged in a sturdier box to ship overseas.
    Unfortunately I can't do that for you, but I can ask Trading Post if they can pack/ship overseas.
     
    Last edited: May 8, 2013
  5. nutcracker

    nutcracker Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    An interesting repair job by the folks @ Brift H Tokyo

    Apparently, the cracks on the vamp were beyond repair, so a piece of leather was stitched over the cracked area. He calls this type of repair 'Charles Style'
    They also did a decent job matching/finishing the leather piece to blend in with the rest....maybe a contrast with a totally different color would have been cool too.....

    [​IMG]
     
    1 person likes this.
  6. nutcracker

    nutcracker Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    gentille & 79, Tokyo

    Shoe repair and order salon gentille opened just last year, tucked in the small neighborhood of Fudomae. Already known as one of the few repair shops in Tokyo that can do full blown hand stitched recrafting, owner Koji Endou is also an accomplished shoemaker. With over 10 years of experience in shoemaking and repairing, he also apprenticed briefly under Anthony Delos at the Loire atelier.

    Endou's bespoke line, '79 soixante-dix-neuf', is available for order at the atelier. Price starts at a generous ¥190,000 yen for full handmade bespoke shoes.

    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    A chic storefront in a cozy neighborhood

    [​IMG]
    Bespoke line '79 soixante-dix-neuf' on display

    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    The smooth silhouette is very pleasing to the eyes. A shape inspired by Delos.

    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    Oxfords with Norwegian welts.

    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    More norwegian welts.

    [​IMG]
    Whole Cut Oxford
    [​IMG]
    Wholecut Oxford with a characteristically short nose

    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    Whole Cut Derby in English Suede

    [​IMG]
    Koji Endou bottier

    A newcomer to the busy Tokyo Bespoke scene, Endou bottier is definitely worth keeping an eye on. Would like to thank Endou-san for his time!

    gentille & 79
    www.gentille-79.com
     
    Last edited: May 9, 2013
    5 people like this.
  7. Fang66

    Fang66 Senior member

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    Keep em coming nc, great work.
     
  8. nutcracker

    nutcracker Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    :fonz:
     
  9. BespokeMakers

    BespokeMakers Senior member

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    Koji Suzuki's latest work.
    Spigola lazyman shoes.
    Good craftsman always busy.

    [​IMG]
     
    Last edited: May 10, 2013
    2 people like this.
  10. nutcracker

    nutcracker Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    Now that's interesting....looks like real lacestays and tongues, but are those laces real (functional)? or fake :lol:
     
    Last edited: May 10, 2013
  11. bengal-stripe

    bengal-stripe Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    Just compare the two shoes:

    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]

    The suede shoe is so incredibly deep in the heel area, that I suspect it is one of those “Elevator Shoes”, where a big built-in insole wedge will add an additional inch or more to the owner’s height.
     
    1 person likes this.
  12. nutcracker

    nutcracker Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    I'm not 100% sure that it was inteded to be an 'elavator' type, but yes, the heel is quite deep on that one, would be quite an clever and good looking solution to inconspicuously raise height.

    Here is another one of Endou's sample shoes (not my picture)

    A seemless wholecut with a pinched nose (reminds me of a similar Corthay with a center crease)

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
     
    Last edited: May 10, 2013
  13. add911_11

    add911_11 Senior member

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    Now that's a pair of shoes.
    Hey NT, Can you let me know his optional charges on his bespoke line? My poor Japanese fails to understand the slangs :p
     
  14. rikod

    rikod Senior member

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    I like the norwegian welt stopping in the middle like that
     
  15. nutcracker

    nutcracker Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    Haha sure, I think this is how it goes

    ・Double Welt+¥5,000
    ・Bevelled Waist+¥10,000
    ・Norwegian Welted Single+¥20,000
    ・Norwegian Welted Double+¥30,000
    ・Norwegian Welted & Bevelled Waist+¥30,000
    ・Norwegian +¥20,000
    ・Fiddle Back+¥5,000
    ・Half Mid Sole+¥4,000
    ・Full Mid Sole+¥6,000
     
  16. clee1982

    clee1982 Senior member

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    unrelated question, any idea why doesn't Artioli doesn't use those elastic thing on the side like this guy
     
  17. Saratorial_Splender

    Saratorial_Splender Senior member

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    Those last ones have some similarities to Bestteti shoes with teh eagle claw toes.
     
  18. Saratorial_Splender

    Saratorial_Splender Senior member

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    WOW, I am sure they never made thes in UK12.5 as MTO, perhaps I should try them. Very nice.
     
  19. Saratorial_Splender

    Saratorial_Splender Senior member

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    Same sole, top with full, bottom is half sole.
     
  20. nutcracker

    nutcracker Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    Those are called eagle claw toes?



    That particular sample shoe is size 27.5 (UK 9), and that's already considered extra large here in Japan :lol:
     

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