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Japanese Shoes: Bespoke & RTW Super Thread

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by nutcracker, Apr 4, 2013.

  1. DWFII

    DWFII Bespoke Boot and Shoemaker Dubiously Honored

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    Duncan,

    I apologize--I wanted to "mention" you and your hand work but I couldn't remember your user name here (so simple now that i see it but...I'm old) and after spending an hour or so riffling through likely threads looking for your previous posts, I gave up and just deleted the sentence. But if it is any consolation I was thinking about you when I was writing that.
     


  2. duncanbootmaker

    duncanbootmaker Well-Known Member

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    Don't 'sweat it', DW. I'm, hopefully, not too stuck up to think I should be mentioned in reference to anything about hand sewing :) And this is, after all, a thread about Japanese Bespoke. I just piped up to let you know that your guesstimate of the time to hand sew a top line was very good. As I said, I'm very impressed with the hand welt sewing of some of these chaps, and I have a lot to live up to in this respect. Far fewer hours are spent sewing welts than in closing the uppers, so therefore less practice, *and* it's more difficult.
    Cheers
    P.S. ...thanks for the vote of confidence :)
     


  3. DWFII

    DWFII Bespoke Boot and Shoemaker Dubiously Honored

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    @duncanbootmaker,

    Well, you're the only one I know who regularly does hand sewing on the upper at anything close to Traditional frequency and quality.

    FWIW, while I too admire the welt stitching of these makers, I personally don't think even 18 spi is anywhere near as difficult as upper work at 30. Or even 25.

    IMO...
     


  4. ThinkDerm

    ThinkDerm Stylish Dinosaur

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  5. jrb666

    jrb666 Senior Member

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    Fukuda RTW are 240,000¥.

    MTO 280,000¥.

    Bespoke - I didn't dare ask.
     


  6. geeboo

    geeboo Well-Known Member

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    DWFII - I would guess piercing thr a thicker & harder leather would be more manageable than a thinner piece, why do you say the reverse is true ?
     


  7. DWFII

    DWFII Bespoke Boot and Shoemaker Dubiously Honored

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    This puzzles me...I don't think I did say that. Just the opposite.
     


  8. duncanbootmaker

    duncanbootmaker Well-Known Member

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    I definitely find hand sewing uppers (a couple of mm of Kangaroo) is easier than outsoles (5 or 6mm of welt and compressed sole leather), though I don't sew at those higher frequencies (uppers 14 - 20spi, soles around 12spi). Of course, hand sewing through a 4 layer stacked leather heel is the hardest by far :D .Hopefully, as time goes on, my stitch count will increase :)
    I *really* would like to see some of the top Japanese guys take up hand rolling threads and hand sewing uppers.
     


  9. dawei94

    dawei94 Well-Known Member

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    Black captoe oxfords by Shoji Kawaguchi at Marquess. First visited him in October of 2016, then again in late June of 2017 for the fitting after he mailed me the fitting shoes. He mailed these out to me right before Christmas. My feet are very wide and flat, so I have lots of issues finding RTW or even St Crispin's personal last that fit me well and don't look like a blob. These look great to me and the fit seems great so far (only had a chance to try them on briefly, no real wear yet). Overall, extremely satisfied, and look forward to future commissions. With shipping, these were 353k yen, and I think some portion of that is attributable to a one-time last fee.

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  10. Stefan88

    Stefan88 Senior Member

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    Very nice!

    Lovely and minimalistic pattern
     


  11. Kashiwa

    Kashiwa Senior Member

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    I'm wondering if there are any further thoughts, opinions, reviews on the Trading Post originals made by Central Shoes?

    They were discussed on this thread a few years back but I didn't see anything recent. I live in Tokyo and find it very difficult to find shoes in my size but Trading Post does offer their shoes in an 11, which is basically a US 12.

    Any owners out there?
     


  12. dawei94

    dawei94 Well-Known Member

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    Thanks! I wanted to start with something that I could wear in a variety of settings, particularly for work. My first St. Crispin's personal last had almost the exact same pattern as well (black adelaide captoe oxford, but the heel counter didn't go as far forward). I also have a burgundy quarter brogue from YF and a dark brown double monk from Spigola coming in as well, so comparison pics will be coming when those arrive.
     


  13. brax

    brax Senior Member

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    Awesome. You showed great restraint and it paid off. A perfect rendition of a shoe that must be in every man's wardrobe.
     


  14. j ingevaldsson

    j ingevaldsson Distinguished Member

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    Received my fourth bespoke pair from Yohei Fukuda. An adelaide model he has made for previous bespoke customers which I really loved, and managed to find the perfect brown leather for it, IMO. Fit is really good, and think they look amazing. A bunch of pics (more can be found on my blog):

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    Last edited: Jan 13, 2018 at 3:05 PM


  15. clee1982

    clee1982 Distinguished Member

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    How much is his bespoke again (roughly)?
     


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