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Japanese Shoes: Bespoke & RTW Super Thread

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by nutcracker, Apr 4, 2013.

  1. clee1982

    clee1982 Stylish Dinosaur

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    AC is still GW right? For me at least at that price range bugs me a bit...
     


  2. galileo

    galileo Senior Member

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    AC should be GYW afair.
    In such case I will keep my AC as I got very low instep too - so low that even Joe Works don't work well
     


  3. daizawaguy

    daizawaguy Senior Member

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    Indeed AC is GW, and made in Northampton. YF RTW is made of the same leather on offer for bespoke, HW and seems made by aspiring artisans - the number of hours dedicated to each pair is significantly longer than any other RTW. Here are some close-ups of details. I wore these yesterday for a full day, and can confirm the half size down from my GG is fair - the profile is very much YF -sleek, fine curves in vamp and toe, good arch contour and as close you will get to a bespoke in a RTW.

    5656ED78-C90B-4BFC-A2D6-68E80EA44787.jpeg

    C1AC216B-9124-41E6-AF73-98302AD8CE31.jpeg

    90D0784C-8565-41C6-B47E-A94FBC84BB3D.jpeg

    14BCA70D-ADCE-45D4-8926-5471F2C7EB21.jpeg

    65328000-2BBF-455B-A024-D2FA611ACC8D.jpeg
     


  4. Odd I/O

    Odd I/O Distinguished Member

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    What ever happened to this venture? Did Koji Endo ever make it to Toronto?
     


  5. NycLondon

    NycLondon Senior Member

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    Does any aficionado here know if Imai Hiroki is still producing? His web page is for sale. But other places in Japan suggest he is going strong. I am in Japan next March.
     


  6. clee1982

    clee1982 Stylish Dinosaur

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  7. findingthingsou

    findingthingsou Member

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    Does anyone know if FUKUDA's shoes are totally handmade from start to finish or are they bench made bespoke? Does anyone know shoemakers who offer full bespoke? Thanks
     


  8. ThunderMarch

    ThunderMarch Distinguished Member

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    What are your definitions of "full bespoke", "bench made bespoke", and "totally handmade"?

    Fukuda's system of achieving the desired fit is based on modifications of a base last. He generally fits once, the fitting shoes are handwelted but unfinished and cut open after the fitting.

    The uppers are closed with a sewing machine (as almost all other makers do as well) and not hand stitched. All shoes are hand lasted, handwelted and apart from his RTW range, all have hand stitched outsoles.
     


  9. clee1982

    clee1982 Stylish Dinosaur

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    Is there a maker close upper by hand?
     


  10. ThunderMarch

    ThunderMarch Distinguished Member

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    None that I know of in Japan.

    Though things like apron stitching and round closing of a split toe seam on split toe derbies, can be done by hand by numerous Japanese makers.
     


  11. DWFII

    DWFII Bespoke Boot and Shoemaker Dubiously Honored

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    Consider...most high end makers around the world sew at about 15 stitches per inch with a sewing machine. And the stitches are small, well formed, and well layed. It takes about 30 seconds to sew the topline on a shoe, for instance, with a sewing machine.

    Hand sewing would have to duplicate, or better, the stitch frequency as well as the finesse of the sewing machine, to be worth doing.

    For instance, to hand sew the topline at 18spi (and 30 spi would be closer to Traditional standards) would probably take roughly six hours (I'm speculating and assuming someone who is very practiced and very skilled) and would require a control and finesse that few today can consistently achieve.

    And leather. And tools. And techniques...that are near-as-nevermind lost.
     
    Last edited: Dec 27, 2017


  12. findingthingsou

    findingthingsou Member

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    I see. I'm not against someone using a tool to make things perfect as can be. I was curious as to how much he uses them. I assume this is true for all the Japanese shoemakers then to varying degrees.

    ...I've read a lot of the thread, although it's very large...

    Anyone have any particular favorites besides Fukuda? I contacted him and his waitlist is 2 years for bespoke. I can wait but I'm just curious.
     


  13. Stefan88

    Stefan88 Senior Member

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    Fukuda has rtw, mtm and full bespoke.

    I use Marquess, and like working with him.
     


  14. ThinkDerm

    ThinkDerm Stylish Dinosaur

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    I saw somewhere online that moving to TO was harder than he thought it would be. Didn't happen.
     


  15. duncanbootmaker

    duncanbootmaker Well-Known Member

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    Yeah, 4 - 6 hours sounds about right DW :) It's a special kind of madness. Some of the hand out-soling done in Japan is very impressive. They have the potential to be stunning hand closers, if the right clientele were prepared to pay for it (which they should). And the right leather? Veg. kangaroo :)
     


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