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Japanese Shoes: Bespoke & RTW Super Thread

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by nutcracker, Apr 4, 2013.

  1. daizawaguy

    daizawaguy Senior member

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    @ThinkDerm - difficult to resist not to! A Black imitation brogue, the same as the one in dark Brown...fitting shoes in six months, and finished in a year or so...
     


  2. ntempleman

    ntempleman Senior member

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    If you’re skilled enough cut a channel in a bit of 1/16” dress welt without going through the back, I'd hope that you’ve put a similar amount of time into stitching stitching it neatly
     


  3. bengal-stripe

    bengal-stripe Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    Apparently, your colleague Bill Bird, at one of the Independent Shoemakers meetings few years back, presented a pair of Tuczek shoes (from the Golden Age of shoe making) which were stitched to something like 6 stitches/inch, while the wheeling on top of the welt was 16/inch.

    What we will never know, were those the specifications of Tuczek or did some clever outworker see an opportunity to finish the job somewhat quicker (in accordance with that old shoemaker's maxim: "Small stitches make quality work, large stitches buy you bread!").
     


  4. DWFII

    DWFII Bespoke Boot and Shoemaker Dubiously Honored

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    FWIW, it is also possible to cut a vertical channel in the welt and "embed" the stitches in this channel. Between burnishing and fudging the stitching is equally (or near-as-nevermind) invisible.
     


  5. ntempleman

    ntempleman Senior member

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    I’ve always said there’s not enough love given to the No.4 fudge. If someone insists on exhibition work, just go round 2 or 3 times. Job done
     


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