Japanese Shoes: Bespoke & RTW Super Thread

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by nutcracker, Apr 4, 2013.

  1. bamboo

    bamboo Senior member

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    Is he the one at Bemer?
     


  2. ThunderMarch

    ThunderMarch Senior member

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  3. aristoi bcn

    aristoi bcn Senior member

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    So, is he located in Florence?
     


  4. ThunderMarch

    ThunderMarch Senior member

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  5. j ingevaldsson

    j ingevaldsson Senior member

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    ^^^Akira has really been an important part in improving the finish and level of craftsmanship of Bemer's bespoke.
     


  6. bamboo

    bamboo Senior member

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    Bemer family's shoes look more refined than Ugolini group. I am not saying one is better than the other. They have different taste.

    Actually I think even after Mr. Tani's departure quite a big proportion of Stefano Bemer's workshop are still Japanese. or did it change?
     


  7. ThunderMarch

    ThunderMarch Senior member

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    Bemer's bespoke operation is almost basically "Japan made", without being made in Japan.
    Apart from Akira Tani, who does basically all the finishing work for their sixpence bespoke, their other 2 main, and best makers, AND teachers, are Japanese too.
    That being said, I don't think Akira has any immediate plans on returning to Japan to set up shop.
     


  8. wristandfeet

    wristandfeet Senior member

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    I've always loved side elastic (lazyman) shoes. However, I have always had the impression that these don't last quite as long as typical laceups because over time the elasticity would give in.

    Otherwise, my next pair of bespoke would definitely be side-elastic. Is my impression accurate?

    Thank you!
     


  9. daizawaguy

    daizawaguy Senior member

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    Elastic very easy to replace, and is remarkably strong if a top quality one is used.
     


  10. wristandfeet

    wristandfeet Senior member

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    Ah! it never occurred to me that they could be replaced. That's very comforting to know. Thank you!
     


  11. Concordia

    Concordia Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    Very comfy, if a tad less supportive than tightly-laced oxfords.

    Some recommend for air travel for just this reason, although it can be annoying to need a shoe-horn after security (for those not in TSA's good graces).

    One thing I tried in my only pair that is cosmetically nice is to eliminate the outside elastic, leaving only the one on the inside. Looks a bit better if the accordion-finish is not for you.
     


  12. j ingevaldsson

    j ingevaldsson Senior member

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    The new EU-Japan free trade agreement is very interesting seen from a shoe nerds perspective. Although shoes and leather products are some of the products that won't be included in the direct removal of custom duties, it will instantly go down from 30% to 21% customs and over a 10 year period step by step be completely removed. Hopefully the preliminary one now signed will be definite and implemented quite rapidly.
     


  13. Stefan88

    Stefan88 Senior member

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    0% here in Norway :-D
     


  14. j ingevaldsson

    j ingevaldsson Senior member

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    You lucky bastards! :smile:
     


  15. damiance

    damiance Well-Known Member

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    Interview with Yohei Fukuda / London Super Trunk Show
     


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