Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by nutcracker, Apr 4, 2013.
Is he the one at Bemer?
So, is he located in Florence?
^^^Akira has really been an important part in improving the finish and level of craftsmanship of Bemer's bespoke.
Bemer family's shoes look more refined than Ugolini group. I am not saying one is better than the other. They have different taste.
Actually I think even after Mr. Tani's departure quite a big proportion of Stefano Bemer's workshop are still Japanese. or did it change?
Bemer's bespoke operation is almost basically "Japan made", without being made in Japan.
Apart from Akira Tani, who does basically all the finishing work for their sixpence bespoke, their other 2 main, and best makers, AND teachers, are Japanese too.
That being said, I don't think Akira has any immediate plans on returning to Japan to set up shop.
I've always loved side elastic (lazyman) shoes. However, I have always had the impression that these don't last quite as long as typical laceups because over time the elasticity would give in.
Otherwise, my next pair of bespoke would definitely be side-elastic. Is my impression accurate?
Elastic very easy to replace, and is remarkably strong if a top quality one is used.
Ah! it never occurred to me that they could be replaced. That's very comforting to know. Thank you!
Very comfy, if a tad less supportive than tightly-laced oxfords.
Some recommend for air travel for just this reason, although it can be annoying to need a shoe-horn after security (for those not in TSA's good graces).
One thing I tried in my only pair that is cosmetically nice is to eliminate the outside elastic, leaving only the one on the inside. Looks a bit better if the accordion-finish is not for you.
The new EU-Japan free trade agreement is very interesting seen from a shoe nerds perspective. Although shoes and leather products are some of the products that won't be included in the direct removal of custom duties, it will instantly go down from 30% to 21% customs and over a 10 year period step by step be completely removed. Hopefully the preliminary one now signed will be definite and implemented quite rapidly.
0% here in Norway
You lucky bastards!
Interview with Yohei Fukuda / London Super Trunk Show
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