Japanese Shoes: Bespoke & RTW Super Thread

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by nutcracker, Apr 4, 2013.

  1. Dannefalk

    Dannefalk Affiliate Vendor

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    IMG_4040.JPG IMG_4037.JPG IMG_4087.JPG Recieved this pair from Hiro Yanagimachi a few days ago. I know it's not everyone's cup of tea but I like them!
     
  2. ericgereghty

    ericgereghty Senior member

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    I like everything but the leather. I think the ghillie design is very cool
     
  3. bamboo

    bamboo Senior member

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    Rendo Asakusa- RTW maker in Japan. They produce a relatively less expensive Good Year welted shoes in shoe capital of Tokyo, Asakusa. Price is slightly less than USD 400 for their normal offering.

    They have IG and website and found the shoes attractive so I gave a try.

    Construction is good, finish is not too fancy but not rough.
    Channel on the sole is closed not open.
    I think shape is good.

    Fitting: I would say the last shape is on a slender side. I take the same size as GG or EG and I would definitely need a more time to break-in. Instep is not high and heel cup is small. Maybe it is close to Carmina Simpson (which I tried in the past by I have not owned)

    Size: they have from US 6 to about US 10 (not sure how big they can go).

    Leather quality: Their normal offering is Japanese cow hide, which is more grown up cow than calf. It creases differently. French calf is available when they have MTO event at selected department store in Tokyo. I chose French calf but I would say this may not be the best one available. Suede is from a usual UK tannery.

    Unfortunately, you really cannot customize your pair including the choice of leather other than at MTO events as mentioned above. Otherwise they basically have black and brown smooth leather and that is it.

    If you are after normal business shoes and your foot is not so wide and big, they are worthwhile to check out. IMG_20170520_141101_581.jpg
     
  4. ThinkDerm

    ThinkDerm Senior member

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  5. duncanbootmaker

    duncanbootmaker Well-Known Member

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    Whew! After about 6 months of reading this thread, since I discovered it, during lunch times and spare 1/2 hours ( or more :embar: ) I have finally caught up to the end of it! Thank You, Nutcracker, and the other contributors, for a very inspiring read. This thread is a challenge to raise the bar with my work :-D
    Well done, and keep it coming.
     
  6. ThunderMarch

    ThunderMarch Senior member

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    Don't sell yourself short, Duncan.
    You've already set the bar pretty high yourself.
    None of the Japanese makers (or at least none that I know of), even the best ones, hand close their uppers like you do. Some even have closing done by outworkers.
     
  7. duncanbootmaker

    duncanbootmaker Well-Known Member

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    Cheers ThunderMarch :) I *do* need to pay attention to the form of my lasts and soles; not to copy what is here, but to refine and sharpen up the shape.
     
  8. Dannefalk

    Dannefalk Affiliate Vendor

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    When they were over in Stockholm for the Super Trunkshow!
     
  9. j ingevaldsson

    j ingevaldsson Senior member

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    Picked up a new pair from Yohei Fukuda today, came out really nice and the fitting is getting close to perfect now. Some pics:
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  10. aristoi bcn

    aristoi bcn Senior member

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    Beautiful. BTW, I can't find Fukuda's website anymore. Do you have the same problem?
     
  11. j ingevaldsson

    j ingevaldsson Senior member

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    Thanks! Yes we talked about that, apparently it's a problem on mac computers, he is trying to solve it.
     
  12. j ingevaldsson

    j ingevaldsson Senior member

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    Had my first fitting with Eiji Murata, alias Main d'Or, this weekend. They fit quite well already, although there's some things to be done ahead of the second fitting in October. Took some more pics of his spectacular sample shoes as well (it seems like the new SF don't have the hide-function anymore, so sorry for a long post):

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    He works a lot with the bottom of the last:

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    One thing is the elevation made under the transverse metatarsal arch, which felt really nice:

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    On the feet:

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    Eiji Murata checking sole wear to judge fit better:

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    This black pair he had just finished for himself (first own pair he had made in many years):

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    DSC05566.jpg DSC05581.jpg DSC05596.jpg DSC05613.jpg View attachment 789783 DSC05634.jpg

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  13. damiance

    damiance Well-Known Member

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    interview with Hiro Yanagimachi during The London Super Trunk Show:
     
  14. j ingevaldsson

    j ingevaldsson Senior member

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    Nice to see!
     

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