Japanese Shoes: Bespoke & RTW Super Thread

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by nutcracker, Apr 4, 2013.

  1. BespokeMakers

    BespokeMakers Senior member

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    World market are constantly changing.
    Famous quote "history repeats itself."
    Where is the boundary line of bad taste and good taste?

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    Hidetaka Fukaya Bespoke


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    John Lobb Paris Bespoke for Osamu Shigematsu, UNITED ARROWS LTD. Chairman and Director
    "SHIGEMATSU Model"

    make a long nose...?
     
    Last edited: Apr 27, 2013


  2. chogall

    chogall Senior member

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    I still like the default John Lobb Paris Shigematsu/Eliot model better. Just my personal preference.
     


  3. Fang66

    Fang66 Senior member

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    Tiny nose compared to some of the clown shoes on display in Tokyo recently.
     


  4. nutcracker

    nutcracker Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    Bespoke Order with Il Quadrifoglio

    OK, I received my shoes yesterday from Mr.Q-nai, and I am quite ecstatic with the outcome, considering it's the first order with him.
    I've documented the order process over the months, and these pics should give some idea.

    I always wanted a fine pair of wingtips. Had an English style in mind, but wasn't sure if I wanted them really dressy, or something more versatile. I've never seen an Il Quadrifoglio wingtip before, so didn't know what to expect. I went I saw this one, I went bonkers..

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    You gotta be kiddin. In textured green? These must be the coolest wingtips I've ever seen!

    "Excuse me sir? I want to take these home today....oh, these are samples? gotta order one? ok.....lets do it"

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    The swatch....from Ilcea...

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    Qnai taking Measurements

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    My feet are really wimpy. Short, skinny, and flat footed....

    Several months later....The trial fitting session

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    Fit is very good. But I prefer a slightly tighter hold

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    Hmmmm....a lil space in here....

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    Knife injected....Aha! A pocket of space! lets shave off a lil more....

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    The toes felt too squarish, so I asked them to be slightly rounded

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    Should look like this right??? hmmmmm

    I loved the olive green, but I found myself doubting whether these are too casual for work....so...

    Change of mind!! I decided to go for a more dressy look. Yes, this will be my ultimate brown dress shoes....

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    Lovely Ilcea calfskin. Got a lil red in these brown, not quite burgundy....perfect!!

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    Order sheet. I don't understand Italian..
    As you can see, I was thinking of some funky seemless heels with medalions on the heel counter.

    But with further consultation with Mr.Qnai, I decided to go even more sleek and go for a WHOLE CUT with imitation brogues.
    With no medalion on the butt or the toe. Classic style 6 eyelets. Always loved the look of G&G/Deco wholecuts.
    My direct inspiration actually came from a picture of a Cleverley Bespoke with imitation brogue, no med, and elastic side.

    What a detour....but there you go, I decided on a whole cut with imitation brogues (no elastic).
    I received my shoes yesterday, and couldn't be happier. Haven't had a chance to take pictures, but will do so later...
     
    Last edited: Apr 27, 2013


  5. TehBunny

    TehBunny Senior member

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    Confuckinggratulations! Hope they turn out great!
     


  6. chogall

    chogall Senior member

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    Sounds like quite an experience. Very flexible for Mr Qnai to meet clients ever changing needs.
     


  7. meister

    meister Senior member

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    You said no to Cleverley meets Bestetti with a subtle "wear anywhere green"? :facepalm:

    Just the blackened toe antiqueing alone is so awesome?
     
    Last edited: Apr 27, 2013


  8. BespokeMakers

    BespokeMakers Senior member

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    I love these shoes.
    You got a Masterpiece.
    I'm looking forward to next pair of il Quadrifoglio.
     


  9. nutcracker

    nutcracker Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    Thanks! I'll post them tonight :fonz:



    Yes, I know how much of a pain I am :facepalm: But yeah, I'm lucky he was kind enough to accommodate my requests without any hesitation.



    You are correct. I had the nuts to refuse them :brick:
    I may have stuck with it if there was someone there to slap me out of my indecision :lol:


    Yes, those wingtips are drool-worthy in many ways. I'm sure he gets a lot of orders to make that same exact shoes!

    Though I must say I'm very satisfied with my pair.
     


  10. balex

    balex New Member

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    Just got back from Tokyo, where I bought three pairs of Il Cornu Blu. I tried on some other RTW brands like Perfetto, but I thought they were a bit too fussy.
    Too early to make a judgment but they seem to be working out pretty well; I got a wholecut 3 tier oxford in cognac, a very dark brown oxford half brogue, and some penny loafers in cognac. very Italian in style.
    One glitch with the loafers is that they are starting to peel back at the toe after I got caught in a downpour (they are close channeled so I mean the thin layer that covers everything) so I am having toe taps fitted.

    (first post!)
     


  11. bamboo

    bamboo Senior member

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    >balex Congratulation. Pictures please!
     
    Last edited: Apr 28, 2013


  12. nutcracker

    nutcracker Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    Welcome to the forum! Wow, guess you took a plunge with 3 pairs of Corno Blu....from Isetan? Yes they are very Italian in style, but they are all goodyear welted shoes right?.

    and the rain problem you described... it happens, and I've heard it happen on JL, GG, and other nice shoe brands with closed channel. I don't think it means that the shoes are of lesser quality. I suppose you can glue it back on, or take it to a cobbler and see how he deals with it.
     
    Last edited: Apr 28, 2013


  13. bamboo

    bamboo Senior member

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    Sorry it is another un-sexy picture of GOC. RTW line. Model: Rusty

    Actually I would like to share the information about the repair by RESH previously mentioned. Toe part of the sole was wearing near enough to the welt, so I decided to enhance it with rubber.

    I did this at RESH shop in Mitsukoshi, Nihombashi.
    It is about JPY 2000 and it takes about 30min or so.

    They cut out the sole and replaced it with wedge shaped rubber and finish it to blend with remaining part.

    They can do this with leather, rubber or metal. Metal costs about JPY 4000.


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  14. chogall

    chogall Senior member

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    They did a very good job on the flushed rubber toe tips. Wish we have that kind of services here in San Francisco Bay Area.
     


  15. add911_11

    add911_11 Senior member

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    I wonder why Japanese clients still come to UK for bespoke shoe order? Most things I have seen here are above the typical London bespoke shoemarker's capacity.
     


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