Japanese Shoes: Bespoke & RTW Super Thread

[Ccw55]



Just to follow up on my toe taps installation experience after my numerous questions about repair shops in Osaka (Tokyo gets more love around here I suppose )

Was supposed to have the taps installed on my Enzo button boots at Rifare but they were closed on the day I went down (should have paid attention to their designated rest day as they're closed on Wednesday every week.)

With a heavy heart and on the last day of my trip, was wandering around Hankyu mens and Lucua1100 (ex Isetan Men) when I noticed the men shoes repair counter on the 8th floor. I only realized that Nutcracker has mentioned them here (i.e. RESH) on numerous occasions previously after my trip when I'm back home.

With all that said, here are the pictures of the work done (bandwidth intensive):

Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!

Condition of sole before taps installation

I was given 3 options for the type of taps to be installed by the staff (Mr Kida) and he recommended that I go with the one on the top left (dull brass) as he feels the one at the top right suits the more rugged style footwear (i.e. country boots, work boots, etc). The one (dull metallic) at the bottom right is similar to the one I had installed but he mentioned that both taps will wear the same in the long run (i.e. to white/grey metallic)

End result in 30 mins. Just enough time for me to pop over to Maker's shirt to purchase a couple of their OCBDs at Osaka Geofront just beside Lucua1100.

Mr Kida (the staff that did the taps installation) has a great command of English and is a very experienced cobbler(12 years under his belt). Had a nice chat with him regarding the other possible repairs (i.e. single leather resole at 14,000JPY before tax) and additional 3000JPY for double sole) there. He also asked if I was comfortable with having the shoe waxed and polished by them at no additional charges. Paid 3780JPY for the work done and was very pleased with the result.

Got a name card from him for anyone who's interested:

1 hour is insanely fast! Guess il drop by to have a chat the next chance i get. Thanks for the info, much appreciated

 

[banjo]

Hi - hoping you can help me. I was recently in Japan and bought a pair of hand-made leather shoes in a shoe store in the Asakusa area. The brand on the inside says 'MoMo'. I'm trying to track this brand down because I want another pair but I can't find them anywhere online?
Cheers

 

[linafelt]

Rolling Dub Trio Coupen Boots. Ordered from Masuya to the US; very easy to work with.

 

[letsi]



1 hour is insanely fast! Guess il drop by to have a chat the next chance i get. Thanks for the info, much appreciated

1 hour?! The cobbler I went to in Ikebukuro station took a day due to their backlog. I may give Kida-san a visit for my Madras shoes when I pick them up next month.

To be exact, it took less than 30 minutes but he did preface me saying the duration of the taps installation also depends on the wear level of the front soles. If the wear on them is too deep then it might take longer.

 

[Jtchinoy]



To be exact, it took less than 30 minutes but he did preface me saying the duration of the taps installation also depends on the wear level of the front soles. If the wear on them is too deep then it might take longer.

Plan to get taps installed once I receive the shoes, so not a problem.

 

[jasonmx3]

The information is probably buried somewhere in this 250-page thread, but would anyone have a recommendation for a good quality cobbler in Tokyo? Preferably in Marunouchi/Ginza area?

I recently acquired a few new pairs, so I'd like to install rubber half soles/taps on them. I also have some old pairs that need re-heeling. I have heard of Brass Tokyo before, but they're a bit far and the prices on their website are a little discouraging (to be fair, the website prices are only for whole sole replacements).

I had a very good quality cobbler when I was still living in Kobe (recommended by another SFer), so I'm hoping to find another one now that I've moved to Tokyo.

 

[Stefan88]



The information is probably buried somewhere in this 250-page thread, but would anyone have a recommendation for a good quality cobbler in Tokyo? Preferably in Marunouchi/Ginza area?

I recently acquired a few new pairs, so I'd like to install rubber half soles/taps on them. I also have some old pairs that need re-heeling. I have heard of Brass Tokyo before, but they're a bit far and the prices on their website are a little discouraging (to be fair, the website prices are only for whole sole replacements).

I had a very good quality cobbler when I was still living in Kobe (recommended by another SFer), so I'm hoping to find another one now that I've moved to Tokyo.

I believe brass change 3000 yen or so for metal tips.
Try union works in ginza? Looked very good when I was there.

 

[jasonmx3]

I believe brass change 3000 yen or so for metal tips.
Try union works in ginza? Looked very good when I was there.

Thank you. I checked the Union Works website and the prices are somewhat reasonable (assuming the quality is good). Plus, it's really close to my office.

Will try to drop by this week and sample their work on an old pair.

 

[daizawaguy]

Union Works is possibly the best shoe repair shop (in the world). There attention to detail is bar none. There are also numerous shoe repair shops in places like Mitsukoshi, Hankyu, World Footwear Gallery, and even ABC Mart, to name a few... Attesso out from Shibuya on the Inokashira line at Ikenoue has some of the finest work for the best prices. The choice is yours really. Let us know your experiences...

 

[jasonmx3]

Union Works is possibly the best shoe repair shop (in the world). There attention to detail is bar none. There are also numerous shoe repair shops in places like Mitsukoshi, Hankyu, World Footwear Gallery, and even ABC Mart, to name a few... Attesso out from Shibuya on the Inokashira line at Ikenoue has some of the finest work for the best prices. The choice is yours really. Let us know your experiences...

Great! Another vote for Union Works. I'll let you know how it goes after I've visited them.

And yes, I've seen those cobblers in big department stores but I've never really tried them before. Adesso looks good, and slightly cheaper, but the distance (while lugging several pairs of leather shoes) would probably offset any savings vis-a-vis Union Works.

 

[Jtchinoy]

Can someone help me understand how the MTO ordering process works?
I was called by Madras this week to pick up my shoes, but during measuring in January they said there'll be a test fitting and I receive the shoes finished 2 weeks later. Am I actually picking up the shoes tomorrow if there's no need for major revisions? Or will they be only partially complete for testing?
It's only my 2nd pair of proper dress shoes and my first MTO pair, so I'm new to the entire process.

 

[Jtchinoy]

Got to try or my shoes today. Needs a couple adjustments for my little toes and my left arch, but overall looking good.

 

[bamboo]

Can someone help me understand how the MTO ordering process works?
I was called by Madras this week to pick up my shoes, but during measuring in January they said there'll be a test fitting and I receive the shoes finished 2 weeks later. Am I actually picking up the shoes tomorrow if there's no need for major revisions? Or will they be only partially complete for testing?
It's only my 2nd pair of proper dress shoes and my first MTO pair, so I'm new to the entire process.

Hi. It must be too late, but what actually happened? Usually MTO process does not involve test fitting in my experience.

 

[Jtchinoy]



Hi. It must be too late, but what actually happened?  Usually MTO process does not involve test fitting in my experience.

I went in, and as you see in the post above yours, and I put on some test shoes. Being MTO( MTM?) and not bespoke, I don't know if they'll modify this particular pair into my final pair, or if they'll make the whole thing with better leather that's painted. The leather was quite comfortable, but it creased far too easily for shoes that were slightly north of 70,000 yen.

They had me walk around for a bit. I took maybe 20 feet of steps. I gave them my feedback and then I was on my way. Assuming they fix the fit in my little toes and left arch, they should come out perfect in 2 weeks.

 

[bamboo]

Quote: I understand that some test shoes mean their gauge shoes to check your feet. I checked their web site and they make adjustment based on your foot length, ball girth and instep.
Test shoes may have softer leather to show the creases easily to check the fit.