Japanese Shoes: Bespoke & RTW Super Thread

[PeeCeeBee]

Looks great! do they have mail order or retail store-front?

I visited their workshop during my holiday trip recently and placed an order after trying out the sizing.
From my conversation with them, they do not have retail store front at the moment but is working on mail order (not sure when it would be ready though).
They offer MTO options where you can choose the type of leather (calf, suede, cordovan in various colours) and also the sole type (leather, dainite).
As mentioned in some posts earlier on, they make RTW for Clematis Ginza and some of them supposedly be available at Isetan this month.
Below is an example of Clematis Ginza RTW made by them.

 

[manasdirge]

I visited their workshop during my holiday trip recently and placed an order after trying out the sizing.
From my conversation with them, they do not have retail store front at the moment but is working on mail order (not sure when it would be ready though).
They offer MTO options where you can choose the type of leather (calf, suede, cordovan in various colours) and also the sole type (leather, dainite).
As mentioned in some posts earlier on, they make RTW for Clematis Ginza and some of them supposedly be available at Isetan this month.
Below is an example of Clematis Ginza RTW made by them.

Looks nice! will try ordering a pair when their mail order system is up

 

[Stefan88]

Marquess

 

[bamboo]

I've been reading a wonderful book on the origins of made in America-clothing in Japan, titled Ametora. A question I didn't find an answer there: Does someone know who first imported Western Goodyear-welted, full-leather shoes into Japan?

I am not sure this answers your question, but I believe you have heard of Otsuka. It was founded in 1872 to make Western shoes and company website says it imported GY machine in 1922.

Web site is in Japanese, I hope Google translates works well enough.

http://www.otsuka-shoe.com/history/index.html

 

[VRaivio]

ˆThank you! I didn't remember the name of this factory, it may just be the first of its kind in Japan.

 

[VegTan]

Otsuka began to import Church's in 1965.

Shirai Toshio (1937-) says he bought Florsheim #93602 for 25,000 yen in the early 1960s at Futabaya (1897-) when his monthly salary was 16,000 yen.
http://blog.goo.ne.jp/hito0815/e/2eebc52544a741e52f45965a58f240b5

The first specialty store Tomoeya of imported boots & luggage was founded in 1869, but I don't know whether they were Goodyear-welted.
http://roudouundoumeiji.com/rekisi-3.html

 

[PeeCeeBee]

Some Otsuka and Miyogi Kgoyo i have seen and in some cases tried on during the trip:-

Miyogi Kogyo split toe derby at World Footwear Gallery



Otsuka RTW at Isetan Mens



Otsuka Shoten (supposedly higher end range) button boots at Isetan Mens 66,000 yen


Otsuka generic RTW whole cut with open channel stitching at Isetan Mens

 

[Ccw55]

Some Otsuka and Miyogi Kgoyo i have seen and in some cases tried on during the trip:-

Miyogi Kogyo split toe derby at World Footwear Gallery



Otsuka RTW at Isetan Mens



Otsuka Shoten (supposedly higher end range) button boots at Isetan Mens 66,000 yen


Otsuka generic RTW whole cut with open channel stitching at Isetan Mens

@PeeCeeBee Nice pictures man, these look great! I'm guessing your wallet got a little lighter after visiting these stores

I'm assuming the RTW line all cost approximately 33 000 yen? Any comments on how the quality of the leather looked would be very much appreciated.

 

[PeeCeeBee]



@PeeCeeBee
Nice pictures man, these look great! I'm guessing your wallet got a little lighter after visiting these stores

I'm assuming the RTW line all cost approximately 33 000 yen? Any comments on how the quality of the leather looked would be very much appreciated.

Yes indeed the wallet got thinner after the trip.

I suspect the Otsuka RTW at 33000 yen are the imported ones (not made in Japan). Leather looks ok but would prefer those under the Otsuka Shoten range (60K to 70K range).

There are still lots of undiscovered gems in Japan. Love this place.

 

[VRaivio]

Handmade by hands - Marquess samples and toe shapes.

 

[chogall]

Marquess round toes are really beauties.

 

[aristoi bcn]

Marquess round toes are really beauties.

Their chiseled ones too (and I am a man of round toes...).

Those who have handled both Marquess and let's say...Cleverley, how do you think they compare?

 

[j ingevaldsson]

Their chiseled ones too (and I am a man of round toes...).

Those who have handled both Marquess and let's say...Cleverley, how do you think they compare?

I haven't owned any shoes from either, but seen and handled shoes from both several times. When it comes to the making, Cleverley can be really good sometimes but also, to be frank, quite bad sometimes. All Marquess pairs have been of very high standard all the way through. When it comes to the look of the lasts and design, I personally prefer Cleverley's a bit more balanced look, Marquess is extremely elegant but to me can be a bit too narrow waisted and small heeled.

 

[Stefan88]



Their chiseled ones too (and I am a man of round toes...).

Those who have handled both Marquess and let's say...Cleverley, how do you think they compare?

The only Cleveleys I've handled has been in Marquess' showroom, and they have all looked swell. As Jesper says, I do think Shoji executes every single pair to a very high level. From what I've seen personally, I think the finishing is quite similar to Fukuda less the patina work that some may enjoy. Seeing both in a few weeks time

 

[VRaivio]

Stefan, have you ever asked Shoji how many hours he and his crew spend on an average pair? This may explain why they look so neat all over.