Japanese Shoes: Bespoke & RTW Super Thread

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by nutcracker, Apr 4, 2013.

  1. VRaivio

    VRaivio Senior member

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    Thank you for the link, nutcracker! I really was blown away by the shapes Okuyama has sculpted on the monk pair pictured with the interview, as well as the wholecut model I placed after the last chapter. The lands of the rising sun also house plenty of rising cordwaining talent. Asia will rise.
     


  2. VRaivio

    VRaivio Senior member

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    Thank you for the link, nutcracker! I really was blown away by the shapes Okuyama has sculpted on the monk pair pictured with the interview, as well as the wholecut model I placed after the last chapter. The lands of the rising sun also house plenty of rising cordwaining talent. Asia will rise.
     


  3. Xenon

    Xenon Senior member

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    Yes sir!!! Thank you Nutcracker.
     


  4. nutcracker

    nutcracker Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    Yes the monk strap was the first one to catch my eye too! Really nice

    Of all the Japanese shoemakers, Okuyama-san seems to be among the few that has the total package. His craft is spectacular, but he also knows how to present/market himself very well (in English, and in Chinese?). And then he also has a roster of international clientele for being in Hong Kong. Quite surprised that he went straight to Hong Kong to start his practice (instead of Japan), but looks like it worked out for him :)

    I remember a SF member showed several of his Okuyama shoes on the Hardcore Porn thread.....
     


  5. nutcracker

    nutcracker Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    Another show coming up this weekend

    Yuki Shirahama Bottier is having a trunk show @ Mitsukoshi Isetan Department store in Osaka from 4/27~4/28.

    Isetan is the Barney's, Neiman, and Saks of Japan, so it is huge for craftsman of any discipline to get their attention/support. This is great news for Shirahama Bottier.

    Members living or visiting in Osaka should go check out what this guy is all about! or maybe even order :)

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    from allabout.co.jp
     


  6. nutcracker

    nutcracker Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    MTO Shoes Order Experience

    An article from MEN'S EX World of High-end Shoes Vol.5

    This article features actual order experiences from 4 different shoemakers (Guild/Hall&Marks, Spigola, Saion, Otsuka)
    While each maker calls it slightly different (Semi-order, Semi-Bespoke etc...), they are all essentially MTO shoes.
    Interesting to see how the various foot shapes are dealt with.
    Saion's shoes for a guy with a short, wide feet looks quite fascinating.

    open the LINK (not the image) in a new window/tab for higher resolution. Enjoy!

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  7. bamboo

    bamboo Senior member

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  8. nutcracker

    nutcracker Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    Great shoes!

    btw here are the (in)famous leather shoe trees from Guild. They are rigid (not sure how they stiffened them), and weighs like nothing. Each pair are custom made from the owner's last, and they seem to be capable of putting enough pressure to stretch out the creases.

    These are what I would like to call true 'lasted' shoe tress! Very very cool

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    Guild applied a patent for these.
     


  9. Alvinbmx

    Alvinbmx Senior member

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    Looks like it is flexible or is it totally rigid?
     


  10. nutcracker

    nutcracker Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    They're rigid, quite similar to those round leather coin cases sold in Italy. I think they are made of Vegetable tanned leather (thick)
     


  11. TehBunny

    TehBunny Senior member

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    Nutcracker you are an absolute legend for translating the shoe order pages from Mens Ex; I have been looking for something like this which involves wide ugly feet like mine for ages and I've finally found it! If possible do you have the rest of the Saion article?
     


  12. nutcracker

    nutcracker Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    Thanks TB!

    yeah I know you're looking for shoes with wide fit! This is it for this article (only 5 pages), and I don't recall seeing any other ME articles of this kind. I've posted stuffs on Saion here and there, but they're all about his sleek shoes. I'll keep my eyes open for similar articles...
     


  13. Fang66

    Fang66 Senior member

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    nutcracker san how do you think Saion compares quality wise to Queen Classico? I too am blessed/cursed with duck like feet.
     


  14. nutcracker

    nutcracker Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    Hi Fang!

    Saion specializes in making bespoke/order shoes, and those MTO shoes in the article above costs ¥180,000 or so.

    I assume you're comparing QC with Saion's MTO shoes made with McKay construction, priced around ¥40,000. yen. Those are made 90% in house at their little bespoke studio (the soles are stitched by a machine elsewhere). They offer EEE width (extra wide, good news for you), and sizes up to 28 (which may not be big enough for you). You may want to check their samples out at their Ginza store.

    Quality-wise, I would say Saion is a cut above Queen Classico's (also McKay stitched), but then QC does offer larger sizes (up to 28.5).
    btw only QC's Made in Spain/Italy line of shoes go up to 28.5, not their Made in Japan line.
     


  15. Fang66

    Fang66 Senior member

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    Thanks for the info. Yes I was refering to Saion MTO, the prices are comparable with QC.

    I have a pair of pattern order QC boots that are Goodyear welted, made in Japan, 28.5. Bought several years ago though, perhaps things have changed.
     


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