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Japanese Shoes: Bespoke & RTW Super Thread

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by nutcracker, Apr 4, 2013.

  1. Jacke

    Jacke Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    63
    Joined:
    May 13, 2012
    Location:
    Sweden
    I have just received some pictures of my first pair of shoes from Clematis Ginza. They are waiting to receive the shoe trees then they will send the shoes to me.

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    7 people like this.
  2. T4phage

    T4phage Senior member

    Messages:
    6,117
    Joined:
    Nov 12, 2003
    Location:
    sage
    
    teh photos posted
    by @nutcracker was made
    of suede treated
    to look like
    carpincho
    it looks very
    similar to teh
    swatch posted by
    @ThunderMarch
    i;ve seen it
    sometimes called
    'tapiro'
    teh pix i poasted
    seem to be dead
    nao...

    here are
    a few pix of
    real carpincho/capybara
    you can see
    the difference in
    the size of
    teh markings
    and teh distinctive
    follicles in the
    whiteish areas.

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    cleverley shoe:
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    vs
    simulated carpincho/tapiro

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    and if you feel
    teh leather in
    person
    carpincho is moar
    liek nubuck
    and the simulated
    stuff is hairer
    like fine suede
     
    Last edited: Feb 4, 2017
    3 people like this.
  3. Stefan88

    Stefan88 Senior member

    Messages:
    927
    Joined:
    Sep 27, 2012
    Location:
    Oslo
    Wow, so clean and beautiful!
     
  4. Jacke

    Jacke Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    63
    Joined:
    May 13, 2012
    Location:
    Sweden
    Thank you so much! That is what I was going for.
     
  5. ThunderMarch

    ThunderMarch Senior member

    Messages:
    1,367
    Joined:
    Oct 23, 2014
    Location:
    SG
    Looking good @Jacke
    There's just too much good stuff in Japan.
     
  6. Betelgeuse

    Betelgeuse Senior member

    Messages:
    5,073
    Joined:
    Sep 25, 2012
    Location:
    Mexico City
    Japan is really jumping out of the page with their shoes and some other stuff. I'm really impressed. Would love to have the chance to one day try their shoes. Great review @ThunderMarch
     
    1 person likes this.
  7. Jacke

    Jacke Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    63
    Joined:
    May 13, 2012
    Location:
    Sweden
    Thank you! Yes indeed. Every trip to Japan is so expensive since their are so many things to buy.
     
    Last edited: Feb 5, 2017
  8. jhgndrn

    jhgndrn New Member

    Messages:
    2
    Joined:
    Feb 25, 2017
    Hello folks,

    I was googling a bit for dress shoes as I don't like to pick out of standards brands in Holland and I found more and more sites showcasting Japanese shoes: they look fantastic. I read a few comments on how hard it is to order them online, but it's a long thread of comments. Would anyone know of any site where you can actually order or is it simply impossible?

    Thanks!
     
  9. dawei94

    dawei94 Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    86
    Joined:
    Sep 3, 2010
    I saw a few previous comments here asking if Koji Suzuki (Spigola) could take direct orders in English if you went to Japan, and the conclusion was that he doesn't respond to English emails. I wanted to report to anyone here who is considering that route that while he does not respond to cold emails in English (I tried as well), I got my Airbnb host to translate my email inquiry and he does speak good enough English to take orders without a translator. I visited his workshop in Kobe after he responded and was able to order a pair just fine. Hope that's helpful
     
  10. Bic Pentameter

    Bic Pentameter Senior member

    Messages:
    796
    Joined:
    May 1, 2002
    Location:
    Seattle
    I have helped Koji Suzuki respond to English enquiries in the past.

    Bic
     
  11. daizawaguy

    daizawaguy Senior member

    Messages:
    836
    Joined:
    Jul 13, 2012
    Location:
    Tokyo
    For fluent English speakers its Shoji Kawaguchi of Marquess and Yohei Fukuda. But in general, most of them can accept English speaking customers, but if mails are very general and not leading to direct business, its sometimes difficult to exchange much introductory mails for them, as the Japanese mail etiquette is quite different from how a foreigner would handle things - the Japanese being more formal, and would only contact someone if they have generally decided. But if you tell a Japanese shoe maker you will visit on a certain date, and have an appreciation of his work, I bet you will be accepted with open arms. As for non made to order, Global Rakuten portal has many sellers, and a good range of Japanese made shoes lower down the price spectrum.
     
    Last edited: Feb 26, 2017
  12. j ingevaldsson

    j ingevaldsson Senior member

    Messages:
    1,195
    Joined:
    Aug 24, 2011
    Hiro Yanagimachi and Seiji McCarthy are two other fluent English speakers. But as you say, most accept English speaking clients and make it work.
     
  13. bengal-stripe

    bengal-stripe Senior member Dubiously Honored

    Messages:
    4,441
    Joined:
    Mar 23, 2002
    Location:
    London, UK
    

    His name is Shoji Kawaguchi.
     
  14. jhgndrn

    jhgndrn New Member

    Messages:
    2
    Joined:
    Feb 25, 2017
    Thank you all for the input. Honestly, the question was asked to understand if contacting via email would work, as i don't have the option of going over nor am i planning making a trip (although maybe I should as i can imagine it must be a nice experience to enter workshops where craftmenship still is appreciated). So, would I stand a chance contacting these artists via email? And what kind of price level can one expect? It's certainly helpful to know formal language and having a tangible request is the way to go so thanks for the guidance on that!
     
  15. ThunderMarch

    ThunderMarch Senior member

    Messages:
    1,367
    Joined:
    Oct 23, 2014
    Location:
    SG
    

    If you are referring to bespoke shoes (your original post did not specify, so I took a hint from the word "fantastic"), and ordering them completely through email, there is zero chance of that happening.

    Even for MTO shoes, where there are no fittings, not all bespoke makers offer this, and those who do, usually require you to visit their shop first to try on fitting samples before making a decision as to whether it is even a suitable option for you.
     
    Last edited: Feb 27, 2017
  16. j ingevaldsson

    j ingevaldsson Senior member

    Messages:
    1,195
    Joined:
    Aug 24, 2011
    Made a report about TYE Shoemaker for my blog, thought I'd share some of the pics here.

    First off a bunch of sample shoes, mostly men's shoes, some for women:

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    Yohei Shiwamurra to the left, closing, and Tsyoshi Ohno, lastmaking and bottoming:

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    Pieces to be braided uppers:

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    .
     
    Last edited: Mar 5, 2017
    3 people like this.
  17. Emospence

    Emospence Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    82
    Joined:
    Jun 5, 2016
    Location:
    SGP
  18. daizawaguy

    daizawaguy Senior member

    Messages:
    836
    Joined:
    Jul 13, 2012
    Location:
    Tokyo
    A visit to Shoji Kawaguchi at Marquess for my fitting shoes. A very pleasant experience with the finest of artisans with the very highest standards in shoe making...

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    5 people like this.
  19. bamboo

    bamboo Senior member

    Messages:
    454
    Joined:
    Sep 12, 2012
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    Joeworks Last 0. 3 eyelet chukka boots. Vibram sole.

    I placed an order in Tokyo when I visited their workshop in mid Jan. The shoes was completed almost exactly after 2 months. It is very quick for some of us who are used to some of European maker's MTO.

    The first picture was taken immediately after out of the box. 2nd and 3rd pic were after 1 day wear and polishing. I applied neutral cream first and buffed, then used blue shoe cream and applied black wax. Leather quality looks quite good. It creases naturally and quality is constant through out the pair. Level of craftsmanship is high and they are very cleanly made.

    Sizing: I take the same size as Gaziano and Girling and fitting is quite good for me. Toe box area is less roomy than GG.
    This is not an oxford shoes so unfortunately I cannot compare apple to apple. My foot is not so wide and this last is quite sleek. If you have wide foot, you would need an adjustment, which they can do at no additional cost. (need confirmation as per adjustment cost)

    Minor thing:
    There were metal eyelet on the back of the facing, I may go without those if possible from next time. Sometimes the metal is visible from certain angle and I am not a fan of it.
     
    Last edited: Apr 2, 2017
    5 people like this.

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