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Japanese Shoes: Bespoke & RTW Super Thread

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by nutcracker, Apr 4, 2013.

  1. add911_11

    add911_11 Senior member

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    that's essentially Anglo-American business thinking. Not necessary the Japs.
     
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  2. dieworkwear

    dieworkwear Senior member

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    Last edited: Apr 4, 2013
  3. clee1982

    clee1982 Senior member

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    Well if Vass and G&G can do it, you would think they can too, not so much about scales, rather just start taking orders from HK/South Korea/Taiwan/Shanghai/Beijing (RTW ones, I wonder how lean their inventories are). Maybe they're doing it already, though not to my knowledge, at least not in Taiwan.
     
  4. mimo

    mimo Senior member

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    What a wonderful thread. I love what I've seen from the Japanese makers like Koji Suzuki. The creativity and the attention to detail is wonderful.
     
  5. Ilovelobbs

    Ilovelobbs Senior member

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    Stuff from: Hiro Yanagimachi

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  6. nutcracker

    nutcracker Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    you know what? Check the 2nd post on this thread where I listed the foreign trained shoemakers. A lot of them had training at the UK (Cordwainer's College, Tresham Institue), I assume they should know English to be able to graduate? :lol:
     
  7. nutcracker

    nutcracker Senior member Dubiously Honored

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  8. nutcracker

    nutcracker Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    so far I know Guild of Crafts and Spigola do shows in Hong Kong.

    I talked to other shoemakers who were also interested in Honk Kong for some reason?

    Ryoto Hayafuji has a stellar reputation and may be among the best independent Japanese shoemakers around. He lives and sell shoes in Munich Germany, I presume all his clients are from Europe.
     
  9. clee1982

    clee1982 Senior member

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    To me HK makes most sense for them, the culture is there. Even though Taiwan has larger population, I bet the market is smaller compare to HK for this kind of stuff, for reason you and I both know :satisfied: I wonder what's the case in Mainland China and South Korea though, will need some heavy marketing/word of mouth to get started I suppose...
     
  10. Ilovelobbs

    Ilovelobbs Senior member

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    Isetan must had a long list of Japanese cordwainers to team up with and in the end they went with Roberto Ugolino for design and Vass
    to scale the production front.

    I guess it's possibly economics and logistics of: shortage of skilled labour coupled with production cost in Japan. So the niche to target the
    high-end & high-margin bespoke market.
     
  11. nutcracker

    nutcracker Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    Ugolini/Vass project with Isetan was quite a few years ago Perceptions for domestic brands have changed quite a bit since. Isetan is all pushing Made in Japan now (possibly since the earthquake).

    In the past few years, Isetan teamed with: Otsuka, Tsukui Reiko (Lecott), Yoshiharu Hasegawa, Union Imperial for exclusive offerings. The Isetan exclusive full hand made Otsuka Limited shoes are priced at 200K JPY, directly aimed at top priced imported shoes.

    But of course, Isetan still does collab with foreign brands too. Not long ago, they had a special MTO (design your own) fair with Crockett & Jones, not something any store can pull off.
     
    Last edited: Apr 9, 2013
  12. nutcracker

    nutcracker Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    well actually, 5 yrs ago or so, Isetan teamed with a Japanese maker to release exclusive Made in Japan rtw shoes called Mark Bladog? priced around 100K~150K JPY or so. I think they did miserably, and was took off the shelf in a relatively short time :uhoh:
     
  13. nutcracker

    nutcracker Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    Otsuka's signature Button Up Boots. In production since 1907

    Full handmade RTW, Calf/ Goat Suede, priced ¥225,000

    [​IMG]
     
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  14. clee1982

    clee1982 Senior member

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    That's an interesting concept actually, though the price is a bit...
     
  15. nutcracker

    nutcracker Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    SAION Bespoke Catalogue Full Scan

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  16. meister

    meister Senior member

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    Tarsal straps. :tounge: What a beautiful shoe!
     
  17. chogall

    chogall Senior member

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    Didn't know REGAL has a bespoke operation.

    I know that Ms Matsuda has a huge influence inside Foster & Sons nowadays.

    But what does Kuroki Satoshi do @ JL Paris?
     
  18. nutcracker

    nutcracker Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    I think he is currently the footwear pattern engineer, meaning he creates the patterns for RTW that will be mass produced. I'm not certain of this info, maybe someone can chime in. He's been working at JL for quite.
    He also continues to work as an outworker in Northampton.
    He visits Japan occasionally and gives lectures
     
  19. nutcracker

    nutcracker Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    SAION's Yokoyama used to be in charge of REGAL's bespoke operation before he went solo as SAION


    Some REGAL Bespoke I found on their site

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    Norwegian welt
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    Horween shell cordovan / Norwegian welt
     
  20. Verniza

    Verniza Senior member

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    This thread is making me rethink my holiday plans.

    Japan seems to have such a vibrant artisanal community and I would really love to visit them. Are prices more affordable than the European makers though? Considering the large amount of competition of artisans in Japan.
     

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