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Japanese Shoes: Bespoke & RTW Super Thread

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by nutcracker, Apr 4, 2013.

  1. DWFII

    DWFII Bespoke Boot and Shoemaker Dubiously Honored

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    I didn't know that but that's the way I was taught and the way I do it. Everyone else I've run across seems to want to pull. I've done it both ways but prefer to push although in the right hands / right circumstances pulling works well. I've seen European shoemakers pull skiving against a plate of glass held to their chests.

    I have a couple of the Japanese shoemakers knives and I like them in some situations. The first one I got was given to me by a Japanese shoemaker and is pretty good steel. It was the definition of "scary sharp" when I first got it. The other I bought from goodsjapan through Ebay (?) and it has a curved blade. Wasn't as sharp initially but is pretty good now...indicating that the steel is good. I have used them to cut outsole channels...pulling...but ordinarily, I push with them.
     
    Last edited: Mar 3, 2016
  2. ntempleman

    ntempleman Senior member

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    They've got some fancy ideas over on the mainland, I tend to avoid knives and glass plates near my chest wherever possible.

    This is a useful skiver, an old Barnsley. Photo is of the bevel side, so push it with the other side up to avoid cutting in too deep.

    [​IMG]

    In conjunction with one of those wooden handled "shoemakers knives", with a concave profile from repeated sharpening. My favourite one of those died not so long ago, gradually working on another.

    Generally pull the knife when skiving upper leather though.
     
  3. DWFII

    DWFII Bespoke Boot and Shoemaker Dubiously Honored

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    Interesting. Are you skiving on glass or marble...or something else?

    I push skive through upper leather, as well. I have a domed piece of glass that I skive on and combined with a slightly hollow ground knife (as shown below), I have a tremendous amount of control, simply because when two convex surfaces meet, the area of contact is limited to very nearly a point. And as an added benefit, the "crumbs" or parings fall down the sides of the dome and out of the work area.

    In the photo below one knife is a Berg and the other is a Tina.

    [​IMG]

    (It might be worth clicking on the photo and then selecting "original" for a closer look.)
     
    Last edited: Mar 3, 2016
    1 person likes this.
  4. ntempleman

    ntempleman Senior member

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    Skive on marble here, or some sort of kitchen worktop approximate. (In amongst some inherited furniture, my wife had a marble topped commode which we auctioned off a couple of years ago due to lack of space - boy do I wish I had that now, would have been the perfect skiving station).

    That domed glass idea sounds pretty cute, I'll have to keep an eye out for something suitable when I troll the auction house next.
     
  5. nutcracker

    nutcracker Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    Cool, sorry for the mixup.

    If you're looking at the same data I"m looking at above, then 1744 out of the 3113 centenial businesses in Japan are Sake distillers and vendors, 759 Wooden constructors, 569 kimono manufacters.
    541 Hotels / inns, and 674 landlord/rentors.

    Anyway, not much to do about shoemaking, sorry.
     
  6. DWFII

    DWFII Bespoke Boot and Shoemaker Dubiously Honored

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    Actually they're not easy to find. My teacher had an "old fashioned" television screen. It was domed. I could never find one. Then I ran across a 1951 Chevy truck side corner window. Which was more like a cylinder cut in half. [In fact, I've had common glass jars cut in half lengthwise but people who will do that are very rare. The claim is that common glass jars shatter when this is attempted.]

    I've been teaching for so long people tell me that those are getting hard to find as well..because my students are buying them up.

    So then...because I was teaching...I had to come up with something else--namely an old glass one gallon cider jug dropped into a rectangular hole in the bench such that the cider jug is cradled with only half of its length showing.

    Same principle...just in case you wanted to try it. And FWIW.

    PS...and not to get too far in the weeds...I use that same glass "dome' and the same technique with the Japaneses shoemakers knife.

    --
     
    Last edited: Mar 3, 2016
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  7. ntempleman

    ntempleman Senior member

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    Kind of like a glass carboy/demijohn? Better get the homebrew kit out from the shed!
     
  8. DWFII

    DWFII Bespoke Boot and Shoemaker Dubiously Honored

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    Why in the world is it in the shed in the first place??!! :D

    I'm not sure what you're referring to but something like this is what I use (one gallon):

    [​IMG]
     
    Last edited: Mar 3, 2016
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  9. ntempleman

    ntempleman Senior member

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    Heh, I had this misguided notion that I could pick up some brewing in and around shoemaking when I started up on my own. Still waiting for these quiet days I had in mind.

    That's the exact thing I was thinking, glass carboy for fermentation.
     
  10. DWFII

    DWFII Bespoke Boot and Shoemaker Dubiously Honored

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    I wouldn't call it misguided. I did the same thing early on in my career. Made some good stuff...very scientific...Best Bitters. Stout, Amber ale. But I lost all my bottles when I tried to make Ginger ale. Probably too much residual sugar. Set them in the crawl space under the house for a while (it's cool and dark) and about three weeks later they started going off like bullets in a fire.

    We didn't dare even check under there until about six months later.
     
    Last edited: Mar 3, 2016
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  11. shoefan

    shoefan Senior member

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  12. chogall

    chogall Senior member

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    Thank you for the correction!!
     
  13. ntempleman

    ntempleman Senior member

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    Haha I knew there was a reason I kept hold of this empty bottle! (And not just because it was a leaving gift)

    [​IMG]
     
  14. nutcracker

    nutcracker Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    IL QUADRIFOGLIO / SARTORIA KAVUTO HONG KONG TRUNK SHOW
    @ Kowloon Shangrilla

    Available Slots as of 3.5.2016

    March 11th: FULL

    March 12th: 1pm, 6pm~ forth

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    Thanks!
     
    Last edited: Mar 5, 2016
  15. ntempleman

    ntempleman Senior member

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    If this wasn't such a serviceable mantle clock I could press the domed glass window into action.

    [​IMG]

    See these quite often at the auction house.

    Growing up on a boat, I'm pretty familiar with those domed portholes that are common in some boat types - they look a decent size for skiving on too.
     
    1 person likes this.
  16. DWFII

    DWFII Bespoke Boot and Shoemaker Dubiously Honored

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    I think it's great. I live not more than three hours from the coast and occasionally we wander into shops that sell nautical knick-knacks such as portholes etc.. I'm gonna look for one next time I'm over there.

    I might remark, however, that it's often useful to have a relatively straight surface...like there would be at the top of a jug turned on its side. Sometimes you have a straight, or relatively straight, run and you just want to push (or pull) through it. You still get parings falling away from the work area but the "feel" would be more like on a flat piece of glass or marble.

    FWIW....

    edited for punctuation and clarity
     
    Last edited: Mar 5, 2016
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  17. j ingevaldsson

    j ingevaldsson Senior member

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    Some pictures of domestic brands at Isetan Men's. A report and lots of more pics on my blog, can't post everything here. A selection:

    Shetland Fox:

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]


    Union Imperial:

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]


    Otsuka:

    [​IMG]


    Perfetto:

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]


    Sanyo Yamacho:

    [​IMG]


    Otsuka Shoten:

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    .
     
    Last edited: Mar 14, 2016
    5 people like this.
  18. nutcracker

    nutcracker Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    IL QUADRIFOGLIO X SARTORIA CAVUTO TRUNK SHOW in HONG KONG

    March 11~13 2016, Kowloon Shangri-La Hotel

    Thanks for everyone who showed up and ordered!

    Here are some lovely photos taken by my friend Maslow from Patina HK (who does a much better job with photoshooting than I do)


    [​IMG]
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    [​IMG]
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    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
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    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]
    Atsushi Qnai

    [​IMG]
    Yusuke Kabuto (with Masaru Okuyama)
     
    Last edited: Mar 14, 2016
    5 people like this.
  19. letsi

    letsi Senior member

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    Sorry for missing your reply. I guess I'll just take my luck with the Japanese cobblers with my beaters first before I try them with my EGs and the like.

    On the other hand, may I know if anyone here knows of other cobblers that I could take my shoes to in Osaka for resole or metal toe tap installation other than Rifare?
     
  20. Stefan88

    Stefan88 Senior member

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    You could have brass in Tokyo rewelt them by hand if need be ;)

    I've previously had a resolving by trading post whom I was happy with too. They have a store in Osaka too.
     

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