Japanese Shoes: Bespoke & RTW Super Thread

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by nutcracker, Apr 4, 2013.

  1. add911_11

    add911_11 Senior member

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    From the pictures, the lazy man oxford uses real lace. that is simply overdone. Fake one would have suit more the design.

    The grain of the calf also ring some question
     
    Last edited: Apr 15, 2013
  2. nutcracker

    nutcracker Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    [​IMG]
    Marquess
    Bespoke Lazyman Shoes in vintage Carl Freudenburg black calf

    Doesn't look bad at all with round toes
     
  3. TehBunny

    TehBunny Senior member

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    My favourite so far is by Marquess's stuff; especially the round toe last Nutcracker started this thread with they look so well proportioned and balanced.
     
  4. Fang66

    Fang66 Senior member

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    No jest, I just didn't get it. Cheers.
     
  5. FlyingMonkey

    FlyingMonkey Senior member

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    Certainly not bad, in fact beautifully made, but at the same time, just not as wonderful as a laced version because of the gill-like concertina folds that stretch the ankle to allow you to get your foot in and out.
     
    Last edited: Apr 15, 2013
  6. nutcracker

    nutcracker Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    Bespoke Sneakers by Guild of Crafts

    I came across this at the Guild boutique in Ginza. This is Yamaguchi-san's new project, dubbed "be spoken Sneaker Skip". Made to bespoke standard (with personal last, handsewn welting, fitting session etc...)
    I haven't seen an actual sample, and no info is posted on their website yet.

    Here is the brochure I managed to get.

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]
    Looks like foam cast inprints of the feet. Not sure.

    [​IMG]
    Custom insole accurately replicates the shape of your foot sole for maximum walking comfort
    (with what looks like cushion inserts).

    [​IMG]
    Oak Bark insole. Looks quite luxurious.

    [​IMG]
    Image of a completed sneaker, with what looks like ghillie style lacing. I assume the upper is made of leather.

    [​IMG]
    Custom rubber sole

    [​IMG]
    Now the pricing:
    Full hand made Bespoke sneakers go for ¥440,000.
    Semi-hand made Bespoke with machine stitched sole go for ¥290,000.
    Semi-Order (MTO) sneakers with customisable last go for ¥130,000.

    BAM! There you go, a pair of full bespoke sneakers that cost $4,500 USD. You also get a free pair of Guild's shnazzy leather shoe trees. Apparently, they had more than 10 orders of these within a month since launch.
     
    Last edited: Apr 15, 2013
  7. chogall

    chogall Senior member

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    interesting. what is the difference between bespoke sneakers and bespoke shoes?
     
  8. ThinkDerm

    ThinkDerm Senior member

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    Love that last
     
  9. nutcracker

    nutcracker Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    I think they could have called it whatever they wanted, cuz honestly these don't really look like any other sneakers I know of :lol:
    But they are probably designed for a more athletic use (if that defines a sneaker I don't know), and they do have flat rubber soles.
    In terms of construction, the full bespoke ones are hand lasted, handsewn welted, and hand stitched. They seem to be designed with a separate cushioned insole.

    I'll post an update on this shoes once I see an actual one.
     
  10. chogall

    chogall Senior member

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    My guess is some variations of leather tennis/bowling/casual shoes, i.e., Camper.

    Now you are making me thinking about the viability of JP bespoke in one Asia trip. Just have to layover Tokyo for a day each way.
     
    Last edited: Apr 16, 2013
  11. nutcracker

    nutcracker Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    I would say more JLP's Winner sneakers. The manager at JLP Jermyn St. store (Mr. Allen?) said in an interview that those Winner sneakers sell five times more in number than dress shoes.

    JLP Winner sneakers go for ¥126,000 yen in Japan. For that price, an MTO handsewn welted Guild sneakers for ¥130,000 seems like a better deal to me.
     
  12. chogall

    chogall Senior member

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    That's a much better example. I must have mentally blocks out all JL's sneaker offerings...
     
  13. chogall

    chogall Senior member

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    Question about Marquese, they said they worked for JL Paris but most of their other out working experiences were with the Brits? Were they with JLP RTW? Or they actually worked in the JL workshop in Paris??

    p.s., would it be safe to assume the Brit experienced makers are capable of handling transactions in English?
     
    Last edited: Apr 16, 2013
  14. nutcracker

    nutcracker Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    Mr. Kawaguchi apprenticed under Paul Wilson, a British bespoke maker who works for JLP's Bespoke (he also did work for Cleverley). Kawaguchi then worked as an outworker for various bespoke operations (Cleverley, G&G, Foster & Sons, Edward Green) for 5 years. Ever since returning to Japan in 2008, he continues to work as an outworker at the English makers' requests. I assume they ship materials across the continent quite frequently. That's why the output for Marquess is somewhat limited and slow. and yes, I confirmed that he understands English.

    So no I don't think he worked for or at JLP. But his mentor did/does, as far as I know.

    The other half of Marquess, his wife Yuriko, is also quite an accomplished shoemaker, also worked as an outworker in UK. She also worked for an orthopedic shoe manufacture before joining Marquess. She does the patterns, clicking and closing.
     
    Last edited: Apr 16, 2013
  15. chogall

    chogall Senior member

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    The same Paul Wilson that does JLP bespoke fitting in the US?

    The info is quite interesting and Marquese does make some amazingly done beveled and fiddleback waist!
     

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