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Japanese Shoes: Bespoke & RTW Super Thread

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by nutcracker, Apr 4, 2013.

  1. ntempleman

    ntempleman Senior member

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    Those weekend conferences are a hoot by all accounts, a few friends of mine go along most years.

    There's the Worshipful Company of Cordwainers too but it seems all they're interested in is the design side of things.
     
    1 person likes this.
  2. bengal-stripe

    bengal-stripe Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    There is also "The Worshipful Company of Pattenmakers"

    http://www.pattenmakers.co.uk/company.asp

    (For those not familiar with footwear history, Pattens are a kind of platform overshoes; an absolute necessity in the days when the pavement was slippery with the contents of chamber pots).

    They do organize an annual dinner, where the occasional shoemaker can be found:

    [​IMG]

    Jim McCormack surrounded by Caroline Groves (ladies' shoemaker) and her daughter.

    http://www.carolinegroves.co.uk/
     
    1 person likes this.
  3. nutcracker

    nutcracker Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    Japanese hollowed shoe tree prototype that I spotted today. Very nicely finished. European hornbeam.

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    3 people like this.
  4. Stefan88

    Stefan88 Senior member

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    Wow! Will ask for these with my next pair!
     
    1 person likes this.
  5. ThinkDerm

    ThinkDerm Senior member

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    Incredibly beautiful. How can we purchase?
     
  6. nutcracker

    nutcracker Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    I know several bespoke shoemakers that offer these exact trees now (they are made by the same Tokyo based lastmaker). These would probably cost some extra (for Clematis, these hollowed trees are 5000 yen extra vs regular trees), but well worth it!
     
  7. nutcracker

    nutcracker Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    Dropped by CLEMATIS for my chukka boots` first fitting

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    Great fitting. 2 trial fitting for boots at Clematis.

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    Sharkskin for my chukkas. Love the texture

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    Also getting these gorgeous custom hollowed trees
     
    2 people like this.
  8. ntempleman

    ntempleman Senior member

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    Nice bit of selvage on display, Japanese denim I presume? Is that a blue edge from PBJ? Look pretty new from the amount of indigo still there.
     
    Last edited: May 16, 2015
  9. nutcracker

    nutcracker Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    Haha, yes, Japanese demin. and yes, very new :lol:
     
  10. jerrybrowne

    jerrybrowne Senior member

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    Looking good. Any side views? Is the sharkskin supple?
     
  11. nutcracker

    nutcracker Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    [​IMG]
    The first trial shoes are made of grained leather.

    [​IMG]
    Will look more or less exactly this shape, with seamless heels

    Sharkskin feels really nice. I would have mistaken it as shrunken leather.
     
    1 person likes this.
  12. jerrybrowne

    jerrybrowne Senior member

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    We're having very similar chukkas made up! Mine will not have a lake and is being made in a smooth calf.

    What's attached to the bottom of your trial shoes? Can't tell if its leather or a big sheet of cork. Reminds me of George Castanza's "high jump" shoes from Seinfeld. :D
     
    Last edited: May 16, 2015
    1 person likes this.
  13. meister

    meister Senior member

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    Wonderful! Like a beautiful sculpture. I have some similar vintage ones I picked up but, as nice as they are, they are not sculpture.

    [​IMG]
     
    Last edited: May 16, 2015
    1 person likes this.
  14. nutcracker

    nutcracker Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    Nice!

    Haha, its just a big piece of sole leather. The 2nd trial will be made from the final upper leather (shark)
     
  15. ntempleman

    ntempleman Senior member

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    Jimmy makes the shot!
     
  16. mcl911

    mcl911 Senior member

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    Any recommendation for rtw under 150k in Tokyo? Don't think there will be enough time for bespoke fitting shoe etc since I am only stay for four days.

    I really love Yohei Fukuda's shoes, but my girlfriend is going to kill me if I order from him.
     
  17. Jacke

    Jacke Well-Known Member

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    If you go as cheap as possible at Hiroyuki-san you can get away with MTO shoes for 140k, but you have to wait approximate 6 months to receive them.
    http://hiroyanagimachi.com/en/images/order-system/order-lineup.pdf

    But it is hard to not go up in price. The price for my shoes did go up more then I expected but I can't wait until i receive them [​IMG]

    If you don't want to spend so much money I would really recommend Union Imperial. I have nothing bad to say about there Premium range. Great price for a great shoe. If I remember correct the price for the Premium range was 46k.
     
    Last edited: May 19, 2015
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  18. Journeyman

    Journeyman Senior member

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    Yes, Union Imperial sell good, made-in-Japan, ready-to-wear shoes for around JPY40 000 or so. From what I remember, quite a few of their models have closed-channel soles and flat, waxed laces, which you typically wouldn't see on shoes in that price range (at least, not English shoes). They've got a few lines - Prestige, Country, Premium and maybe one or two others.

    The same manufacturer also makes a line of shoes called "Soffice & Solid" which were featured in "Last" magazine and in the Rake magazine, too. They have some interesting designs.
     
    1 person likes this.
  19. HighToned

    HighToned Senior member

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  20. j ingevaldsson

    j ingevaldsson Senior member

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    Had the pleasure to meet Mr. Hiro Yanagimachi at Skomaker Dagestad in Oslo, Norway, yesterday, which he visited to have a fitting survey of his new last made for European and American customers. Hiro and the pattern maker and closer Nobuko who was with him were both very kind people, and the shoes were superb. In pics Hiros shoes can look a bit bulky to me, but in reality they are actually quite sleek and looked even nicer.

    The new last is longer than his normal japanese lasts, and with a tighter back part of the last. Hiro made an interesting comparison of feet and faces, where he meant that Japanese heads are round and the faces flat, while Europeans and Americans heads are oval and with much shape differences in the face. Feets are the same, Japanese feet are round and quite flat, while European and American feet are longer and with higher archs etc. It's of course a bit of a generalisation, but interesting take nonetheless.
    The new last worked very well for me (you can read why in an image caption below), and I'm leaning towards an order of an MTO of the same split toe model in the same color as the sample shoe pictured below but with a bevelled waist.

    First four sample shoes, these are made on his regular Japanese lasts. The split toe is 90% handmade with machine made sole stitch, the others are fully handmade:

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    Square waist:

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    Bevelled waist:

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    Fiddle waist:

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    A couple of close ups of the bevelled waist, which is a "real bevelled waist" with blind welt:

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    Hand stitched apron and split toe seam:

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    The closing was very neatly done:

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    Heels on the models with bevelled or fiddle back waist had tapered heels:

    [​IMG]


    These are sample shoes made on the new last for European and American customers. He used the measurements of Skomaker Dagestad employee Stefan Ravnanger as a base to create the last, and the funny thing is that he and I are more or less feet twins, so the last fits me very well. The arch support were better than any RTW/MTO shoe I've tried before:

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    Derby version of fitting shoe:

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    Hiro measuring a client:

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    Hiro takes A LOT of measurements, maybe 20-25 different ones, and all both with lose and tightened measurement tape. He has during the years come to realise that this is the way that works best for him to achieve as good fit as possible:

    [​IMG]


    For MTO shoes you can use different sock lining pieces to modify fit slightly:

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    Hiro and the pattern maker and closer Nobuko:

    [​IMG]


    Hiros shoes:

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    Nobukos shoes:

    [​IMG]


    And a bonus pic of Stefan Ravnangers bespoke pair from Marquess:

    [​IMG]


    .
     
    Last edited: Jun 6, 2015
    6 people like this.

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