Japanese Shoes: Bespoke & RTW Super Thread

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by nutcracker, Apr 4, 2013.

  1. nutcracker

    nutcracker Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    o.e. by Egawa Osamu: Full handmade MTO shoes by the former partner at Guild of Crafts.

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    Monkstraps with shoelaces. Adjusting tightness has never been easier

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    Wholecuts with slits. Makes me wanna smile....

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    Boots styled for an Edwardian gentleman
     


  2. meister

    meister Senior member

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    I don't know about the rest of you but I reckon this thread has sucked the shoe porn oxygen totally out of the footwear threads.

    Hence the name NUTCRACKER I suppose....:nodding:


    Isshi could chime in here with a pair of vintage Florsheims that are the best shoes in his collection (he reckons) and that is really saying something.
     
    Last edited: Apr 13, 2013


  3. meister

    meister Senior member

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    When I had my orthotics made I did a similar thing except that the plaster wrapping they use in Australia returns a full plaster cast of the foot - not a hollow imprint that is then filled with resin. Well at least that was what I thought. I have wondered whether the hard plaster cast could be then used as a model for MTO but obviously you need resin to create a mould that can be shaped exactly to the shape of the foot for last purposes.

    Makes me wonder whether the plaster full cast could be recast in resin?
     
    Last edited: Apr 13, 2013


  4. nutcracker

    nutcracker Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    geeez



    Are you thinking of making several sets (copies) of your own personal last, and use them to order MTO from various makers?

    The resin lasts made by Atsuta are lighter than wood or plastic ones, but he says they have no problem in rigidity/hardness. They could be used for subsequent orders (unless you want a new shape).
    btw Atsuta charges ¥30,000 for making the last.
     
    Last edited: Apr 13, 2013


  5. clee1982

    clee1982 Senior member

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    the software included dynamic stress analysis or just 3d model of the foot
     


  6. nutcracker

    nutcracker Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    Shoecare Tansu "Getabako" by Entoan

    Not exactly an Ephtee, but nevertheless a neat solution. I saw an actual one, I think they were MTO to your specification.

    I remember someone making an Ephtee style leather trunk, but this may be a more doable project for those weekend woodworkers out there

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    Last edited: Apr 14, 2013


  7. Fang66

    Fang66 Senior member

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    I was not aware that Shetland Fox was made by Regal, but in my opinion their Regal branded shoes at any price point are just riding on their former reputation.

    P.S. nutcracker can you recommend a good repair shop in Tokyo?
     


  8. Fang66

    Fang66 Senior member

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    Vintage being the operative word.
     


  9. nutcracker

    nutcracker Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    Hi Fang,

    Pretty much all reputable repair shops offer similar basic service (repair and shoeshine). Some offer specialised services like recoloring

    Union Works in Ginza and Naka-meguro area are probably the best known. They can even rebottom Bespoke shoes (handsewn of course)
    Brass is excellent if you live towards Setagaya area
    Rifare in Ebisu is also very reputable. I used to live nearby, and frequently visited them to chat. However, I find their toe-steel jobs a lil shoddy. They also operate the shoe repair booth at Shibuya Seibu Dept. store.
    BALL Works in Ginza is top notch but expensive. They're really good at re-coloring and crack-repairs.

    If you want English service, Spica in Azabu-juban specialises in taking foreign clients living nearby.

    For shoeshine, Brift H in Aoyama is the king. Hasegawa san is well known from his youtube clip. Shoeshine Walts in Akihabara is operated by Maestro Matsumuro, you can visit maid cafe's or massages while you're waiting.:lol:
    Shoeshine TOKYO in Shinbashi is also good. If you're lucky, you can have 'Shoeshiner Ken` work his magic

    BUT if you're just looking for a good, fast repair job, my personal favorite is RESH, they operate shoe repair salons at Mitsukoshi Ginza and Nihonbashi, of all places. :lol: I find their service very clean and very fast.

    hope I didn't confuse you. Let me know if you're looking for some specialised service. I can recommend specific stores for you :)
     


  10. Fang66

    Fang66 Senior member

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    Thanks a lot, you are definitely the shoe man of the moment. Are you Japanese?
     


  11. nutcracker

    nutcracker Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    haha I just know what's going on in my neck of the woods. and yes I am, but I'm also part Taiwanese. Let me know if you're looking for repair shops in Taipei :lol:
     


  12. Fang66

    Fang66 Senior member

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    Cheers
     


  13. nutcracker

    nutcracker Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    SAION MTO and Bespoke Shoes

    Had a chance to stroll around Ginza this weekend. I decided to drop by SAION and managed to snap a few photos of their bespoke and MTO shoes (with permission of course). Enjoy the pics!!


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    The MTO samples cabinet.

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    I think a number of you were interested in Saion MTO (Semi-Bespoke). They start from ¥126,000 (incl. tax) That is around $1280 in today's exchange. Lasts are customisable. Shoes are hand lasted and handsewn welted. Soles are machine stitched, the so called "9/10 handmade method".

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    Saion MTO. Very sleek profile.

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    Facing front.

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    Bevelled waist in burgundy. Very nice

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    Saion buckles MTO

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    In smart round toe.

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    Fiddle back waists cost a bit more since the soles have to be hand stitched (instead of machine). They really look like bespoke.

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    Other MTO samples

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    Boots look nice too!

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    The cabinet showcasing the ¥39,900 MTO shoes w/McKay construction. Limited to 6 models with 2 lasts to choose, but infinite leather combinations for no additional cost.

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    Saion Bespoke Sample. WOW! to the shape

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    Handsome face.

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    In tints of green

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    Beautiful sole. Not surprised by now.

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    Saion Bespoke sample. Black saddle.
     
    Last edited: Apr 14, 2013


  14. add911_11

    add911_11 Senior member

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    Those Saion shoes are really nice. My god.
     


  15. ThinkDerm

    ThinkDerm Senior member

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